[Bryson Cadle]

Hello, I've been wanting to get a good historical replica of a something a Dane or Saxon might have used during the 8th-11th century? Really liked a couple of hanwei's axes, but not to keen on that faux antique finish. I don't want to go to crazy and spend over $200.

http://www.arms-armor.com/

http://www.reenactors-shop.de/

Anyone have any experience with these companies or have any recommendations?
The german company looks appealing in that I can buy just the axe head and maybe save on shipping. I wonder how hard it would be to find a good axe handle after?

Thanks for any help, I've been using the search function and that's how I found these links in the first place and figure I could try and post.

I would like an axe that I could show someone and say its a pretty accurate historical representation of something you might find back in the day. Thanks.

[Bryce Felperin]

Depends upon if you want a "good looking" axe versus a "good performing" one. If you want the later than skip Hanwei. Their axes are overbuilt and too heavy unless you like clearing brush with them. Likewise with Cold Steel and Museum Replicas.

For my money I would go with Arms & Armor at http://www.arms-n-armor.com/

I would recommend you try this one to start with: http://www.arms-n-armor.com/pole213.html or this one http://www.arms-n-armor.com/pole104.html perhaps.

Having never bought items from the other two links you posted, I really can't comment on those.

[Craig Peters]

Some of the axes from the second webpage look far too thick. They look more like modern day tool axes than actual Viking weapons.

The other A&A axe you should consider is their classic Danish War Axe: http://www.arms-n-armor.com/pole024.html

[Jeremy V. Krause]

It should be pointed out that though A&A does make fine axes that approximate the appearance of period examples they do differ in some significant ways.

The main issue is that their axe blade body and edges continue from the socket with the same thickness up to the edge. Period examples usually start from the socket thick then transition to a thin body body before expanding again into the edge section.

The reason for this is that the body of historical examples would have been iron and a steel edge was welded onto this. This thicker edge section also gives strength to this section.

So while the A&A axes have a fairly accurate profile and handling characteristics, the cross section of the axe blades is inaccurate. Perchasing a more accurate example would be quite a bit more expensive in general. Still, I have an A&A Danish axe and I do like it while keeping limitations in mind.

[R D Moore]

Most of these axes would be outside your targeted price point, but for the sake of comparison, check out this thread by Jim Austin. These axes are made in the manner they were "back in the day" and are faithful recreations.
http://forums.dfoggknives.com/index.php?showt...d1ecf99beb

He may even have something close to what you're looking for.

[William P]

if you want the axe for reenacting, manning imperial has a decent selection
http://manningimperial.com/list.php?start=5&a...group_id=1

[Bryson Cadle]

Oh ya I forgot about manning imperial. How come his axes seem so rounded?

Steel edge forge welded onto an iron body would be nice. I've seen some descriptions where they say welded construction from 2 or 3 parts. Its too bad you can't see something in person.

[David Huggins]

I would deeply recommend Mark Routledge of Wessex Wildcraft who is not only a blade and axe smith but works in bushcraft and knows his way around an axe.

http://www.wessexwildcraft.com/photo-gallery

best
Dave