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Eric McHugh
Industry Professional
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 Posted: Fri 12 May, 2006 2:00 pm Post subject: Small Viking with Bearded Axe |
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I just completed a bearded axe for Andy Bain. Here are a few pictures. This is based on my research at the National Museum in Denmark. That is my boy Nathan (6) who is holding it. He is hopelessly in love with this stuff...God help him.
The axe was constructed in a traditional manner. A mild steel eye socket was forge welded to a high carbon edge. I then differentially hardened the blade. The edge is 56-57 Rc and the body is soft. It doesn't look it, but it is a real monster. Nearly 4 pound total. In testing, it chopped through large pieces of wood with ease. The haft is made of oak.
I will have another one of these made in a few weeks if anyone is interested. Contact me via PM or ericmycue@verizon.net.
Find me on Facebook, or check out my blog. Contact me at eric@crownforge.net or ericmycue374@comcast.net if you want to talk about a commission or discuss an available piece.
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Bill Grandy
myArmoury Team
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| Posted: Fri 12 May, 2006 2:10 pm Post subject: |
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Awesome, Eric! Hey, do you happen to have any pictures of the original?
HistoricalHandcrafts.com
-Inspired by History, Crafted by Hand
"For practice is better than artfulness. Your exercise can do well without artfulness, but artfulness is not much good without the exercise.” -anonymous 15th century fencing master, MS 3227a
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Martin Wallgren
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| Posted: Fri 12 May, 2006 2:16 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah!
Nice !!!
Swordsman, Archer and Dad
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Nathan Robinson
myArmoury Admin
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Greyson Brown
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| Posted: Fri 12 May, 2006 2:49 pm Post subject: |
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That's a great looking axe, Eric. It looks like it's a really handy size, too.
| Eric McHugh wrote: | | I will have another one of these made in a few weeks if anyone is interested. |
So we have to arm-wrestle Nathan (pick one, it probably doesn't matter), and then what else? 
-Grey
"So long as I can keep the path of honor I am well content."
-Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, The White Company
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Jean Thibodeau
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| Posted: Fri 12 May, 2006 4:58 pm Post subject: |
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Nice looking axe and maybe you could get your son a nice Hauberk, shield and Spangenhelm in his size to go along with it. 
I'm sure he would like the idea. 
You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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Joseph C.
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| Posted: Fri 12 May, 2006 8:03 pm Post subject: |
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That is a nice looking axe! There are not enough reproductions like that around.
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B. Stark
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Fri 12 May, 2006 10:33 pm Post subject: |
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I'm liking the way these are turning out. Excellent work.
"Wyrd bi∂ ful aræd"
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Patrik Erik Lars Lindblom
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| Posted: Sat 13 May, 2006 1:00 am Post subject: |
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 Yeah!
Love it and Hugg is his name 
Frid o Fröjd!
Patrik
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Eric McHugh
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Sat 13 May, 2006 7:23 am Post subject: |
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Thank you one and all.
Here is a picture of the original I used. I made the langets more pointed on this one because I wasn't sure if people were ready for the rounded style. There are examples of both styles, but the pointed ones seem to be the style that is most accepted as "typical." I will probably make some with the rounded style because...well they look cool!
This axe was fun to make. Each one teaches me something new. I do seem to get small surface flaws were the eyesocket steel is transitioning to the blade steel. I believe this is the result of the forgewelding. You do see this sort of thing on originals. Oh well...they certainly do not look out of place for a period piece and they definately DO NOT hinder the performance...this is a compact bundle of whoop-arse!!!
Thank you everyone for your interest.
Find me on Facebook, or check out my blog. Contact me at eric@crownforge.net or ericmycue374@comcast.net if you want to talk about a commission or discuss an available piece.
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Greyson Brown
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| Posted: Sat 13 May, 2006 1:23 pm Post subject: |
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Eric,
Thanks for pointing out those rounded langets. If I have seen that before, I definately overlooked it.
I would agree that, if you are getting surface flaws, it is probably the result of the forge weld. On the other hand, it sure doesn't look like you have a cold shut. It's still a good solid weld, so I wouldn't worry about it too much.
I've been contemplating what I want to do when I get access to a forge again (should happen soon with my return to the States). You may have just inspired me. The only other axe I have forged was a small camp axe made from a railroad spike, so I really want to see if I can do something more historical and involved.
-Grey
"So long as I can keep the path of honor I am well content."
-Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, The White Company
Last edited by Greyson Brown on Sat 13 May, 2006 2:59 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Eric McHugh
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Sat 13 May, 2006 2:01 pm Post subject: |
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| Greyson Brown wrote: |
I would agree that, if you are getting surface flaws, it is probably the result of the forge weld. On the other hand, it sure doesn't look like you have a cold shut. It's still a good solid weld, so I wouldn't worry about it too much. |
Yes, I agree, it is not a cold shut. I've done enough of these now to realize that as the material that makes up the eye gets thinner from being forged out, the transition zone gets a little uneven and some pits open up. If it was pattern weld, these little pits would not be there because when it is folded another layer is welded on top and eventually it is folded out, but since there is no fold and it is only one weld, these pits just sorta pop up in places. The axe is definately secure as far as the weld goes, so like you said, nothing to worry about. I thought about welding them with my torch, but to be honest, they kinda look cool. They look in character with the piece. :-)
Find me on Facebook, or check out my blog. Contact me at eric@crownforge.net or ericmycue374@comcast.net if you want to talk about a commission or discuss an available piece.
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Craig Peters
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| Posted: Sat 13 May, 2006 2:45 pm Post subject: |
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| Eric McHugh wrote: | | Greyson Brown wrote: |
I would agree that, if you are getting surface flaws, it is probably the result of the forge weld. On the other hand, it sure doesn't look like you have a cold shut. It's still a good solid weld, so I wouldn't worry about it too much. |
Yes, I agree, it is not a cold shut. I've done enough of these now to realize that as the material that makes up the eye gets thinner from being forged out, the transition zone gets a little uneven and some pits open up. If it was pattern weld, these little pits would not be there because when it is folded another layer is welded on top and eventually it is folded out, but since there is no fold and it is only one weld, these pits just sorta pop up in places. The axe is definately secure as far as the weld goes, so like you said, nothing to worry about. I thought about welding them with my torch, but to be honest, they kinda look cool. They look in character with the piece. :-) |
Eric,
What price were you asking for the second copy of this axe? For that matter, how much do you charge (ballpark range) for custome made axes similar to this one?
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Andy Bain
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| Posted: Sun 14 May, 2006 2:12 am Post subject: |
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I thought I'd pipe up and mention that Eric is a great guy to work with. We started off with me wanting an axe that would fit in the Viking period. Eric helped me narrow it down from there by sending me pictures of existing pieces as well as drawings showing the profile of the various axe types. Once I had picked out the one I wanted he kept me well informed of the progress of the project. And to top it off he got it done way sooner than he had originally estimated.
The only complaint I have is, due to the distance between BC and Wisconsin, I won't be able to pour Eric a glass of vintage port to say thanks. I 'll just have to drink it myself and say a toast in his name.
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Randal Graham
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Wed 17 May, 2006 6:22 am Post subject: |
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Eric, you're not giving yourself enough credit on the quality of the weld and the construction of the axe... you're making it hard for yourself to begin with by putting a finish on that axe that is so far beyond what was likely given them historically that I can't help but look at the picture, scratch my head, and say "what pit?"
Nice job.
R.H.Graham
Swordsmith
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Eric McHugh
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Wed 17 May, 2006 12:01 pm Post subject: |
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| Randal Graham wrote: | | Eric, you're not giving yourself enough credit on the quality of the weld and the construction of the axe... you're making it hard for yourself to begin with by putting a finish on that axe that is so far beyond what was likely given them historically that I can't help but look at the picture, scratch my head, and say "what pit?" Nice job. |
Thanks!
Well, you know how it is. Makers are their worst critics. ;-) Never happy with it, always doubting...
Find me on Facebook, or check out my blog. Contact me at eric@crownforge.net or ericmycue374@comcast.net if you want to talk about a commission or discuss an available piece.
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Lee Reeves
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Fri 19 May, 2006 10:42 am Post subject: eric |
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I am in the market for that type of axe too. What would be the price and wait time
Lee
Not everything has to be decided at the point of a sword, but somethings can only be decided at the point of a sword.
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Alexander Hinman
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| Posted: Sat 20 May, 2006 2:57 pm Post subject: |
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That is a really nice axe, Eric. It's good to see some top-shelf hafted weapons nowadays.
I have two questions, though.
First, how did you forge out the langets? I've been considering making an axe, but, mentally I am always stuck on the langets.
Second, what type of tongs did you use when welding? Did you use two kinds, for that matter?
Once again, that is an awesome piece of steel and wood there.
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Eric McHugh
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Sun 21 May, 2006 7:00 am Post subject: |
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| Alexander Hinman wrote: | That is a really nice axe, Eric. It's good to see some top-shelf hafted weapons nowadays.
I have two questions, though.
First, how did you forge out the langets? I've been considering making an axe, but, mentally I am always stuck on the langets.
Second, what type of tongs did you use when welding? Did you use two kinds, for that matter?
Once again, that is an awesome piece of steel and wood there. |
That's a good question. When I first started making these, I would make a "bow-tie" piece of steel with crude langets already in place. The result was misaligned langets etc. So now, I make an almost straight piece (still somewhat like a bow-tie) and just concentrate on making a good eye for the socket. I then clean that piece up and do some shaping on the grinder according to my drawings. I then forge weld the socket to the blade material. After that is done, I clean it up and then do the final shaping of the langets using my small diameter wheels.
I use bolt tongs that I have modified to hold the eye in place when forge welding. Other than that, I have a variety of wolf jaw tongs that I use. You may have to modify tongs or make your own according to what you believe feels best. You need one to hold the eye when you are making it...I use wolf jaws for this...you need another to hold the eye when you forge weld it to the blade (I use a small tack weld to keep them from moving...this of course gets ground off) so that is where the bolt tongs come in handy. They fit in each side of the eye. I then heat the whole thing to welding temp. and then forge weld them together.
I guess my advise is focus on making the eye the right shape and do not worry about the langets. Just leave yourself enough material that you can grind them in when you are finished. I have a pile of ruined attempts at the smithy because I was focusing on trying to do too many things at once. :-)
Other than that it is trial and error. Modern mild steel and higher carbon simple steel do not like to weld (compared to the steel the ancients would have used) It requires high heat and fast, decisive hammer strikes (but not heavy). Usually it takes a number of heats to have it completely welded. One other note: I only heat treat the edge. I am a little nervous about blowing a weld by trying to harden the whole blade area. Plus, it is not necessary. The unharded body gives the axe more shock resistence.
Find me on Facebook, or check out my blog. Contact me at eric@crownforge.net or ericmycue374@comcast.net if you want to talk about a commission or discuss an available piece.
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Randal Graham
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Sun 21 May, 2006 7:30 am Post subject: |
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| Eric McHugh wrote: |
Modern mild steel and higher carbon simple steel do not like to weld (compared to the steel the ancients would have used) It requires high heat and fast, decisive hammer strikes (but not heavy). Usually it takes a number of heats to have it completely welded. One other note: I only heat treat the edge. I am a little nervous about blowing a weld by trying to harden the whole blade area. Plus, it is not necessary. The unharded body gives the axe more shock resistence. |
Funny how form and function dictates the process.... there's every indication that this was the "way" for the last 2000 years or so. Cool.
R.H.Graham
Swordsmith
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