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Angel Vasilev
Location: Bulgaria Joined: 16 May 2012
Posts: 18
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 Posted: Wed 16 May, 2012 11:46 am Post subject: Question for medieval swords with nut(not nuted form pommel) |
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I have question for the nut, my sword have nut over the pommel.
The tang corsses all long handle and go out trough the pommel and its nutted.
its that problem for the sword fullness?
its possable to broke easly if its nutted? over the pommel?
Sword is 91 sm long
blade long: 74.5 sm
hadle 12.5 sm
Pommel: 3 sm
Cross guard 1 sm
width to the cross guard: 5 sm
width middle of the blade 3 sm
Point of balance: 12 sm from cross guard
Carbon steel 65G, 50 hardness
The nutted swords overthe pommel how many % is fattal for his fullness? and how many % can get broken
here photos
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Timo Nieminen
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| Posted: Wed 16 May, 2012 1:04 pm Post subject: Re: Question for medieval swords with nut |
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| Angel Vasilev wrote: |
The nutted swords overthe pommel how many % is fattal for his fullness? and how many % can get broken
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If it's done properly, it's strong. Not much more likely to break than peened.
But the nut can loosen, and come off. (A peen can loosen, but it won't fall off.)
The problem is that sometimes the nut assembly isn't done properly. Sometimes the grip (and cross, and pommel) don't fit the tang properly, and can move freely unless the nut is very tight (which will compress everything tightly and hold it). This can put extra stress on the tang (and the hilt components).
Sometimes, sometimes even on expensive and supposedly strongly-made swords, the threaded end of the tang is welded on. The better way to do it is to thread the end of the (original, forged/cut with the blade) tang. But people will weld on a little bit of threaded rod. This is not as bad as welding on the whole tang onto a tang-less blade, but it is still bad!
You can always remove the nut, and see what is in there.
If the end of the original tang was threaded, good. If it was, then you know. And you can fix it, if the welded-on section is short enough. Cut the welded-on bit off, cut a thread on the new end of the tang. Shorten the blade by moving the shoulders up, too (perhaps widening the blade end of the tang, rounded join, etc.).
If the hilt components fit badly, you can improve the fit. Epoxy is the easy way.
"In addition to being efficient, all pole arms were quite nice to look at." - Cherney Berg, A hideous history of weapons, Collier 1963.
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Angel Vasilev
Location: Bulgaria Joined: 16 May 2012
Posts: 18
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| Posted: Wed 16 May, 2012 1:42 pm Post subject: |
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Thx for the reply 
i have one more thing to ask
the handle is shaken slightly to the left and right. Can this affect the sword and breaking down in guard? 
or its simple just handle is not hold on correctly? and may be filled with resin, for example?
P.s.: problem is I can not fix it myself
after few years i will buy another batter sword
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Timo Nieminen
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| Posted: Thu 17 May, 2012 12:41 am Post subject: |
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If the handle moves left and right, there is too much space inside the grip core. This means that the grip core isn't supporting the tang, and this makes the sword weaker. This doesn't mean that it will break; it might still be strong enough, even if weaker.
If you can remove the nut, you can check. If you can't remove the nut, you can still fix it, perhaps by filling with epoxy. You can drill a hole, and fill the excess space with epoxy using, for example, a syringe.
"In addition to being efficient, all pole arms were quite nice to look at." - Cherney Berg, A hideous history of weapons, Collier 1963.
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Angel Vasilev
Location: Bulgaria Joined: 16 May 2012
Posts: 18
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| Posted: Thu 17 May, 2012 1:18 am Post subject: |
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Thx for helping answers
i will try to fill up the handle with resin
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