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Jesse Frank
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Location: Tallahassee, Fl
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PostPosted: Mon 12 Sep, 2005 8:32 am    Post subject: New seax for sale(now with sheath, [sold])         Reply with quote

Hey everybody,

I have a new seax up for sale. It is made from 150+ year old wrought iron with a three bar construction. The spine is two opposing twists, and the edge is a san mai style construction, with the high carbon center portion made from the same wrought iron, which I carburized, not from modern high carbon steel. This is a period method of construction, given a period style finish.

The handle is spalted ambrosia maple with a twisted silver wire ferrule, and th buttcap is elk antler, with my makers mark (my initials on either side of the trunk of the tree, Yggdrasil) scrimshawed into it. The handle is finished with linseed oil.




Price without sheath, $600.

I will start on a sheath for it today or tomorrow, unless there is interest for it without one.

Thanks for checking it out!
Jesse

http://jfmetalsmith.com/


Last edited by Jesse Frank on Wed 21 Sep, 2005 2:04 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Jesse Frank
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Location: Tallahassee, Fl
Joined: 04 May 2005

Posts: 144

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PostPosted: Mon 12 Sep, 2005 8:37 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Here is a better shot.


http://jfmetalsmith.com/


Last edited by Jesse Frank on Tue 13 Sep, 2005 6:14 am; edited 2 times in total
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J. Padgett




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PostPosted: Mon 12 Sep, 2005 8:53 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Very cool. I'm poor right now, but I bookmarked your site fo future reference. Big Grin
"The truth shall make ye fret."
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Jesse Frank
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Location: Tallahassee, Fl
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PostPosted: Mon 12 Sep, 2005 1:04 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I'm glad you like it. Here is a closer shot of the pattern. It isn't terribly visible in the pics, but it really shows up in person. It looks like an antique Happy




http://jfmetalsmith.com/
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Edward Hitchens




Location: Cincinnati, Ohio, USA
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PostPosted: Mon 12 Sep, 2005 3:01 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Ummm, shouldn't this topic be in the Marketplace? Confused

BTW, those are very nice pictures of a very nice seax!

"The whole art of government consists in the art of being honest." Thomas Jefferson
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Alexi Goranov
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PostPosted: Mon 12 Sep, 2005 3:27 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Edward Hitchens wrote:
Ummm, shouldn't this topic be in the Marketplace? Confused

BTW, those are very nice pictures of a very nice seax!


Though I am not a moderator I will try to answer this one, Ed.

I think it is in place. Jessie is an industry professional so here is a quote form the definition of the Makers and Manufacturers forum.

Quote:
Welcome to the Makers and Manufacturers Talk forum. The official description for this area is:

"Announcements, press releases, promotions, and marketing information from the makers, manufacturers, and vendors of arms and armour"

We've put this area here for the makers and manufacturers to talk directly with their customers regarding current and future product offerings. We encourage these organizations to post announcements of new products, sale items, and promotions here to inform our members. Our goal at myArmoury.com is to help the market surrounding our hobby to grow. To this end, this forum exists to help assist in marketing and promotional efforts for our community's makers.
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Chad Arnow
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PostPosted: Mon 12 Sep, 2005 4:23 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Edward Hitchens wrote:
Ummm, shouldn't this topic be in the Marketplace? Confused

BTW, those are very nice pictures of a very nice seax!


Ted,
Alexi is quite right. Jesse is what we call an Industry Professional, aka a craftsperson. This forum is a place where we actively encourage makers and vendors to post product announcements. The Marketplace is for individuals (ie. non-business) looking to sell items to other individuals. People who have contacted Nathan about Industry Professional status, and have been given it, are the only ones allowed to start topics in this forum.

Please rest assured that we would have moved it by now to the correct place if it needed moving. We are watching...

Happy

Happy

ChadA

http://chadarnow.com/
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Darwin Todd





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PostPosted: Mon 12 Sep, 2005 6:30 pm    Post subject: Working wrought iron         Reply with quote

Hey Jesse,
That is a pretty sharp looking piece (no pun intended) Wink . How do you find working the wrought iron? I have not tried working any myself yet but I have heard it feels different under the hammer from modern mild steel.
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Jesse Frank
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Location: Tallahassee, Fl
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PostPosted: Tue 13 Sep, 2005 5:03 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Thanks guys Happy

The wrought iron works like butter, but it needs to be worked HOT. It's better to use a solid fuel forge instead of gas, but I just hooked up a bigger blower, so now it gets plenty hot Wink

http://jfmetalsmith.com/
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Jesse Frank
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PostPosted: Tue 13 Sep, 2005 6:15 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I changed the second pic up there with a better one if you a ll are interested.
http://jfmetalsmith.com/
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Edward Hitchens




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PostPosted: Tue 13 Sep, 2005 6:54 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Sorry for the confusion, everyone. Worried My bad!

I can't wait to see what the scabbard will look like with that seax. BTW, Jesse, what are its measurements?

"The whole art of government consists in the art of being honest." Thomas Jefferson
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Jesse Frank
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Location: Tallahassee, Fl
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PostPosted: Tue 13 Sep, 2005 9:28 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

No problem.

The blade is 9.5"
Handle is 4.5"
Happy

http://jfmetalsmith.com/
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Jesse Frank
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PostPosted: Wed 21 Sep, 2005 8:03 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Now with sheath, price reduced to $500.


http://jfmetalsmith.com/
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Thomas Hoogendam




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PostPosted: Wed 21 Sep, 2005 10:13 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Jesse Frank wrote:
Now with sheath, price reduced to $500.


So very, very tempting, but alas, I need a car, and my budget for this year is spend. Sad

Great looking seax and sheath Jesse.
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Daniel Parry




PostPosted: Wed 21 Sep, 2005 11:05 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Jesse,

Is the steel you used able to take a good edge ? And is the tang a full tang through to the pommel and well secured? If the answers are yes, then I'll take it at that price. I'll add shipping to the UK. My only caveat to you is that the only reason I ever buy knives is to use for cooking - a greater passion for me than fencing or antique swords, so your piece of craftsmanship will be, as i see it, a perfect implement for cutting pork belly and steak before entering the pot- do you mind? I'll be away in Belgium from tomorrow until Sunday for work but can probably pick up PMs here.

Regards

Daniel
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Jesse Frank
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PostPosted: Wed 21 Sep, 2005 11:54 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hi Daniel,

I just tested it for edge retention again, and it does hold a good edge. The test was to perform 50 3/8" deep cuts into some old 3/16" thick leather (not very supple. Quite abrasive as far as leather goes) with only the last 1" of the blade, and then have that portion still shave, and it passed just fine. Honestly, I couldn't tell a difference from how it was before I started.

I know you are quite knowledgeable, I'm *not* trying to insult your intelligence, but I do want to make sure that I make some things clear before you decide, so here are some things to know before using it for your intended purpose:

It will take a considerable amount of upkeep compared to your run of the mill stainless knife with a plastic handle. I've soaked it repeatedly with linseed oil, put quite a bit in it actually, but it won't hold up to a dishwasher. The spacer between the blade and handle is leather. Soaked in linseed oil, but it's still leather, so after washing it will need to dry thoroughly. We have a couple kitched knives that we use that have leather spacers, and have never had a problem, other than when I forget to dry them Also, since the wood is spalted, there are some pin holes in the wood that I could address that are fine for about anything other than dedicated food preparation.

Here is a diagram I just made showing the construction. Notice that the full width of the tang does enter the buttcap, only the very peened end has a smaller diameter of about 1/8".


Having said all that, I personally wouldn't hesitate to use it as a kitchen knife. The wrought iron should get a really nice patina to it. That would be really cool for you to use it like that, actually. The edge is fairly aggressive with slicing due to the stratification of the layers.


http://jfmetalsmith.com/
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Daniel Parry




PostPosted: Wed 21 Sep, 2005 12:25 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hi Jesse

Thanks for the info and yes I'll take it. I have never been a fan of stainless steel knives for any purpose, and I fully understand the issues of leather and organic construction versus plastic. All my cooking knives are made of similar materials (wood, bone , leather & carbon steel) and I would never leave them to the whims of a dish-washer. So no worries on that front, all will be cared for in the proper fashion. My favourite cooking pans are old French cast iron ones - a lot of TLC but great heat distribution. All I need is stylish and a good edge.

Daniel
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Jesse Frank
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Location: Tallahassee, Fl
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PostPosted: Wed 21 Sep, 2005 12:34 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Awesome.


If you would like to PM or email me your info, I'll get right on it Happy

http://jfmetalsmith.com/
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Daniel Parry




PostPosted: Wed 21 Sep, 2005 1:56 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Sent an email to your website address. However you want to work it payment-wise. Only thing is I'm in Belgium for work, then a friend's wedding in Paris for the next few days so if we don't conclude tonight , don't lose heart - sale's still on, just might take a couple of days to get back to you.

regards

Daniel
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Jesse Frank
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Location: Tallahassee, Fl
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PostPosted: Wed 21 Sep, 2005 2:03 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Great. Happy

Thanks again, Daniel. I'll mark it as sold.

Jesse

http://jfmetalsmith.com/
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