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Jess Rozek




Location: Burlington, VT
Joined: 23 Mar 2010

Posts: 30

PostPosted: Mon 18 Jul, 2011 4:41 pm    Post subject: Gambeson elbows         Reply with quote

So, I recently finished a gambeson and it's great. My only problem is the sleeves. The bunching in the elbow is so tight I can barely hold an ochs position. Sewers of gambesons, enlighten me: how do I gusset or cut holes in the sleeves without ruining the whole thing?
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Scott Hrouda




Location: Minnesota, USA
Joined: 17 Nov 2006
Likes: 15 pages
Reading list: 87 books

Posts: 643

PostPosted: Mon 18 Jul, 2011 5:13 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Jess, is your sleeve seam along the inside of your arm or the outside?
...and that, my liege, is how we know the Earth to be banana shaped. - Sir Bedevere
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Ian S LaSpina




Location: Virginia, US
Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: Mon 18 Jul, 2011 5:46 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I've seen a lot of reproduction garments address this by constructing the sleeve to be pre-flexed at the elbow. Here's a photo of my gambeson (revival clothing's linen gambeson) elbow in it's natural state. The elbow is naturally in a pre-bent position. It doesn't bunch up when bringing a sword up in to ochs.


 Attachment: 180.76 KB
gambeson elbow.jpg


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Jess Rozek




Location: Burlington, VT
Joined: 23 Mar 2010

Posts: 30

PostPosted: Mon 18 Jul, 2011 7:38 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Scott, the seam is underneath my arm.

Ian, unfortunately I'm not that good of a seamstress and I have no idea how to pre-flex the elbow especially now that it's done Big Grin

My main worry is that if I flip the whole thing inside out to cut away at the elbow that I'm gonna cut the wrong side of the elbow...
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Christopher Treichel




Location: Metro D.C.
Joined: 14 Jan 2010

Posts: 268

PostPosted: Mon 18 Jul, 2011 8:19 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

go to your local fabric store and get a little packet of blue and white chalk.... draw on fabric while wearing it... so you don't cut in the wrong way... remember to leave seam allowance...
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Mikael Ranelius




Location: Sweden
Joined: 06 Mar 2007

Posts: 252

PostPosted: Tue 19 Jul, 2011 12:40 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

My new gambeson, which I'm currently working on, will be cut at the elbow similar to the Charles de Blois-garment which has the arm pre-bent. Also, there should be little or no padding at the bend of the arm wether or not the arm is cut in one piece.
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Scott Hrouda




Location: Minnesota, USA
Joined: 17 Nov 2006
Likes: 15 pages
Reading list: 87 books

Posts: 643

PostPosted: Tue 19 Jul, 2011 6:18 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Ian's picture is worth a thousand words. Mikael and Christopher offered good advice, especially this quote:

Mikael wrote:
...there should be little or no padding at the bend of the arm...

It took making two gambesons for me to figure this out. Blush

With the seam on the bottom of the arm, you should be able to open it up and insert a piece to give you the "pre-bent" appearance.

...and that, my liege, is how we know the Earth to be banana shaped. - Sir Bedevere
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