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Forum Index > Off-topic Talk > Shorten Viking sword? Reply to topic
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Joel Lombard





Joined: 11 Jul 2018

Posts: 42

PostPosted: Thu 30 Aug, 2018 12:52 pm    Post subject: Shorten Viking sword?         Reply with quote

What do you think about shorten this viking sword it¨s 98cm
I want it 75cm 78cm

But what to do with the blodgrove?

Any one know seller short viking svord? around 200$



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Joel Lombard





Joined: 11 Jul 2018

Posts: 42

PostPosted: Thu 30 Aug, 2018 4:53 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

It is my first sword didn't realize they was so long.
Any suggestion?
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Ian Hutchison




Location: Louisiana / Nordrhein-Westholland
Joined: 27 Nov 2007

Posts: 520

PostPosted: Thu 30 Aug, 2018 8:31 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

You could shorten it. There are historical examples of swords which have been shortened and which have been re-pointed after breaking. The fuller should not be much of a problem since the type X is a cutting blade anyway.
'We are told that the pen is mightier than the sword, but I know which of these weapons I would choose.' - Adrian Carton de Wiart
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Jean Thibodeau




Location: Montreal,Quebec,Canada
Joined: 15 Mar 2004
Likes: 50 pages
Reading list: 1 book

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Posts: 8,208

PostPosted: Thu 30 Aug, 2018 10:10 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Instead of cutting the point to shorten the sword to make it shorter why not work in reverse, remove the hilt furniture and handle, recut on the handle side.

Cut of the tang and regrind the blade into a new tang that can fit into the guard, remount the handle if still intact or make a new handle, then the pommel and re-peen.

If the blade is very very hard heat the tang to blue, wrap the blade with wet cloth so as to not soften the blade past the new blade shoulders. ( Heating to blue should soften the new tang so that it wont be brittle, but stop as soon as it starts to turn blue or stop before it turns blue and is still straw colour nearer to the blade shoulders ? )

Now this may be more difficult to do than simply cutting the blade short at the tip end.

Now some of the professionals on this site may add some advice about how to do the above better than I can as I'm mostly thinking out loud how I might do it as I've not done such a job myself to shorten a blade ..... so it's just a suggestion.

To do any of this it takes a steady hand on the sword using a belt sander to reprofile the tang, or a steady hand using an angle grinder with the blade clamped in a vice: If you have never done this or not have the skills to do this it might be a good idea to practice using a bar of mild steel before trying to do it on the sword: I have some skill with power tools but I personally would find it challenging.

You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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B Beythien




Location: Germany
Joined: 15 Jul 2018

Posts: 2

PostPosted: Fri 31 Aug, 2018 3:13 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hi everybody,
I was once planning to do what you just proposed, Jean. Then i noticed to shorten a fullered blade via tang will most likely create a weak point, since you will end up having a very thin part close to the guard. As far as i know, in historical pieces the fuller usually does not go too far up/down the tang.

infar wigandun
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Joel Lombard





Joined: 11 Jul 2018

Posts: 42

PostPosted: Fri 31 Aug, 2018 8:10 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Ian Hutchison wrote:
You could shorten it. There are historical examples of swords which have been shortened and which have been re-pointed after breaking. The fuller should not be much of a problem since the type X is a cutting blade anyway.


Hi what do you mean the blade is a sparring weapon.
Think i just cut it and sand out the fuller.
It¨s blunt i mean.

Jean Thibodeau think that will be to complicated.
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Jean Thibodeau




Location: Montreal,Quebec,Canada
Joined: 15 Mar 2004
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PostPosted: Fri 31 Aug, 2018 10:40 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

B Beythien wrote:
Hi everybody,
I was once planning to do what you just proposed, Jean. Then i noticed to shorten a fullered blade via tang will most likely create a weak point, since you will end up having a very thin part close to the guard. As far as i know, in historical pieces the fuller usually does not go too far up/down the tang.


Good point about the fuller, and more so if the fuller is very wide, a narrow fuller and a wide at the sword's shoulder tang could still have the sides of the tang at the maximum thickness of the blade on each side of the fuller.

Some fullers do continue into the tang but the tangs do have to be wider than the fullers to not create a too thin tang as you mention.

And yes the type of alterations I suggested is not for a beginner and very dependent on the blade type, a diamond shape blade with a thick center ridge would work for this kind of alterations.

You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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Joel Lombard





Joined: 11 Jul 2018

Posts: 42

PostPosted: Mon 03 Sep, 2018 3:58 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

What Should i do with the fuller. If i cut the blade at middle?
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Lloyd Winter




Location: Los Angeles
Joined: 27 Aug 2011

Posts: 176

PostPosted: Mon 03 Sep, 2018 7:11 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

If you cut the blade in the middle you are going to have to reprofile the tip. If you’re good with a grinder, or one of your friends is, you can carefully blend the fuller into the new tip without trashing the heat treat. It’s probably always going to look like a post-forging alteration.. I have a Katz balger that used to be a claymor until the owner of said claymor broke it

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DBZ7_b_EvLR07D_cQ0gDubach4zyxqVa
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Joel Lombard





Joined: 11 Jul 2018

Posts: 42

PostPosted: Mon 03 Sep, 2018 10:51 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Lloyd Winter wrote:
If you cut the blade in the middle you are going to have to reprofile the tip. If you’re good with a grinder, or one of your friends is, you can carefully blend the fuller into the new tip without trashing the heat treat. It’s probably always going to look like a post-forging alteration.. I have a Katz balger that used to be a claymor until the owner of said claymor broke it

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DBZ7_b_EvLR07D_cQ0gDubach4zyxqVa


Thanks!
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Joel Lombard





Joined: 11 Jul 2018

Posts: 42

PostPosted: Thu 06 Sep, 2018 7:54 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hi what do you Think i fint want to thin out the fuller it is get to tin dangerus

Vant post the image



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Joel Lombard





Joined: 11 Jul 2018

Posts: 42

PostPosted: Thu 06 Sep, 2018 10:13 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Do you trust in reactment or dont do it? To dangerus?
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Baard H




Location: Norway
Joined: 13 Mar 2013

Posts: 102

PostPosted: Fri 07 Sep, 2018 2:30 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Yes, we thrust in reenactment, although it might depend on the rules of the local group. Are you a member of a group or do you plan to join one? Different groups may have variations on their rules. But generally a 2mm edge with a point rounded like a coin is considered safe.

Question though, why do you want to shorten the blade? 98 cm is probably about the most common length on most single handed swords I've dealt with, if you shorten it you'll be at a severe disadvantage meeting a majority of reenactors.

At kveldi skal dag leyfa,
konu, er brennd er,
mæki, er reyndr er,
mey, er gefin er,
ís, er yfir kemr,
öl, er drukkit er.
-Hávamál, vísa 81
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Joel Lombard





Joined: 11 Jul 2018

Posts: 42

PostPosted: Sat 08 Sep, 2018 10:22 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Baard H wrote:
Yes, we thrust in reenactment, although it might depend on the rules of the local group. Are you a member of a group or do you plan to join one? Different groups may have variations on their rules. But generally a 2mm edge with a point rounded like a coin is considered safe.

Question though, why do you want to shorten the blade? 98 cm is probably about the most common length on most single handed swords I've dealt with, if you shorten it you'll be at a severe disadvantage meeting a majority of reenactors.

No have not find a Group.
Tought i be more safe with short sword. It feel to havy. Oh god i cant spell.
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Joel Lombard





Joined: 11 Jul 2018

Posts: 42

PostPosted: Sun 16 Sep, 2018 8:23 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

It got perfect not so clumpsy anymore it feels perfect


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Baard H




Location: Norway
Joined: 13 Mar 2013

Posts: 102

PostPosted: Thu 20 Sep, 2018 9:50 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

If it was too heavy, grinding off excess weight without taking down the length would have been better, although it would require a lot of skill and/or luck to not screw it up.
At kveldi skal dag leyfa,
konu, er brennd er,
mæki, er reyndr er,
mey, er gefin er,
ís, er yfir kemr,
öl, er drukkit er.
-Hávamál, vísa 81
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Joel Lombard





Joined: 11 Jul 2018

Posts: 42

PostPosted: Sat 22 Sep, 2018 11:19 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Baard H wrote:
If it was too heavy, grinding off excess weight without taking down the length would have been better, although it would require a lot of skill and/or luck to not screw it up.
no think its get to dangerous thin it don't get safe two mm if the fuller is gone
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Baard H




Location: Norway
Joined: 13 Mar 2013

Posts: 102

PostPosted: Sun 07 Oct, 2018 11:36 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Yes you need to keep the edge 2mm, but you don't thake away the mass there. If you take mass away you're usually taking it from the thick parts of the center.
At kveldi skal dag leyfa,
konu, er brennd er,
mæki, er reyndr er,
mey, er gefin er,
ís, er yfir kemr,
öl, er drukkit er.
-Hávamál, vísa 81
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