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Johnson T.





Joined: 12 Aug 2012

Posts: 29

PostPosted: Sun 12 Aug, 2012 7:11 am    Post subject: 'Close Nuff' Aluminium Maille (12thC Normans)         Reply with quote

I'm just a beggar when it comes to all of these items. Who am I to be able to afford such protection? I've decided 12th century is a good compromise between 1066 and the end of the 1200s.

So I've settled for aluminium. Yes, I am fully aware of what I'm getting myself into, but that's the best I can have. I've investigated zinc plated (galvanised steel) maille, but there's lots of hazards and lots of work if you handle it wrong.

So this is what I want to get:

A fully riveted hauberk in the 4 in 1 pattern (although most come in 4 in the 5th, somebody please do clarify on the historical accuracy of this).
16g wire (or lower, but let's be honest 16 is pretty big as most of these cheap mailles come in 18).
8mm rings (or lower, but again, most of them are 10mm. The smaller, the heavier, so the better).

All the little rivet heads, what shape were they?
Flat or rounded wire? Which is more accurate for the period of time?
Length, how long did a hauberk go in this period?
Sleeves, how long did they hang in this period?

Typical suits of aluminium can be 8kg with a coif, I'd like it to be as heavy as possible for an authentic feel. Therefore a thick wire is necessary.

How much bigger does the suit have to be in certain areas than me to allow for PROPER arming cap and arming jacket/gambesons?

Let me know,
Thank you!
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Johnson T.





Joined: 12 Aug 2012

Posts: 29

PostPosted: Mon 27 Aug, 2012 3:40 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Oh please could somebody help? I will give you a cake. Cool
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Brian Robson





Joined: 19 Feb 2007

Posts: 185

PostPosted: Mon 27 Aug, 2012 5:17 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I'm curious as to why you have settled on aluminium yet want it as heavy as possible and authentic as possible. Why not go for plain, non-galvanized steel? As far as I know it's chapter than aluminium.

That said, most common manufactured mail now generally seems to come in 16 gauge for round section rings and18 for flat. For 12c, you probably want to aim for rounds section rings with round headed rivets.
Try to get it as long as you can, ideally just past the knee for that period. Half or full sleeves should be ok, but try to avoid baggy sleeves.

Hope that helps.
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Luka Borscak




Location: Croatia
Joined: 11 Jun 2007
Likes: 7 pages

Posts: 2,307

PostPosted: Mon 27 Aug, 2012 5:58 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

How much would cost you that aluminium mail? This mild steel riveted mail at KoA is not expensive and would fit your period well enough...
http://www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=...7%27+Chest
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Johnson T.





Joined: 12 Aug 2012

Posts: 29

PostPosted: Mon 27 Aug, 2012 6:43 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I can't keep a maille shirt from rusting, I can barely keep my helmets from rusting.
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Matthew Amt




Location: Laurel, MD, USA
Joined: 17 Sep 2003

Posts: 1,456

PostPosted: Mon 27 Aug, 2012 7:19 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Most Indian-made ungalvanized steel mail comes caked in grease, from what I've heard! Rust shouldn't be a problem for a few years, but handling your hauberk, much less wearing it, will leave you gray... If it isn't greasy, spray on a little oil and give it a rub after wearing it.

Galvanized mail is no health hazard at all. I mean, if you decide to burn off the zinc and insist on breathing deeply of the fumes, sure, that's bad, but just wearing it won't hurt you. I just feel that galvanized mail just glares horribly across the battlefield! "LOOK! I'M GALVANIZED!" Won't rust, though.

Mail for the 12th century can (should?) be alternating rows of riveted rings (with round rivets) and solid rings.

I'll add my vote against aluminum, just on general principles!

Good luck!

Matthew
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Brian Robson





Joined: 19 Feb 2007

Posts: 185

PostPosted: Thu 30 Aug, 2012 2:11 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Johnson T. wrote:
I can't keep a maille shirt from rusting, I can barely keep my helmets from rusting.


I spray mine regularly with a ptfe-based lubricant and keep it in a layered thick linen sack, which over time has absorbed much of the oil and so waterproofed itself reasonably well. Some others in our group use wd-40, ballistol and a variety of other oil-based sprays. Usually keep helmets sprayed too (rubbed in with a kitchen spongy-scourer - gently removes any rust that has appeared).
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Roderick Stacey




Location: Ballarat, Australia
Joined: 12 May 2009
Likes: 2 pages
Reading list: 5 books

Posts: 60

PostPosted: Thu 30 Aug, 2012 5:10 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I use sewing machine oil, a light oil and clean the helmet after every use, the light oil does not stink like wd40 or other lubricants.
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Sander Marechal




Location: The Netherlands
Joined: 04 Dec 2009
Reading list: 17 books

Spotlight topics: 1
Posts: 671

PostPosted: Fri 31 Aug, 2012 12:47 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Johnson T. wrote:
I can barely keep my helmets from rusting.


Paint them. Then they won't rust anymore.

The Knights Hospitaller: http://www.hospitaalridders.nl
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James Organ




Location: Seattle Wa
Joined: 25 Jun 2012

Posts: 1

PostPosted: Fri 31 Aug, 2012 12:56 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Johnson

Are you looking at making this mail or buying it?

James
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Johnson T.





Joined: 12 Aug 2012

Posts: 29

PostPosted: Tue 04 Sep, 2012 5:04 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Thanks James, I'm looking to buy it. I'd like to make armour but that would take a lot of work. I make my own shields, but no armour.
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