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Maciej K.
Industry Professional
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 Posted: Wed 29 Feb, 2012 1:37 pm Post subject: Looking for sword dimensions (from Musee de l`Armee) |
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Hello, I want to order exact replica of the sword from Musee de l`Armee.
Unfortunately there is no information about this sword. Maybe someone of you can help me.
Maybe in some book was description with dimensions?
Please help me - this is very important for me.
Here you have only picture I have:
and description address: http://www.photo.rmn.fr/cf/htm/CSearchZ.aspx?...6NU0I7FHXQ
Or maybe you know some very similar other swords with full dimensions... it would be helpful.
Medieval Swords - www.artofswordmaking.com
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Scott Woodruff
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| Posted: Fri 02 Mar, 2012 10:40 am Post subject: |
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Based on similar examples I would guess- Blade length- 85-90cm, blade width at base- 5-5.5cm, grip length 16-18cm, cross- 20-23cm, pommel about 5cm diameter, maybe 3-4 cm thick, blades like this are usually fairly thin towards the tip but can be anywhere from 5-8mm thick at the base. Hopefully these ballpark figures are of some help. If you are having a swordsmith of good reputation make the sword for you, it is often a good idea to give him (or her?) some latitude when it comes to dimensions anyway.
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Maciej K.
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Fri 02 Mar, 2012 12:02 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you Scott. yes, I think it will be something like this.
I have made some computer simulation with blade lenght 86cm.
here we have the results:
totall lenght 1077mm
blade lenght 860mm
blade width 58mm
pommel 54x52mm
cross 197x10mm
fuller lenght 526mm
grip (handle without pommel) 143mm
... and the rest of dimensions will be I suppose:
weight circa 1250-1350gr
point of balance circa 110-130mm from the cross
pommel deep 38-40mm
blade thickness 6-7mm to 3mm
So, what do you think about this?
Medieval Swords - www.artofswordmaking.com
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Maciej K.
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Fri 02 Mar, 2012 2:39 pm Post subject: |
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... and final project for bladesmith.
any suggestions?
Medieval Swords - www.artofswordmaking.com
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Scott Woodruff
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| Posted: Tue 12 Jun, 2012 12:01 pm Post subject: |
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Sorry I never got back to you. Looks fantastic and I look forward to future updates.
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David Lewis Smith
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| Posted: Tue 12 Jun, 2012 4:16 pm Post subject: |
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http://www.odinblades.com/
john lundemo
its going to be pricey but worth it
David L Smith
MSG (RET)
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Jeremy V. Krause
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| Posted: Tue 12 Jun, 2012 4:37 pm Post subject: |
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| David Lewis Smith wrote: | http://www.odinblades.com/
john lundemo
its going to be pricey but worth it |
I would choose a smith who concentrates specifically and primarily on historical pieces such as A&A, Jeff Helmes, or Robert Moc.
Leo Todeschini may be another choice, but I haven't seen him produce an earlier example like this, though I am sure he could if put to the task.
Robert Moc might make the most sense as you are in Poland and he is in Czech Republic.
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Craig Peters
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| Posted: Tue 12 Jun, 2012 9:54 pm Post subject: |
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| Maciej K. wrote: | ... and final project for bladesmith.
any suggestions?
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Maciej,
If you look closely, you'll notice the point of your modelled sword is not the same as the point on the original sword. If you are looking for an exact replica, I would change this.
I too would advise a smith who focuses on historical arms. I know John Lundemo does nice work, but historical accuracy is not his strongest point.
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Matt Easton
Location: Surrey, UK. Joined: 30 Jun 2004
Posts: 241
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Craig Peters
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| Posted: Wed 13 Jun, 2012 9:22 am Post subject: |
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The other thing I've noticed is that the rivet block on the end of the antique pommel is much more pronounced. The one in your model is flatter. I prefer the appearance of the original sword; the slightly assymetrical pyramid block is what gives the sword part of its character. At any rate, I would lengthen the rivet block on your model if you want a precise replica.
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Jeremy V. Krause
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| Posted: Wed 13 Jun, 2012 11:58 am Post subject: |
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| Craig Peters wrote: | | The other thing I've noticed is that the rivet block on the end of the antique pommel is much more pronounced. The one in your model is flatter. I prefer the appearance of the original sword; the slightly assymetrical pyramid block is what gives the sword part of its character. At any rate, I would lengthen the rivet block on your model if you want a precise replica. |
Yes, I noticed that about the rivet block as well. I like a pronounced rivet block.
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Ricardo S.
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| Posted: Fri 15 Jun, 2012 7:48 am Post subject: cross guard |
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I could be wrong, but it seems that the cross guard has a ridge at its center. See the difference in light from one side to the other, and the straight line formed in the middle?
SI VIS PACEM, PARA BELLUM
My website:
http://songsha8.wix.com/ricardoartesao
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Robin Smith
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| Posted: Fri 15 Jun, 2012 8:04 am Post subject: |
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| Craig Peters wrote: | | Maciej K. wrote: | ... and final project for bladesmith.
any suggestions?
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Maciej,
If you look closely, you'll notice the point of your modelled sword is not the same as the point on the original sword. If you are looking for an exact replica, I would change this. |
To me the original looks like it has seen quite a bit of honing. The tip may have had a different profile when new.
I do agree with Ricardo that the cross seems to have a ridge at the center.
A furore Normannorum libera nos, Domine
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This is a standard topic