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Ben Sweet
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 Posted: Thu 23 Oct, 2003 3:18 pm Post subject: amature browning of Angus Trim fittings |
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I got tired of seeing the same old stock look to my fittings made by Angus Trim and had an extra set that I had bought from a member here. I went to the local gun store and bought 2 bottles of different stuff. The 1st was a bottle of Brichwood Casey Super Blue aka Liquid Gun Blue for $6.50. The 2nd bottle was also from Brichwood Casey but called Plum Brown aka Barrel Finish for $8.75. Directions are easy to follow and on the back of each bottle. The round pommel and bowtie guard had I put a bead blasted finish on and the other pommel I had place a high polish on so each reacted different to the solution.
I made sure all fittings were free of buffing compound and other greases, place them on a metal pan that I covered in tin foil, heated the oven to 275F and let sit for around 5min then removed the tray and dipped a sponge in the Plum Brown and wiped the parts down until they stopped splattering then when they were cool enough to handle I washed them with water to remove the excess Plum Brown liquid and dried them off so they could sit over night to cure. A simple $8.75 new look
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Chuck Perino
Location: Roseburg, Oregon Joined: 22 Aug 2003
Posts: 107
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| Posted: Thu 23 Oct, 2003 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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Looks cool!  do you have any assembled pics of the atrim?
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Ben Sweet
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| Posted: Thu 23 Oct, 2003 6:15 pm Post subject: |
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| Chuck Perino wrote: | | Looks cool! do you have any assembled pics of the atrim? |
here is a quick shot...I'll put them on one of the swords 2morro
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Manny G
Location: Southern California Joined: 24 Oct 2003
Posts: 47
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| Posted: Fri 24 Oct, 2003 5:51 pm Post subject: |
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How about some ray-skin on that handle?
Just kidding... ...or am I? 
Sort-of a subdued black & white color scheme on the grip would be nice.
Or a simple, clean black handle.
Just opinions...
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Patrick Hastings
Industry Professional
Location: West coast USA Joined: 18 Aug 2003
Posts: 52
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| Posted: Fri 24 Oct, 2003 9:16 pm Post subject: |
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| Manny G wrote: | How about some ray-skin on that handle?
Just kidding... ...or am I?
Sort-of a subdued black & white color scheme on the grip would be nice.
Or a simple, clean black handle.
Just opinions... |
Your right Manny. The grip needs to have more contrast. Either a dark dark color or black will really set those fittings off.
Patrick Hastings
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Ben Sweet
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| Posted: Fri 24 Oct, 2003 10:40 pm Post subject: |
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here are the fittings on the heavy Type XII that I just took late at night....the pommel has 2 coats and the guard 1so I could see the difference, if I dont like how they turn out then back to the glass bead blaster
here is a pic of the glass bead blasted fittings before they were browned
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Patrick Hastings
Industry Professional
Location: West coast USA Joined: 18 Aug 2003
Posts: 52
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| Posted: Sat 25 Oct, 2003 12:42 am Post subject: |
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| Ben Sweet wrote: | | here are the fittings on the heavy Type XII that I just took late at night....the pommel has 2 coats and the guard 1so I could see the difference, if I dont like how they turn out then back to the glass bead blaster |
Hey Ben looks like your having fun. If you have some angular grit rather than Beads you can get a more durable coat and I find it easier to get a uniform color on the first coat this way. Repeated applications and fine steel wool will bring it back up to an almost polished state. 100/120 mesh works great. Something you can play with if you have a blaster set up. It does take some practice to keep it from looking like a rusty mess
Patrick Hastings
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Ben Sweet
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| Posted: Sat 25 Oct, 2003 12:21 pm Post subject: |
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| Patrick Hastings wrote: | | Ben Sweet wrote: | | here are the fittings on the heavy Type XII that I just took late at night....the pommel has 2 coats and the guard 1so I could see the difference, if I dont like how they turn out then back to the glass bead blaster |
Hey Ben looks like your having fun. If you have some angular grit rather than Beads you can get a more durable coat and I find it easier to get a uniform color on the first coat this way. Repeated applications and fine steel wool will bring it back up to an almost polished state. 100/120 mesh works great. Something you can play with if you have a blaster set up. It does take some practice to keep it from looking like a rusty mess |
Hey Patrick, no sand in the machine, only glass for now which works better for fine work and not taking down material...once the fittings are blasted it only takes a few days for rust to be seen, polished fittings I might not see any rust for a couple of weeks depending on which way the ocean blows...I got my hands on some good equipment and hope to have my forge up by the mid to end of next year...so ya gotta come on down for BBQ and pounding once I get going, I need to make noise to p.o my neighbor who tried and failed to stop my house exspansion even with his high $$$ lawyer 
outside pic at 11:30
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Patrick Hastings
Industry Professional
Location: West coast USA Joined: 18 Aug 2003
Posts: 52
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| Posted: Sat 25 Oct, 2003 12:43 pm Post subject: |
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| Ben Sweet wrote: | | Patrick Hastings wrote: | | Ben Sweet wrote: | | here are the fittings on the heavy Type XII that I just took late at night....the pommel has 2 coats and the guard 1so I could see the difference, if I dont like how they turn out then back to the glass bead blaster |
Hey Ben looks like your having fun. If you have some angular grit rather than Beads you can get a more durable coat and I find it easier to get a uniform color on the first coat this way. Repeated applications and fine steel wool will bring it back up to an almost polished state. 100/120 mesh works great. Something you can play with if you have a blaster set up. It does take some practice to keep it from looking like a rusty mess |
Hey Patrick, no sand in the machine, only glass for now which works better for fine work and not taking down material...once the fittings are blasted it only takes a few days for rust to be seen, polished fittings I might not see any rust for a couple of weeks depending on which way the ocean blows...I got my hands on some good equipment and hope to have my forge up by the mid to end of next year...so ya gotta come on down for BBQ and pounding once I get going, I need to make noise to p.o my neighbor who tried and failed to stop my house exspansion even with his high $$$ lawyer
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BBQ yummmmmm
Im not sure you got what I was getting at with the grit. IM not talking about the cleaning properties, but the metal prep for the browning. Bead blasting tends to Micro peen the surface Closeing up the grain. Grit tends to open the grain up and the Browning penetrates deeper into the surface making for a thicker more durable color.
what kind of forge? are you gunna burn coal for your neighbor aswell? hehe Beep Beep Beep the sound of the dumptruck backing in 5 yards of sulfurous coal hehe.
Patrick Hastings
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Ben Sweet
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| Posted: Sat 25 Oct, 2003 1:17 pm Post subject: |
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gas and glory..cheap and clean...unless you wana work the shovel and bellows for me 
these were just test parts to see how different types of polish,basted or wire wheel brushed looked after blueing and browning, so if I bast 'em down again I'll do your way..just gotta document so I dont forget...and find the other pommel which it looks like one of the girls took to play with 
the Super Blue on the pommel + guard I did not care for and should have taken a picture to post..next time
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Joshua Hemingway
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| Posted: Tue 28 Oct, 2003 10:35 am Post subject: |
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I've been meaning to post on theis thread and keep forgetting were it is... to may forums I get lost...
Any way!
Ben; I have the same stuff, and have browned/blued a cross with it and got a much darker purple look than you did.
Here is what I did:
Scotch bright finnish (tho rough), washed with Dawn do degrease.
Pre-heated the oven to 150, oven's off guessing it's closer to 175, just hot anough so they did not spater but were to hot to handle.
Tossed parts in to dry and heat. Let sit abought 10 min.
Used a cotton swab to apply the blueing till it was cool to the touch, buffed with 00 steel whool and rinsed in cold water.
I did that 7-8 times and got a deap purple. I oiled them and let sit over night. I want to re do it, the cross I used was a machine blank and had a lot of surface iregularities, will probly come out better with a better finnish.
Big things difrent are you got a lot hotter than I did, did you do multiple coats or just the one?
J. Hemingway
All Saints Blades
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Ben Sweet
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| Posted: Tue 28 Oct, 2003 5:55 pm Post subject: |
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Hey Joshua, On the browning pics above I did the guard 1x and the pommel 2x
This guard here was just blued cold. I rubbed down the guard with the green pad to clean it up then de-greased. While cold I used a sponge tip soaked with the blueing liquid and rubbed down the guard let sit for a few seconds and repeated 3x cold then cleaned with dishwashing soap and water finished with a coat of Master Formula wax
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This is a standard topic