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Christopher VaughnStrever




Location: San Antonio, TX
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PostPosted: Wed 02 Jul, 2008 7:52 am    Post subject: Historical Gambeson         Reply with quote

Well I find myself needing a Gambeson, just need one that I will get good use out of and I currently will have over 38 lbs in armour; of which this gambeson will have to take abuse from as well as provide a cushion between the chain mail and my skin (Previously I have used a thick shirt, ripped the sleeves off and folded the sleeves and then sew'd on the sleeves to the shoulders) I found this at Steel Mastery and was wondering if anyone has any knowledge of how well this holds up. Thanks for the help.

http://www.steel-mastery.com/index.php?&m...uct_id=403

There is also this Gambeson, though alot cheaper I can only fathom the less price is that this item is produced more.

http://www.steel-mastery.com/index.php?&m...uct_id=108

If you know; is the second cheaper Gambeson just as good as in terms of what I need? or is a 4th layer of wadding worth the extra charge to provide that much needed cushion

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Alessandro Fantucci




Location: Forlì - Italy
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PostPosted: Wed 02 Jul, 2008 11:51 am    Post subject: Re: Historical Gambeson         Reply with quote

Christopher VaughnStrever wrote:
Well I find myself needing a Gambeson, just need one that I will get good use out of and I currently will have over 38 lbs in armour; of which this gambeson will have to take abuse from as well as provide a cushion between the chain mail and my skin (Previously I have used a thick shirt, ripped the sleeves off and folded the sleeves and then sew'd on the sleeves to the shoulders) I found this at Steel Mastery and was wondering if anyone has any knowledge of how well this holds up. Thanks for the help.

http://www.steel-mastery.com/index.php?&m...uct_id=403

There is also this Gambeson, though alot cheaper I can only fathom the less price is that this item is produced more.

http://www.steel-mastery.com/index.php?&m...uct_id=108

If you know; is the second cheaper Gambeson just as good as in terms of what I need? or is a 4th layer of wadding worth the extra charge to provide that much needed cushion


Hi Big Grin

I'm Italian, and i've a Gambeson made in Italy.

Is price is 280€ but it's made to measures and with philologic material.

I've only this pictures Sad





see:
http://www.fabriarmorum.com/

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Razz

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James Barker




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PostPosted: Wed 02 Jul, 2008 12:56 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Quick note on terms: A gambeson is armor and goes over maille or is worn stand alone. An aketon goes under armor.



As to the steel mastery product I picked up one second had that did not fit so I sold it off but it was a real nice product. The linen was made of a good thick linen; it was cotton stuffed, and the workmanship was good (and I normally make my own stuff).

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Allen Andrews




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PostPosted: Wed 02 Jul, 2008 1:08 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Steel Mastery has been having some serious delivery issues of late. For more info read:

http://forums.armourarchive.org/phpBB2/viewto...highlight=

That being said I bought 2 of the standard gambesons(one med and one large) for the high school HEMA club, and they seem like a decent product. Sadly the students prefer to wear lacrosse safety gear for sparring. WTF?!

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Christopher VaughnStrever




Location: San Antonio, TX
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PostPosted: Wed 02 Jul, 2008 1:31 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I'm always learning (Love this place)

Concerning the Aketon, Alessandro Fantucci, the one you have looks great, I just wish I could read that web-site><

Allen, Wow! thanks a ton, sounds like steel mastery had their ducks in a row and are trying to get it back, therefore till they do; I will aviod a possible dissapointment, again thanks for the info.

Is there any knowledge of GDFBs' (Get dressed for Battle) Aketons? I see their items sold at a few different web sites.

I also have instruction's to make a Aketon, however I am a bit weary of making my own. I just don't know exactly what/where to get the best material to buy for such a project.

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PostPosted: Wed 02 Jul, 2008 2:01 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

James Barker wrote:
Quick note on terms: A gambeson is armor and goes over maille or is worn stand alone. An aketon goes under armor.

The terminology is not always this cut and dry and often depends on the source material one is reading.

One might check out our Spotlight Article regarding Quilted Armour Defenses of the High Middle Ages for a brief discussion of terminology.

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Greg Mele
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PostPosted: Wed 02 Jul, 2008 2:49 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

James,

James Barker wrote:
Quick note on terms: A gambeson is armor and goes over maille or is worn stand alone. An aketon goes under armor.


Except when it doesn't. Wink

You probably know this, but terminology is actually a lot more confused than that in period. We really have no clear idea of what the divisions between an aketon, gambeson and poirpoint where in period, and armour scholars have used them fairly interchangeably (sometimes idiosyncratically) for quite some time. What is interesting is that at some point, the SCA crowd settled upon the term gambeson, with those in the know referring to an "aketon" as a High Medieval padded garment, ala those in the Macjieowski Bible. (I forget, they may have been following Claude Blair's lead in that). Then a few years back, the reenactment community (mostly 14th and 15th c reenactors) decided that no, no, it is aketon throughout all periods, and the gambeson is the coat armour.

Hell, the curatorial community continues to argue over the extant garments - does Charles' pourpoint reflect a civilian version of a military garment? Should it be called by another name? Etc.

But really, we see so much historical blurring of the terms gambeson, aketon and pourpoint that as long as the people in the discussion know what they are referring to, I don't think we can crack the whip of standardization.

As a rule of thumb, I do think a gambeson is generally a fairly well-padded garment that may or may not be a defense in its own right. But saying more than that is perhaps pushing it.

We won't even get into terms like "lentner", "jupon/gypon", etc. Wink

Cheers,

Greg

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Alessandro Fantucci




Location: Forlì - Italy
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PostPosted: Wed 02 Jul, 2008 2:53 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Sorry...

I thought there was also the site in English Sad

my gambeson is very good piece, is maded with natural fibres and padding....

Important!! the sleeves must be shaped!!!

night Razz

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Ed Toton




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PostPosted: Wed 02 Jul, 2008 3:43 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Christopher VaughnStrever wrote:

Is there any knowledge of GDFBs' (Get dressed for Battle) Aketons? I see their items sold at a few different web sites.


I've briefly handled one. It's fairly heavy, thick, and stiff (good armor, IMHO). It seemed generously sized. The thing that impressed me was the thinner patches on the inside of the elbow to allow easy flexing. That was a very nicely done feature.

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Jean-Carle Hudon




Location: Montreal,Canada
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PostPosted: Wed 02 Jul, 2008 4:14 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

For De Joinville, who accompanied Saint Louis on his crusade and lived to write about it, so as contemporary as one can get, the ''gambison'' was the first thing a man would throw on in a hurry while under surprise attack from the saracens, there was no time to put on the mail, so just the padded garment had to do. There are many such references and Viollet Le Duc gives a few. To french speaking people there is no confusion about what a gambeson is and what purpose it serves, though there was a short lived debate about wearing the padded garment over the mail instead of under, again contemporary accounts, such as that by De Joinville, settled that dispute for most of us. The other terms aketon and pourpoint are later developments. You will also see justaucorps, which is descriptive of a tight fitting shorter garment which seems to be what some are referring to as ''pierpoint''. The ''pourpoint'' in french is mainly a civilian garment, though there certainly were padded versions for use under armor, with lots of eyelets to attach things, the first being the "chausses'', they had to be tied to something or other.
I don't know how modern students of armor have come to make what they feel are clear cut distinctions with what Greg referred to as the ''whip of standardization'', but my two cents worth would be to be carefull, especially as there are so many languages which use the same terms, and they have not felt the whip, and just keep on using the words according to their same understanding of them over the course of the last seven, eight or ten centuries.
For me gambesons came in different shapes and sizes and were worn under the mail coat ( cotte de mailles),until such time as they morphed into something else as outer armor, plate or coats of plates, rendered quasi obsolete the need for thicker padding. With a better shell than mail available, the layer closest to the skin didn't need to serve the same purpose as the earlier type of gambeson, so it could be 'justaucorps', tighter to the body. There are certainly examples of padded garments over mail, but who can say what was beneath the mail??Sometimes a guy might just feel that he needs that extra padding..

Cheers,
Jean-Carle

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Greg Mele
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PostPosted: Wed 02 Jul, 2008 4:43 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Jean-Carle Hudon wrote:
There are certainly examples of padded garments over mail, but who can say what was beneath the mail??Sometimes a guy might just feel that he needs that extra padding..


The 13th century King's Mirror saw the padded coat armour as just one additional layer of padding - there was still a gambeson beneath the mail:

The rider himself should be equipped in this wise: he should wear good soft breeches made of soft and thoroughly blackened linen cloth, which should reach up to the belt; outside these, good mail hose which should come up high enough to be girded on with a double strap; over these he must have good trousers made of linen cloth of the sort that I have already described; finally, over these he should have good knee-pieces made of thick iron and rivets hard as steel. Above and next to the body he should Wear a soft gambison, which need not come lower than to the middle of, the thigh.Over this he must have a strong breastplate made of good iron covering the body from the nipples to the trousers belt; outside this, a well-made hauberk and over the hauberk a firm gambison made in the manner which I have already described but without sleeves. He must have a dirk § and two swords, one girded on and another hanging from the pommel of the saddle. On his head he must have a dependable helmet made of good steel and provided with a visor. He must also have a strong, thick shield fastened to a durable shoulder belt and, in addition, a good sharp spear with a firm shaft and pointed with fine steel. Now it seems needless to speak further about the equipment of men who fight on horseback; there are, however, other weapons which a mounted warrior may use, if he wishes; among these are the "horn bow" and the weaker crossbow, which a man can easily draw even when on horseback, and certain other weapons, too, if he should want them.

I do not know what the precise word is that is being translated as "gambeson".

Greg[/quote]

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Alessandro Fantucci




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PostPosted: Wed 02 Jul, 2008 10:07 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

"Gambeson" is "Gambeson"

can't be translated..French or Belgian name for a particular type of protection.

Aketon is slightly different in shape and thikness.

In Italy in use the "Farsetto D'arme", especially in the central-south.

An example: The word "Computer" is not translated (only in Frace call it "Calculator")

forget my bad English

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Randall Moffett




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PostPosted: Wed 02 Jul, 2008 10:53 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Jean-Carle,

I thin Greg's earlier post regaring the two terms is about how many look at it. At least in England the term aketon is quite old. I do not have access to any of the dictionaries that might have the earliest uses at hand but I assume it as old or nearly as old as gambeson. David Nicolle has the idea of concurrent uses that may or may not be right. Having most of my background in English sources I cannot say but in general terms but it seems the terms are used interchangeably fairly often, at least by the period I study late 13th on into the 15th. The few French inventories (or men living in France) I have read usually use one over the other. Blair's section on these terms is by fair the best I have read on the subject as he was familiar with French sources and most of western European ones.

Alessandro and Greg,

It depends which King's Mirror we are talking about as there are many Mirrors in existence. There is a Scandinavian, I think Norwegian one that may be written in their tongue and would likely not use gambeson as they have their own words for padded armour.

Blair in his book state that the terms aketon and gambeson were often used for the same garment. He only sets them apart in his book for simplicity one being outside the other inside. Spending the time I do reading old MS and other accounts I agree. I have seen loads of aketons worn over armour and under and the same for gambeson for the period. It is more a modern assumption that in period they were as clear cut over all. I do not doubt that perhaps one over and under were of perhaps different thickness but to me that'd be impossible to prove unless one produced an example of a real medieval aketon or gambeson or a detailed account with all the design and weight involved.


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Johan S. Moen




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PostPosted: Thu 03 Jul, 2008 1:41 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Greg Mele wrote:


I do not know what the precise word is that is being translated as "gambeson".

Greg


The word in the Norwegian version is "vapntræiu" or "våpentrøye"(modern Norwegian). An acceptable translation would be "arming shirt" if one were to translate it directly. I've seen some english translations use "arming shirt".

Johan Schubert Moen
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Jason G. Smith




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PostPosted: Thu 03 Jul, 2008 6:51 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Alessandro Fantucci wrote:
"Gambeson" is "Gambeson"

can't be translated..French or Belgian name for a particular type of protection.

Aketon is slightly different in shape and thikness.

In Italy in use the "Farsetto D'arme", especially in the central-south.

An example: The word "Computer" is not translated (only in Frace call it "Calculator")

forget my bad English

By by
Razz


Well, actually, a gambeson is "un gambison." As for computers, they're called "ordinateurs." The French speak notoriously horrible French. Happy

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James Barker




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PostPosted: Thu 03 Jul, 2008 9:26 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Nathan Robinson wrote:
James Barker wrote:
Quick note on terms: A gambeson is armor and goes over maille or is worn stand alone. An aketon goes under armor.


The terminology is not always this cut and dry and often depends on the source material one is reading.

One might check out our Spotlight Article regarding Quilted Armour Defenses of the High Middle Ages for a brief discussion of terminology.


True it is not always cut and dry but as the article says:

Quote:
Many modern reenactors and some historians, including Claude Blair and David Edge, use these terms to refer to different uses of the same type of garment: the aketon is generally discussed as the quilted defense worn under armour (plate or mail), and the gambeson as the quilted garment worn over the armour.
Wink

In the SCA the term gambeson is almost always used as undergarment going against the scholars on armor.

I would make on quick criticism of Alexi's article and that where he says the Black Prince garment and the Charles VI garments are stuffed with wool; that is a misunderstanding of the term cotton-wool. Cotton-wool is raw cotton; I don't know of any surviving quilted armor or helm liner stuffed with wool.

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Greg Mele
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PostPosted: Thu 03 Jul, 2008 10:18 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Johan S. Moen wrote:

The word in the Norwegian version is "vapntræiu" or "våpentrøye"(modern Norwegian). An acceptable translation would be "arming shirt" if one were to translate it directly. I've seen some english translations use "arming shirt".

Johan Schubert Moen


Thanks!

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Greg Mele
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PostPosted: Thu 03 Jul, 2008 10:21 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Randall Moffett wrote:

It depends which King's Mirror we are talking about as there are many Mirrors in existence. There is a Scandinavian, I think Norwegian one that may be written in their tongue and would likely not use gambeson as they have their own words for padded armour.


It is the Norwegian. But my point in the quote was that the same term was being used for the garment under the armour, as over, and for that matter, was being compared to the padded garment worn by the horse under its own mail.

Again, I'm with Blair on this - I think it is modern conceit to try and say one is an over and one an under garment.

Greg Mele
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Randall Moffett




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PostPosted: Thu 03 Jul, 2008 10:31 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Greg,

I know I was just commenting on a comment that the word gambeson would remain unchanged as in this version I knew it was not the same as they have a wide array of padded armour words.

RPM
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