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Jess Rozek
Location: Burlington, VT Joined: 23 Mar 2010
Posts: 30
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 Posted: Mon 18 Jul, 2011 4:41 pm Post subject: Gambeson elbows |
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So, I recently finished a gambeson and it's great. My only problem is the sleeves. The bunching in the elbow is so tight I can barely hold an ochs position. Sewers of gambesons, enlighten me: how do I gusset or cut holes in the sleeves without ruining the whole thing?
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Scott Hrouda
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| Posted: Mon 18 Jul, 2011 5:13 pm Post subject: |
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Jess, is your sleeve seam along the inside of your arm or the outside?
...and that, my liege, is how we know the Earth to be banana shaped. - Sir Bedevere
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Ian S LaSpina
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| Posted: Mon 18 Jul, 2011 5:46 pm Post subject: |
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I've seen a lot of reproduction garments address this by constructing the sleeve to be pre-flexed at the elbow. Here's a photo of my gambeson (revival clothing's linen gambeson) elbow in it's natural state. The elbow is naturally in a pre-bent position. It doesn't bunch up when bringing a sword up in to ochs.
 Attachment: 180.76 KB
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Jess Rozek
Location: Burlington, VT Joined: 23 Mar 2010
Posts: 30
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| Posted: Mon 18 Jul, 2011 7:38 pm Post subject: |
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Scott, the seam is underneath my arm.
Ian, unfortunately I'm not that good of a seamstress and I have no idea how to pre-flex the elbow especially now that it's done 
My main worry is that if I flip the whole thing inside out to cut away at the elbow that I'm gonna cut the wrong side of the elbow...
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Christopher Treichel
Location: Metro D.C. Joined: 14 Jan 2010
Posts: 268
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| Posted: Mon 18 Jul, 2011 8:19 pm Post subject: |
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go to your local fabric store and get a little packet of blue and white chalk.... draw on fabric while wearing it... so you don't cut in the wrong way... remember to leave seam allowance...
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Mikael Ranelius
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| Posted: Tue 19 Jul, 2011 12:40 am Post subject: |
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My new gambeson, which I'm currently working on, will be cut at the elbow similar to the Charles de Blois-garment which has the arm pre-bent. Also, there should be little or no padding at the bend of the arm wether or not the arm is cut in one piece.
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Scott Hrouda
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| Posted: Tue 19 Jul, 2011 6:18 am Post subject: |
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Ian's picture is worth a thousand words. Mikael and Christopher offered good advice, especially this quote:
| Mikael wrote: | | ...there should be little or no padding at the bend of the arm... |
It took making two gambesons for me to figure this out. 
With the seam on the bottom of the arm, you should be able to open it up and insert a piece to give you the "pre-bent" appearance.
...and that, my liege, is how we know the Earth to be banana shaped. - Sir Bedevere
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This is a standard topic