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Michael Brudon
Location: South Pacific Joined: 21 Dec 2013
Posts: 107
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Matthew Amt
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 Posted: Tue 10 Mar, 2015 9:13 am Post subject: |
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Well, I suspect all of those are perfectly functional, but for any remotely *historical* use I wouldn't even look at anything from Cold Steel. You can get hand-forged tomahawks for less money:
http://jas-townsend.com/tomahawks-c-20_59.html
Skip the cast one at top, it's less historical and costs more! I've had two of the TH-54 types since the early 1980s, one sharp that I still cut kindling with, and the other blunt for (semi-choreorgraphed) medieval reenactment combat. They still work just fine! If you plan to hammer a lot of tent stakes, etc., I suspect the British Light Infantry Axe will be even better.
Townsend is a very respected sutler, by the way, for 2 generations. But if they don't have what you want in stock, try G. Gedney Godwin, Track of the Wolf, Avalon Forge, Crazy Crow Outfitters, etc. Products and prices will vary, but hand-forged camp axes are just too easy to find.
Have fun!
Matthew
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Luka Borscak
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| Posted: Tue 10 Mar, 2015 10:41 am Post subject: |
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I never used a cold steel axe, but I love to have small hand axes close to me when reenacting. I use them both for chores and fighting. They look very cool and practical, down to earth and I like fighting with them in a combination with a small heater shield. I mostly use slightly vintage axes made for either firemen or some carpenter versions, both of these have a nice small and light head and a small, simple hammer at the other end. Very practical.
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Mikko Kuusirati
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| Posted: Tue 10 Mar, 2015 4:18 pm Post subject: |
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Another good maker not yet mentioned: Gränsfors Bruks. I particularly like their Swedish Viking Axe.
"And sin, young man, is when you treat people like things. Including yourself. That's what sin is."
— Terry Pratchett, Carpe Jugulum
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Eric W. Norenberg
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| Posted: Wed 11 Mar, 2015 12:09 am Post subject: |
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| Mikko Kuusirati wrote: | | Another good maker not yet mentioned: Gränsfors Bruks. I particularly like their Swedish Viking Axe. |
Gränsfors Bruks makes some amazing axes indeed. They even feel like top quality just holding them in your hand, in the hardware store, employees watching you warily... Hmmm.
Their historical line also looks to be well researched. They are much more expensive than anything previously mentioned, but probably worth it for the level of quality and durability, if you mean to use it seriously and can justify the cost. A Gränsfors will outlast you if you don't do something neglectful to it.
What time period are you chasing after? Some tomahawk- type axes look plausible as fighters for earlier periods but are too small to really serve as a camp axe. But there are some axe types intended for light to medium duty tool usage that wouldn't be too heavy to fight with reasonably well.
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Gossart Pierre
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| Posted: Wed 11 Mar, 2015 12:23 am Post subject: |
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http://www.adithiel.com/
another one , very good (I have one axe from him)
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Jeroen Averhals
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Michael Brudon
Location: South Pacific Joined: 21 Dec 2013
Posts: 107
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| Posted: Wed 11 Mar, 2015 1:59 am Post subject: |
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| Eric W. Norenberg wrote: |
What time period are you chasing after? Some tomahawk- type axes look plausible as fighters for earlier periods but are too small to really serve as a camp axe. But there are some axe types intended for light to medium duty tool usage that wouldn't be too heavy to fight with reasonably well. |
Thanks for the replies all, I am checking out the inks.
Eric you pretty much nailed what I am after. The heaviest medium use camp axe that still suits as a fighter. The period/history, not to important, this is mostly for actual camp use. What sort of axe or more importantly what size and specs would one aim for in this regard?
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Eric W. Norenberg
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| Posted: Wed 11 Mar, 2015 8:54 pm Post subject: |
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Michael, my current axe affair is one of these (one of the best Christmas gifts I've received, thank you son!)
http://www.counciltool.com/product.asp?pg=product&item=20HB28
A Council Tools Hudson Bay pattern axe, 2 lb head with 28" haft. They offer it with an 18" handle but that seemed like too much head weight for a hatchet, the longer (but not as long as a felling axe) haft makes it almost the axe / hatchet equivalent of a bastard or hand-and-half sword. Great with two hands, doable with one, choked up. I picked it out with the guiding principle of something that would work as an axe at home but still be a reasonable camp tool. Square poll on the back marks it as a tool, not a weapon, and the weight is more than you'd want for a dedicated fighter of the same size & reach, but... yeah, it's modern Viking material. Took very little work to get it shaving sharp, which is actually kinda scary when you think about the mass and concentrated impact. Made in USA and seems like pretty good quality so far. Not sure how hard these (or something like) will be to get down under.
When I get some time and work up the gumption, I'm going to polish off all the black paint, put a slightly less modern looking haft on it, and just maybe grind the head into a bearded profile, make it look a little more like an early builder's axe. I won't take too much mass out of it tho, I like the way it turns old Xmas trees into kindling.
-Eric
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Aaron Hoard
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| Posted: Wed 11 Mar, 2015 10:12 pm Post subject: |
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If we're talking medium camp axes, I'm rather fond of the Gransfors Bruk Small Forest Axe. I've used this axe for years and it does a lot of things well. Not an exceptional splitter, but it'll work. Just a handy, all-around axe. It could be put to use as a "fighter" if need-be.
http://www.gransforsbruk.com/en/products/fore...orest-axe/
One thing with these "boys axes" is that you've got to watch your shins. They're just the right length where a missed or glanced, two-hand chop can send it sailing back about shin height. A miss or glance with a longer axe might send it into the ground instead. Not a deal breaker, but something to consider.
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Eric W. Norenberg
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| Posted: Wed 11 Mar, 2015 11:33 pm Post subject: |
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| Aaron Hoard wrote: |
One thing with these "boys axes" is that you've got to watch your shins. They're just the right length where a missed or glanced, two-hand chop can send it sailing back about shin height. A miss or glance with a longer axe might send it into the ground instead. |
Yes indeed! Or if the haft is a little longer, those glancing strokes come right at that bony knob on your ankle! You definitely have to think about safety with one of these, especially when using a lot of power.
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Ken Speed
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| Posted: Thu 12 Mar, 2015 5:35 am Post subject: |
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If you're considering a Cold Steel Tomahawk to use as a tool the best two choices are the Trail Hawk and the Pipe Hawk. The Frontier Hawk and the Norse Hawk are too light and the Rifleman's Hawk is quite heavy.
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Michael Brudon
Location: South Pacific Joined: 21 Dec 2013
Posts: 107
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| Posted: Thu 12 Mar, 2015 7:30 pm Post subject: |
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With the gransfors axes is the listed weight inclusive of the handle or for the head only?
Reason I ask is I am currently using a modern plastic handled medium axe for camp work which is 25" long and a 2lb head .
I'm looking to go slightly smaller for this one.
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Aaron Hoard
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| Posted: Thu 12 Mar, 2015 8:13 pm Post subject: |
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Weight is for the entire axe - including the handle. My SFA comes in at 2lb 0.8oz. - listed weight is 2lb.
Their Hunters's Axe is another one you might want to look at. Rounded poll, so I don't think it's as useful (to me) and it has a different angle for the bit. But, it's around the same size as the Small Forest Axe and lots of people like them.
Wetterlings is another axe maker that you might check. Similar quality to the Gransfors axes, but a little more affordable. (last I checked)
http://www.wetterlings.com/axes/
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Ken Speed
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| Posted: Fri 13 Mar, 2015 6:38 am Post subject: |
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One of the things you need to be aware of with the Cold Steel tomahawks is that you really are not getting a finished tool, they are actually more like kits and will need some corrective work to be useful tools. The set screw is just an abomination and needs to be removed. The eye will need to be dressed with a file or with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel to allow the head and handle to fit together well.
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Michael Brudon
Location: South Pacific Joined: 21 Dec 2013
Posts: 107
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| Posted: Tue 17 Mar, 2015 2:14 am Post subject: |
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Thanks all for the information and links!
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Andy Summers
Location: Clifton Joined: 20 Nov 2018
Posts: 1
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| Posted: Wed 21 Nov, 2018 2:47 am Post subject: |
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I apologize for bumping this old thread but maybe it will be informative to smb in future. I use Hults Bruk Dave Canterbury Axe. It's realy good axe for home and camping. It was created by the famous, experienced blacksmith Cartenbury. His axe design is wisely based on the traditional pattern that was popular throughout the 19th century and used by professional woodmen. Dave a well-known also as an outdoor, wilderness and survival skills instructor. So, he tried to make the axe not too heavy, good for hobby use. You can read about there prons and cons here https://bestoutdooritems.com/best-felling-axe/
Of course everybody need to do his choise, but i think it's perfect axe.
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Jean Thibodeau
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| Posted: Wed 21 Nov, 2018 3:09 am Post subject: |
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| Andy Summers wrote: | I apologize for bumping this old thread but maybe it will be informative to smb in future. I use Hults Bruk Dave Canterbury Axe. It's realy good axe for home and camping. It was created by the famous, experienced blacksmith Cartenbury. His axe design is wisely based on the traditional pattern that was popular throughout the 19th century and used by professional woodmen. Dave a well-known also as an outdoor, wilderness and survival skills instructor. So, he tried to make the axe not too heavy, good for hobby use. You can read about there prons and cons here https://bestoutdooritems.com/best-felling-axe/
Of course everybody need to do his choise, but i think it's perfect axe. |
No need to apologize as a long time member here I always appreciate anyone adding new information to an old topic thread when they add new and useful information or even to just ask questions.
It also brings back older topic back up for other people to notice and add their own comments or read the older posts.
Good thing to note is that there are now thousands upon thousands of old topic threads that can be found by a focused search of the Forums or just random looking at old topics when one is in the mood to do some reading.   
Andy, and welcome to the web site and Forums.
You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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This is a standard topic