| Author |
Message |
Craig Peters
|
 Posted: Fri 30 Jun, 2006 6:01 pm Post subject: Attaching Shield Straps |
 |
|
|
How should shield straps be properly affixed to a wooden shield? It looks like Patrick Kelly's shield from Mercenary's Tailor may have had the straps held in place with rivets, but I'm not sure. Any clarification on the issue would be most appreciated.
|
|
  |
 |
Chuck Russell
|
| Posted: Fri 30 Jun, 2006 6:06 pm Post subject: |
|
|
either or.
if you use bolts and nuts, peen the bolt down over the nut head.
long nails work nice too. especially if they can be clinched.
|
|
  |
|
|
Allan Senefelder
Industry Professional
|
| Posted: Fri 30 Jun, 2006 6:53 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
I was just gonna say what Chuck said. At one point I owned an early mid 18th century Scottish targe that had that cinched nayles to hold then strapping in place.
|
|
 |
|
|
Paul Mullins
|
| Posted: Mon 03 Jul, 2006 5:13 am Post subject: |
|
|
|
i have made somewhere around 8 shields from different eras. The most common way of attaching strapping (sp) that I have seen on original medieval shields was with clinch nails, and then with rivets using square washers.
|
|
 |
|
Steven H
|
| Posted: Mon 03 Jul, 2006 10:57 am Post subject: |
|
|
|
What is "clinching" nails?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Allan Senefelder
Industry Professional
|
| Posted: Mon 03 Jul, 2006 11:23 am Post subject: |
|
|
|
Pound the nayle in, there will be some of the shanke protruding from the front, hammer it over(breaking at a right angle) into the face of the shield, this locks the nayle in place and therefore the strap.
|
|
|
|
|
Jean Thibodeau
|
| Posted: Mon 03 Jul, 2006 11:36 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Allan Senefelder wrote: | | Pound the nayle in, there will be some of the shanke protruding from the front, hammer it over(breaking at a right angle) into the face of the shield, this locks the nayle in place and therefore the strap. |
Fairly stout nails I would imagine ? If nails of small diameter were used would tearing of the leather be more likely to happen than with a thicker nail ? Would period nails be mostly of square or rectangular section and would that be an advantage holding down the leather ?
You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Allan Senefelder
Industry Professional
|
| Posted: Mon 03 Jul, 2006 11:48 am Post subject: |
|
|
|
The 18th century Scottish targe I used to own had nayles with rather large heads closer to roofing nayles in size. I don't know what the shanks were shaped like ,none of the nayle shanks were exposed. Square nayles were common for carpentry but I don't know if this carried over to shield manufacture or not.
|
|
|
|
|
Jean Thibodeau
|
| Posted: Mon 03 Jul, 2006 1:50 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Allan Senefelder wrote: | | The 18th century Scottish targe I used to own had nayles with rather large heads closer to roofing nayles in size. I don't know what the shanks were shaped like ,none of the nayle shanks were exposed. Square nayles were common for carpentry but I don't know if this carried over to shield manufacture or not. |
Neither do I but I was thinking that hand made forged nails would tend to being less than perfectly round and might lie flatter when hammered down and be an advantage over a round nail ?
I would have thought that some sort of washer might be better even with a nail as opposed to a bolt ?
You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
|
|
|
|
|
|
W. R. Reynolds
Location: Ramona, CA Joined: 07 Dec 2004
Posts: 123
|
| Posted: Mon 03 Jul, 2006 7:03 pm Post subject: |
|
|
If you decide to use clinch nails you can get them from Van Dyke's Restorers. I have been using them to attach period hardware to chests.
www.vandykes.com
Bill
"No matter who wins the rat race.......they are still a rat."
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
This is a standard topic