Windlass Town Guard sword? -- myArmoury.com

Ben Welch · Posted: Fri 30 Apr, 2010 4:41 am Post subject: Windlass Town Guard sword?

I've been eyeing it for some time now, but I'm allways nervous about windlass swords and how iffy I've heard they are. Has anyone had any experience with this piece?

Sean Flynt · Posted: Fri 30 Apr, 2010 8:48 am Post subject:

The price difference between the Windlass "Munich" sword and the A&A Town Guard sword appears to be well-justified. Having said that, $209 (KOA: http://kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=501144 ) isn't bad for a piece that doesn't appear to have many outrageous errors. It could be improved by a crafty owner. If you want a sword of this type and can't get the A&A, I don't think there are any other options. One good thing is that the tang appears to be thicker than some Windlass swords. The A&A blade is quite thick and stiff. There is some variation in hilt details among originals, so if you look around you might get a better idea of how well the Windlass stays within historical specifications.

Julien M · Posted: Fri 30 Apr, 2010 11:27 am Post subject:

Sean Flynt · Posted: Fri 30 Apr, 2010 1:06 pm Post subject:

The problems I see are, I think, well within your ability to fix. The edges of the bars need to be a bit more rounded and thinned. I'd slope the shoulders of the blade. The escussion should be thinned so that it slopes toward the blade. I'd redo the grip, shortening it by about 1" (notice that in every case below the knucklebow terminus is level with either the lower part or middle of the pommel). Many of the pommels on this type are of fat lenticular section rather than round, you could grind or file this one without too much trouble but I think round section is within the realm of possibility. I'd blue the hilt furniture because this appears to have been the typical original finish of these field swords. I'll be bluing my A&A eventually.

Here are some of the images I've collected. Note that the last one in the second set below is Wallace A612--You can just stroll (or ride and stroll) across town and study it in the round (lucky!).

If I were headed to London I'd be happy to bring you one! If you wait a bit and watch the MRL "Deal of the Day" you might be able to get one shipped for a reasonable total price.

Sean Flynt · Posted: Fri 30 Apr, 2010 1:09 pm Post subject:

more:

Maurizio D'Angelo · Posted: Fri 30 Apr, 2010 2:00 pm Post subject:

If one is a sword's maker, but also a scholar, I think it isn't bad taste to criticize another sword.
If this sword can not look good is to say, as is well praise a job well done. This is my opinion.
Perhaps not everyone here will understand, but who needs to understand, understand. Cool

Julien M · Posted: Sun 02 May, 2010 12:56 am Post subject:

Sean Flynt · Posted: Mon 03 Jan, 2011 11:20 am Post subject:

OK, Julien, et al.: This one just hit the MRL "Deal of the Day" bin for $132! I'm sorely tempted to get one, review it and fix it up, but...must...resist.......too many...projects....

But maybe one of you folks will give it a try.

http://www.museumreplicas.com/p-729-munich-sword.aspx

Sean Flynt · Posted: Mon 03 Jan, 2011 11:49 am Post subject:

Ahhhh...who am I kidding? I bought it. Blush

Well, what good is a grinder if you don't use it? And this gives me a counterweight to a formal A&A Town Guard review plus a new project foray into complex hilts. This goes to the back of a long line, though. Summer, maybe.

Richard Eskite · Posted: Mon 03 Jan, 2011 12:30 pm Post subject: I wonder...

how this sword would work left handed. Always a problem for me with complex hilts.

Sean Flynt · Posted: Mon 03 Jan, 2011 12:47 pm Post subject: Re: I wonder...

Eric W. Norenberg · Posted: Mon 03 Jan, 2011 12:50 pm Post subject:

Sean Flynt · Posted: Mon 03 Jan, 2011 1:07 pm Post subject:

Stephen Wheatley · Posted: Mon 03 Jan, 2011 1:07 pm Post subject: Resisting a bargain

Ha ha, hilarious Sean, its murder having more projects on the go than time! I very much look forward to seeing your finished hilt, will no doubt spur me on to try and finish the grips and turk's heads on all the stuff I've got lying around unfinished!

Sean Flynt · Posted: Mon 03 Jan, 2011 1:15 pm Post subject: Re: Resisting a bargain

Stephen Wheatley · Posted: Mon 03 Jan, 2011 1:15 pm Post subject: Shortening the handle

Remembered that I own one of these, just dug it out for an inspection re Sean's comments. The handle is a bit cheap looking and the knuckle bow should extend an inch or so up the pommel; having said that I don't see shortening the grip as a solution - its under 3&1/2'' just, (8.5cm). The bow itself might be hammered and extended - quite a job. Good juck with it Sean. I'm confident you'll improve it tenfold.

Sean Flynt · Posted: Mon 03 Jan, 2011 1:23 pm Post subject: Re: Shortening the handle

Gary B. Ledford · Posted: Tue 04 Jan, 2011 8:17 pm Post subject:

Haha when I saw it yesterday Sean I had a feeling you might pick one up. I almost did myself. Let us know how the thickness of the ricasso and tang on that one are please; I may consider getting one when they hit the deal of the day again. I have no problem altering windlass swords to suit my own ends, in terms of squaring shoulders and the like.

Sean Flynt · Posted: Wed 05 Jan, 2011 8:03 pm Post subject:

Mine arrived today, and I'm pleasantly surprised, overall. I'll comment a bit and post some quick photos in the morning. For now I'll say it's definitely worth the Deal of the Day price, maybe just worth the MRL list price as-is and has potential to be worth even more than that with some well-researched and carefully executed upgrades.

I won't spoil a formal review, but here are some key points worth considering if you get a chance to buy one before a formal review is ready--very good balance and weight but uncomfortable to hold/use due to overbuilt bars and sharp edges, especially in the quillon block. The grip can indeed be shortened the required amount (~1") to correct the hilt proportions and get the grip to historical length. The ricasso is appropriately robust and the blade is appropriately stiff. The pommel is massive--far too large and rounded, and with a foot that significantly oversteps even the raised part of the grip binding (faux turks' heads).

What To Expect When You're Expecting a Stantler Field Sword: Significantly flatten the pommel on a grinder and narrow the foot and nut, thin and soften the edges of the outside bars, finger rings, knucklebow and quillon block, add simple filed detail to guard terminals, slope the shoulders of the blade, narrow the lower third of the blade, create shorter, wire-bound grip and turks heads, blacken hilt.

Do all of that well, with close attention to documented originals, and I think you'd have a sword with a fair value of $350-$400. Add a good scabbard and suspension--maybe $450-$500.

Hadrian Coffin · Industry Professional

Hello,
The inside (back) of the guard on the Museum Replicas sword looks quite bad. It would be very difficult to correct. I haven't seen any historical examples in which the three bars converge in such a manner.