[S Ott]

I have been interested in etting a German two-handed flamberge sword, and I have some questions as to what to look for.
Also what is a realistic length or range of length for these swords

[David R. Glier]

Let's try to keep it shorter than seven feet.

I don't know of any quality mass-produced flamberge... my Del Tin 2162 is probably the closest you'll come on the production side.
On the custom side, John Lundemo at Odinblades.com has done several high quality long blades (the zveihander and the no-dachi immediately spring to mind) and Jim Hrisoulas at Atar.com was probably the first custom smith to offer them over the web (that was a long time ago! my goodness, how far we've come...)

[Nathan Robinson]

Unfortunately, the Del Tin isn't a flamberge. Museum Replicas has sold several versionf over the years, and may still have two models available. They're a decent buy for the price.

At this point, I'd proably contact one of the makers in the Czech Republic like Lutel or Vladimir Cervenka, both linked in our links page.

[David R. Glier]

Bah, my baby's prettier than any ugly old flabbarge, and I'll bet she cuts better, too.
I was just trying to set the poor fellow back on the straight and narrow.

[Einar Drønnesund]

[S Ott]

Thanks for the suggestions!

[James Nordstrom]

Shamless plug for a friend.

Art Elwell, http://www.a-work-of-art.net/, currently has a Lutel one instock. I am not sure if it is sold yet, but I did get to handle it this past weekend and liked it. However, it IS a big sword even by my standards.

Cheers
Jim

[S Ott]

I got this off the internet concerning sword lengths:

Measures of the Spada da doi Mane (Two Handed Sword).
The sword should be of the correct measure
With the pommel just under the arm (pit),
As here is written
To avoid any hindrance:
The pommel should be round to fit the closed hand
Do this and you will not be in troubles
And know for sure
That the handle should be a span long
Who has not this measures will be confused
To prevent your mind from being deceived
The hilt should be as long as handle and
pommel ensemble, and you will not be endangered
The hilt is squared and strong as needed
With iron broad and pointed
His duty being to wound and cut
Be sure to note the following:
If using the sword in arme’ (“in plate armor”)
It must be sharp four fingers from the tip
The grip as said above
The pointed hilt, and note this writing

Does this means swords were custom made to the owner?

[Matthew Kelty]

>Does this means swords were custom made to the owner?

I'd say most definitely for the higher end blades. I've not come across any period documentation describing a Cutler's shop and trade, but there are enough references from Fight manuals about the proper length of a blade in proportion to the weilder that you would certainly handle a few different pieces at the cutler and settle on one that behaved properly, and part of the handling characteristics are relative to scale.

I'll see if I can find the quotes, but I think the two I've seen were George Silver and Giacomo DiGrassi. I've love to know who the author was of that description. Where did you find that?

Matthew

P.S. The rules of thumb that I heard of in regards to Zwiehanders is that they should be to just above the bridge of the nose or forehead. Longswords should sit at the sternum (fairly well in keeping with the height of the armpit as you describe), Rapiers to the bottom of the ribcage, and the single sword (of the Renaissance at least) should end just above the ankle when held at the side.

A different measure that I use for single sword is that when your arm is down and the tip is up, it should just sit above your shoulder. This puts the "sweet spot" (usually 2-3 inches from the tip) for a tip slash in a nice comfortable place that corresponds with the terminus of the strongest and most natural arc that your arms operate in (i.e. the distance from quillon to sweet spot is the distance from fingers to the deltoid.

I fear this delves into a separate world of physics and kinetics akin to the harmonic waves described in blade manufacture, so I can only describe it as feeling "right" to have that relationship in place. Too short and it feels like I've exerted to much force for naught, too long and it feels like I'm not maximizing the energy I'm exerting, and hitting "short" of it's potential.

[S Ott]

I got it off the ARMA site
Fillipo Vadi - Liber de Arte Gladitoria de Dimicandi.htm