Polearm haft shapes -- myArmoury.com

Jonathan Hodge · Posted: Wed 30 Sep, 2015 4:18 pm Post subject: Polearm haft shapes

Hello all,

I've been looking over the various haft styles in use on modern pole arm replicas and I'm curious as to how common varying haft shapes were on historical arms. I've seen round shafts used mostly on piercing weapons - like spears or long pointed godendags.

On halberd a and pollaxes I've seen mostly square hafts, but a few rectangular hafts...and this is perhaps where my question lies - were rectangular hafts common on historical halberds? For example, a pollaxe with 1.25" x 1.5" cross section. Thoughts?

Timo Nieminen · Posted: Wed 30 Sep, 2015 6:43 pm Post subject:

Rectangular and flattened octagonal (i.e., rectangular with the corners planed off) were very common. A big advantage of rectangular vs square is that you get a lot more strength in the striking plane without adding as much weight, or making the haft uncomfortably thick. Also, edge alignment.

Both strength and edge alignment are also benefits of oval section vs round. Oval sections are common on East Asian cutting polearms (sword-on-stick dao, naginata, ge).

Cornered sections (rectangular, octagonal, square) vs smooth sections (oval, round) give more resistance to the haft twisting in the hands, but are a little heavier for the same strength and (IMO) can be less versatile in terms of grip.

For twisting resistance along, square or symmetric octagonal vs round are used. For edge alignment alone, you can use a round haft with a raised ridge (often called "teardrop" section).

Jonathan Hodge · Posted: Thu 01 Oct, 2015 5:48 am Post subject:

Thanks Timo. I've already done some test cutting with some shorter blanks to see which I prefer, and I can honestly say that both seem to feel fine in my hand, and that I can't decide on which one to use. At first I was concerned that a 1.25" handle might be too small and risk breaking, but after reading much on this site about the properties of Ash, I'm not too worried.

Timo Nieminen · Posted: Thu 01 Oct, 2015 5:02 pm Post subject:

You can always start with rectangular, and shave off corners later. Harder to go the other way.

Jonathan Hodge · Posted: Thu 01 Oct, 2015 5:51 pm Post subject:

Yeah, I made a blank out of poplar just for handling purposes to see how it feels (and the poplar boards were cheap). 1.5" by 1.25" with a .25" bevel on the corners. It's feeling really good! I have bigger hands, so the grip is good, and the handle feels very solid. 1.25" square with bevel is nice too, but doesn't feel quite as good in the hands, for me anyway. And ultimately, both are historically accurate and that's a major factor too.

Timo Nieminen · Posted: Fri 02 Oct, 2015 9:02 pm Post subject:

I notice in Waldman that oval section is known in halberds, as a minority among the square/rectangular/octagonal majority (later halberds, that is - early ones were often round hafted).

Your haft size and section looks good.

Jonathan Hodge · Posted: Sat 03 Oct, 2015 1:34 pm Post subject:

Thanks again for your input and expertise. I'll be using epoxy as well as peened rivets. Any recommendations on a good epoxy for attaching wood to metal? I've had experience with JB Weld and Gorilla two part epoxy, but not sure if this community, or you, have any better recommendations.

Timo Nieminen · Posted: Sat 03 Oct, 2015 1:58 pm Post subject:

Don't have any epoxy recommendations. Epoxy in the socket, to get the ultimate close fit? I don't think it matters too much what you use there - it will work more as a filler than a glue.

Jonathan Hodge · Posted: Sat 03 Oct, 2015 3:12 pm Post subject:

Definitely planning on an epoxy of some kind in the head socket. I had also planned on putting epoxy down the langets and even in the rivet holes.