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Foong Chen Hong
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 Posted: Sat 12 Oct, 2013 10:18 am Post subject: Crusade period inspired dagger |
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After seeing Boris Bedrosov's longsword project, I get motivated and clear the dust off my grinder to start working on my first blade project.
It is based off this image, the second dagger on below:
Current progress:
Steel type: Carbon Steel 1045
Thickness: 4.5cm
As this is my first blade progress, I'd like to see what's you guys thought, or advice that I can learn from.
Descanse En Paz
Last edited by Foong Chen Hong on Sat 12 Oct, 2013 11:24 am; edited 2 times in total
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Mark Moore
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| Posted: Sat 12 Oct, 2013 10:38 am Post subject: |
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I don't think your pics made it. Give them another try............mcm
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Foong Chen Hong
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| Posted: Sat 12 Oct, 2013 10:45 am Post subject: |
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| Mark Moore wrote: | | I don't think your pics made it. Give them another try............mcm |
I dunno why my pic doesn't work with img tag here, the link work fine with img tag in other forum though...
Descanse En Paz
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Matt Corbin
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Foong Chen Hong
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| Posted: Sat 12 Oct, 2013 11:26 am Post subject: |
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Thanks, I change the host to imgur, which they work.
I also edited the first post with little more info.
Descanse En Paz
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Boris Bedrosov
Industry Professional
Location: Bourgas, Bulgaria Joined: 06 Nov 2005
Posts: 700
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| Posted: Sun 13 Oct, 2013 3:12 pm Post subject: |
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Well, not the best pictures but this doesn't matter anyway.
I would recommend you
* clamp the blank well by any means you've got - C-clamps, F-clamps, vice.... This is for your own safety first
** it's better to use thinner (1 mm) cutting disc instead of the standard 3 mm - the cutting goes faster and cleaner; the grinder works easier
*** in future avoid right angles at the blade / tang transition area, use round instead. In the past the tang was forged, not cut. I know, it's not so essential in short blades (like daggers), but in some future project you might ruin a good sword you've made just because this area is not correct
**** last but not least - wear personal protection - goggles, dust-mask, ear protection, gloves
I'm waiting to see this beauty finished.
And of course, you could ask anytime you want.
"Everyone who has the right to wear a long sword, has to remember that his sword is his soul,
and he has to separate from it when he separates from his life"
Tokugawa Ieyasu
Find my works on Facebook:
Boris Bedrosov's Armoury
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Dean F. Marino
Location: Midland MI USA Joined: 24 Aug 2011
Posts: 229
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| Posted: Sun 13 Oct, 2013 4:02 pm Post subject: Re: Crusade period inspired dagger |
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| Foong Chen Hong wrote: | After seeing Boris Bedrosov's longsword project, I get motivated and clear the dust off my grinder to start working on my first blade project.
It is based off this image, the second dagger on below:
Current progress:
Steel type: Carbon Steel 1045
Thickness: 4.5cm
As this is my first blade progress, I'd like to see what's you guys thought, or advice that I can learn from. |
Maer agoreg (You have made well).... I'm also working on something of this nature - but lack the skill to actually form a blade. My approach - from commercial component offerings.... a Work in Progress (not yet wrapped)....
Not as authentic - I tend to do things like this  .
In edhil, hai edhil. In edain, hai edain.
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Foong Chen Hong
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| Posted: Sun 13 Oct, 2013 7:14 pm Post subject: |
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| Boris Bedrosov wrote: | Well, not the best pictures but this doesn't matter anyway.
I would recommend you
* clamp the blank well by any means you've got - C-clamps, F-clamps, vice.... This is for your own safety first
** it's better to use thinner (1 mm) cutting disc instead of the standard 3 mm - the cutting goes faster and cleaner; the grinder works easier
*** in future avoid right angles at the blade / tang transition area, use round instead. In the past the tang was forged, not cut. I know, it's not so essential in short blades (like daggers), but in some future project you might ruin a good sword you've made just because this area is not correct
**** last but not least - wear personal protection - goggles, dust-mask, ear protection, gloves
I'm waiting to see this beauty finished.
And of course, you could ask anytime you want. |
By right angles you mean the tang is curved, right? I am trying to fix that.
Can you tell me any tip at thinning the blade at diamond grind?
Descanse En Paz
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Boris Bedrosov
Industry Professional
Location: Bourgas, Bulgaria Joined: 06 Nov 2005
Posts: 700
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| Posted: Mon 14 Oct, 2013 12:34 pm Post subject: |
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Yep, I mean this (look at the bottom of the picture)
transitional area. It should be curved, not at right angle.
About the diamond cross-section:
* draw the center line of the blade (you should come to something like this)
** then comes the tricky part - you need to draw another center line, but this time over the thinner surface of your blade - where the cutting edge will be.
If you didn't make the distal taper so far, this step would be quite easy. If you did - you should take several measurement of the thickness alongside the blade and to calculate and mark the middle.
If this is the first blade you make, I personally would recommend you not to make distal taper - then the blade is fairly easy to make, but the experience you would get is invaluable.
*** then you should grind all metal between these to lines. Please, work slow and carefully; you would feel by yourself how to do this exactly. The easiest way is to hold the tool at some angle, but there are some other tricks that are very difficult to be explained - they should be exactly felt.
"Everyone who has the right to wear a long sword, has to remember that his sword is his soul,
and he has to separate from it when he separates from his life"
Tokugawa Ieyasu
Find my works on Facebook:
Boris Bedrosov's Armoury
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James Moore
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| Posted: Mon 14 Oct, 2013 5:16 pm Post subject: |
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| Boris Bedrosov wrote: |
If you didn't make the distal taper so far, this step would be quite easy. If you did - you should take several measurement of the thickness alongside the blade and to calculate and mark the middle.
If this is the first blade you make, I personally would recommend you not to make distal taper - then the blade is fairly easy to make, but the experience you would get is invaluable.
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as a note, I learnt from a friend that its actually really simple to make a distal grind on a diamond section, without having to do any grinding to the flats beforehand
here's a little picture of what I mean - the angles are exaggerated for clarity.
what you do is you grind past the midline - so you mark your line out maybe 5-6mm off to one side, and grind that edge on each side of the blade.
then you mark the midline on the blade, and grind the other side. because you've ground past the midline, when you grind back to there, you're removing material, and the thickness is reduced - distal taper.
I love geometry - its fascinating
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Foong Chen Hong
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| Posted: Tue 15 Oct, 2013 2:59 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for these tips and advice, I will show the shape when I done cutting the final shape out
Descanse En Paz
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Foong Chen Hong
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| Posted: Tue 15 Oct, 2013 4:22 am Post subject: |
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After hours of cutting and grinding, this is how it end up. The blade and tang is indeed curved, my grave mistake, but it is my first time doing this and nothing else I could do but move on.
4.5 CM thick.
(want to try out James's method but afraid failing.
Descanse En Paz
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Foong Chen Hong
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| Posted: Fri 18 Oct, 2013 11:11 am Post subject: |
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Trying out method suggested by James.
Descanse En Paz
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This is a standard topic