[M. Eversberg II]

I've a pair of greaves and rarebrace (forearm only; right term?) that have had the anti-rust stuff disturbed by (dumb) people who like to fondle my things without asking. As such, a few spots have some rust on them. While I can remove the rust with Metal Glo, what is recommended to prevent rust in the future?

M.

[D. Austin]

I would suggest Renaissance Wax. Other things will do, such as oil or WD-40 but they have their own issues. Oil tends to feel oily (surprise, surprise) and I don't like the smell of WD-40. It's fine for tools but not for something I'd wear.

[Chad Arnow]

I know folks who use Turtle Wax on armour. Actually, I know someone who uses car wax on antique arms and armour.

[P. Cha]

Wax is pretty resiliant vs touchy touchy. Oil is good because it makes them wash their hands so you can see who touched your stuff. WD-40 is nigh useless as it evaporates pretty dang quickly and all it does is displace water anyways...not so much a protectant. Personally I say go with an electric fence...teach others to go and touch your stuff without asking .

[Sean Smith]

Turtle Wax works wonderfully, until you finally have to get it off. Then it is a royal pain.

[Jean Thibodeau]

[D. Austin]

A cheaper alternative to the Ren Wax is the type of moncrystalline wax used in lost wax casting. This can probably be sourced from your local jewellers suppliers. I have also used beeswax in the past to good effect. It can be slightly more difficult to apply though as it is a solid and really needs to be applied to hot metal and polished well.

Somewhere at home I have a bottle of liquid beeswax which should also do the trick but I've only tried it on leather and I'm not sure what they put in it to liquefy it.

[Addison C. de Lisle]

You could try Tuf-Cloth. It's what I use on my swords, so I assume it'd work well on armor as well. You rub it on, wait a minute, and rub it off. It leaves the metal dry to the touch, and seems to be quite effective. They also have a marine version (what I use due to my relative proximity to salt water, and just in case).

http://www.sentrysolutions.com/TufClothkew.shtml

[Adam S.]

[Lawrence Parramore]

Hi, most spray wax for furniture is 'Micro crystalline' I believe, so easy to get hold of, you can also get it with beeswax, in the UK at least.

The only issue is to clean and dry everything properly as after waxing it can still be working away underneath.

The wax will get scratched ofcourse which means there is always a need to maintain your gear.

Are there not some lacquers or varnishes nowadays that would be good for this?

[Allen Andrews]

Since being a GM in the USCG I have used Breakfree CLP. I have also used (and use) the product Addison mentioned, Marine Tufcloth. I used to carry a folding knife with a 52100 blade, and the Tufcloth worked very well. I have never tried wax, but I think especially with armor pieces it sounds like good route to go. I like the idea of Turtle Wax

[M. Eversberg II]

How about silicone spray? I used it on my sword (spray on, wait, wipe off) and it seemed to have worked, but people are smart enough not to go and finger sharp objects.

M.

[Ed Toton]

I've used a variety of things. I'll agree that WD-40 is pretty useless as protection against rust since it evaporates away. Mineral oil works well, but doesn't always apply smoothly. Same with gun oil. Functional but not as pretty. RenWax works well, but also contains a mild polishing agent, which you may not want. It's also more expensive than Turtle Wax, which works great. Then again RenWax is thicker/harder wax, and may not wipe off as easily from light handling.

[Lin Robinson]

I have tried a sign that reads "$25 SERVICE FEE CHARGED FOR EACH RUSTY FINGERPRINT FOUND ON MY BLADES". It does deter some but there are still the hardheads who will pick up an oiled blade and run their fingers down the edge to see if it is sharp!

[Lawrence Parramore]

Only half serious, what about a grumpy dog, should do the trick only it is more expensive than wax, but may come in useful for other things, like guarding your home?

Catch

[Li Jin]

Good morning sir

I use metal Glo to clean off the rust on the pommel of a sword i own, and it worked very well. But in future
prevent rusting, I would say the Renaissance wax work very well. So now I'm worried about storing my sword in a leather scabbard for about 3 to 4 weeks

[Gary A. Chelette]

I though stuff like car wax (Turtle Wax) would leave a discoloration as most have a color base.
Even old floor wax (Johnsons) yellows with age.



Even Topcoate will leave a white powder residue on metal. T-9 is too expensive and doesn't do much better.

[Francisco Simões]

Hello
For how long do you say that Renaissance wax would protect a wall hanging sword? And what would you recomend to take it off for making a new wax coat? (just plain scotchbright???)
Godspeed

[Gary A. Chelette]

I don't know about RenWax, but most other waxes can be removed with a little soap and Ammonia.

[Ed Toton]

RenWax will protect if for a long time with no handling. I don't have a real good estimate though. If you handle it more, it needs more care, obviously. I've found I can leave swords sitting out for a couple of years if they're not handled, using mineral oil or renwax. Trying to do this with WD-40 has resulted in rust spots.

For cleaning it off to re-apply, I've actually had good success with liquid dish soap and some warm water. As long as you dry it thoroughly and re-apply the wax or oil, this is not a problem.