[Joshua Reptsik]

I'm in the middle of attempting to construct a pair of splinted vambraces but it's not going as planned. I'm not aiming for acute period construction of a certain century but I'm more concerned with structural integrity and usability. If anyone knows of any resources or has any advice on the construction of these buggers it would rock my world. Thanks a ton.

[Chuck Russell]

well what kind of splinted vambracers are you makeing? the 8th-10thc bazantium(sp?) style? or the 14thc style on leather? let me know and i'll help ya out

[Steve Pollack]

For heavy Sca use, and also period-correct ( the De Cheyne brass, I believe). I suggest using 12-16 oz oak tan leather dyed your favorite color. Splint with 1/2"x 1/8" steel bar available from Home Depot. Use galvinised roofing nails for rivets. Space splints about 1" apart at the wrist, increasing to 1 1/2" apart at the elbow. Drill 1/8" holes in splints about 1 1/2 - 2" apart. Drill holes in leather to match the splints. Nail heads go inside the vambrace , the splints to the outside. Clip and peen nails. Make the vambrace opening along the inside of the forearm to the inside of the wrist, instead of down the forearm from the bicep to the center of the wrist, seems to work better. Needs two straps to hold it on. Wetting the leather will help it fit to the arm better.

This style requires no padding, and WILL NOT get you bruised, or broken by any weapon I know of. ( OK, possibly broadhead arrows.) It is also colorful, and visually pleasing. The vambrace can be laced to a large metal or hardened leather elbow cop, (simple). Or attached to an articulated steel Couter (more complex). In any case THE ELBOW PIECE will keep the vambrace from slipping down over the wrist.

An alternate method is to divide the vambrace Pattern into about 8 lengthwise segments (depends on size of your wrist).Cut out these segments in 16-18ga steel or rigid aluminum. You might curve these splints lengthwise a little to fit better. Drill and rivet splints to the leather and add straps. This style will show little or none of the underlying leather. I recommend gluing or sewing a piece of blanket or felt to pad inside these if a much lighter leather is used. For a byzantine portrayal, wooden slats can be laced on.

[Joshua Reptsik]

Thanks Chuck. I was thinking of a simple 7th C style that I saw in this rendition of a Anglian king. It's the third picture down. It's not the best picture but it's the only one I could cook up. I'm not sure what the proper name or style these would be called.

http://www.murphsplace.com/owen/arthur/wars.html

If I can pull these off I'd like to make the greaves as well.

Thanks too, Steve. That was a very satisfying reply. I've never tried to cold peen nails. Good idea though. Thanks again.

[Chuck Russell]

ok thats what i thought you wanted. if you can get ahold of The Vikings recreated in colour photographs by nurmann, schulze & verhulsdonk there is a great picture on page 32 and 34. do some searches for "Varangian guard" on google and check it out. its really only a few pieces of steel rivetted together with a 3/4 oz leather strip underneath. there about 1/2-3/4 inches apart. make sure the piece on the inner part of the arm are shorter to allow the arm to benc and the splints on the outter arms curve out at the ends as to not to catch your tricept or bicept when you twist.

as to the method steve used its kewl. but i would give each piece of steel a dish or curve to them. cause the forarm is not flat, it fits better and forms to the arm. also there is the method of splints both inside and outside the vambracer alternating.

[Steve Pollack]

If you wet mold the leather to your arm before adding the splints, you can custom-fit each splint. However, the lengthwise curvature is fairly minimal, and can be pounded in with a rubber/wooden mallet fairly easily even if the splints are attached first. Mostly, it is a little concave at the wrist. To get the 'tulip' shape expansion at the wrist will require a cone inserted at the wrist and allowing the leather to dry in that shape. Not really neccessary for a leather armor, I think that is an artifact of steel plate armoring.

The Vendal-style splints, as shown, don't appear too comfortable to wear, and without a liner or padding, look to provide protection at the price of some pretty substantial bruising...

J, you did not mention the end-use of the armor, so that will affect the type of protection needed. The best thing to do is get out some cardboard, and make up a pattern. Then make a pair.

[Chuck Russell]

[Joshua Reptsik]

Thanks Chuck and Steve again for the info. I have an old piece of sheepskin that I was going to use to line the vambraces with for extra padding, or just maybe make a separate vambrace of sheepskin to wear underneath. I not sure.. The "varangian" searching was a lot more fruitful than what I had been searching under. Better pics for sure. Thanks again.

http://www.saxonviolence.co.uk/item.php?id=28

I post pics whenever I get these done.

[Chuck Russell]