[G. Scott H.]

The only thing I found using the search function was a post made two years ago. The guy seemed to like his, but he didn't give too many specifics. This is one of those swords that caught my eye at first sight and doesn't want to let go. As soon as I finish paying off a few other items ( ), I just may take the plunge on one of these. I'm not particularly concerned with its historical accuracy, just general impressions about fit and quality by any who may own or have handled one. With By the Sword selling them for $135 apiece, I'm REALLY tempted.

Thanks,

Scott

[Kevin S. McCarley]

Hello Scott,
I purchased mine 6-9 months ago from MRL at a sale price (plus I was a member of their 'discount club' at the time). So, perhaps like you, I just couldn't resist the deal.

Overall I'm pleased with the tuck but it wasn't quite what I expected. Actually, I originally purchased it just for the blade. My plan was to disassemble the sword and have the tuck blade mounted to a custom complex hilt. For a few reasons that didn't happen, one reason being that I really liked the tuck hilt! The proportions are nice to my eye, the long-ish cross with a nice 's' curve. And the grip is very comfortable. All is well assembled and tight on my sword, so I decided it would be a shame to ditch the hilt.

Also, the blade wasn't entirely what I expected. I thought a tuck blade would be very stiff throughout it's length, very thick at the guard tapering to a sharp point. Well, the point is stiff with a nice diamond cross-section. But the forte is rather thin, more like a typical sword, and not particularly stiff... well, not as stiff as I expected for a tuck anyway. Looking at the edge of the blade, it appears to have very little, if any, distal taper. If I 'plant' the point and flex the blade, most of the bend is in the forte, the foible is stiff. Not saying this is 'bad' or historically inaccurate, just not what I expected. Overall the blade looks good, well made, no noticable flaws.

So, overall I'm pleased. I'm glad to have a tuck in my collection (partcularly since it's a type not often replicated) and I think it's an excellent value. Hope that helps.

Good luck,

[G. Scott H.]

Thanks for the review, Kevin. Sounds like the Tuck is indeed a decent piece for the money. I guess the main draw of the Tuck for me is its unique look: sort of a hand-and-a-half hilt mated to a rapier blade. Speaking of the hilt, is the pommel threaded on or peened?

Thanks again,

Scott

[Kevin S. McCarley]

Well, I *assume* that it is threaded on... but it's hard to tell for sure.

There is no 'button' and also no visible indication that the tang has been peened and then ground smooth. Perhaps the entire pommel is threaded onto the end of the tang? If so, it doesn't yield to 'moderate' twisting, lock tight maybe?

This is one of the reasons I decided to not try and disassemble the sword and re-mount the blade (in addition to the fact that I like the hilt as-is). I thought I'd just grind off the peened tang if I couldn't loosen the hilt by unscrewing the button... but there's nothing visible to grind off. As it turned out I decided I didn't want to risk damaging the sword by trying to force it apart. *shrug*

Having re-looked at the tuck while answering your post, I'm again tempted to put this blade onto a complex hilt. At this price it might be worth the risk to buy a second one and apply more 'ummph' in an attempt to dis-assemble the sword. Something to consider...

Hopefully someone else will post so you (and I!) can get another data point.

[G. Scott H.]

[Greyson Brown]

The Tuck is not within my period of interest, so I've never taken much notice of it (other than a passing, "that's and awkward looking sword" observation), but I might be able to help with the pommel.

I purchased the Windlass Norman Sword a while back (not the best choice in my opinion, but I did it, so I have to live with that), and the pommel on that piece is threaded onto the tang. Where the tang comes out of the top of the pommel, it was peened, and then ground flush. Thanks to the dry weather in Colorado, the grip shrunk and the pommel is loose enough to be turned about 1/8th of a turn. When I remove the pommel (I intend to use the fittings for other projects, and re-work the blade a bit), I intend to heat the tang with a torch and then just unscrew the pommel. Of course the tang will have to be at least red, and orange would be better. That should work, but I haven't tried it yet.

If you are willing to risk damage to the grip on you tuck, you might be able to overtighten the pommel, so that the end of the tang is exposed, and do the same thing. If you aren't willing to do that, you might have the issue of the tang not getting hot enough when heated (the pommel will probably act as a heat-sink, and absorb a lot of your efforts). About the only other thing that I can think of involves a file or a drill press, and possible damage to the pommel. Personally, I would rather sacrife the grip (they are a lot easier to replace, and should be redone (my opinion, of course) on most Windlass swords, anyway) than the pommel.

However you end up taking that piece apart, let us know. As the kind of person who views a lot of things as project pieces, I would be glad to add another trick to the bag.

-Grey

[Kevin S. McCarley]

Well, I used my Grip Wrench, a nifty little tool with a rubber belt that wraps around the item (the pommel in this case) and the pommel came off with the first twist! The threaded tang doesn't go all the way through the pommel. There is a very slight discoloration on the threads, there may have been some sorta lock tight used, but it comes off/on easily now.

Now that it's disassembled, there are no nasty surprizes inside the hilt. The tang is fairly wide, 11/16" at the cross, and 1/4" thick. No rough transitions, no sloppy grind marks, no welds. It looks pretty strong to me.

On this Windlass sword the grip is pretty good. The leather cover is tight, the stitching is straight (if not terribly tiny) and all is well constructed. The grip shape is comfortable. Overall, maybe not to the very highest standards but just fine for the price.

This is just one data point, "your tuck may vary", but I have no complaints about this one. My decision now is to keep it 'as is' or use it as a 'project sword' and design a new hilt for the blade!

[Greyson Brown]

Good deal! The Grip Wrench is that fancy shmansy little deal with the rubber strap that cinches down around stuff like pipes and the lids of pickle jars (and apparently pommels, too), right? I might have to get me one of those, 'cause I need another cool tool.

Good luck with the complex hilt. Let us know how it turns out.

-Grey

Edit: oops, you answered my question in your post. Best of luck on your new project anyway!

[G. Scott H.]

Good info, Kevin. Many thanks. I sort of got the idea that the pommel was just threaded on, from the pics I've seen. The beauty of these threaded-on pommels is the ease with which they allow the hilt to be disassembled for custom work. Woohoo! And, if you want the thing to stay on tight, just dribble a little Loc-Tite on the threads (use the blue or "medium" strength formulation so you can get it back off if you want). I guess I'm going to have to go ahead and get a Tuck.

Scott

[Kevin S. McCarley]

Grey - yep, that's the Grip Wrench. This is actually the first time I've used mine for anything. I doubt they had threaded pommels in-mind when they designed it... but it seems to do the trick!

Scott - good luck with your purchase. I hope you are as pleased with your tuck as I have been with mine. I think, particularly at this price-point, that it's a pretty safe purchase.

My budget constraints will probably prevent me pursuing the idea of a custom complex hilt at this time. So I'll continue to enjoy it as-is for now. But maybe someday....