[Jon Wolfe]

My study group is going to be moving on from fencing with the single rapier, to a rapier paired with another weapon: dagger, rotella, cape, etc. So, I find myself on a search on how to make a cape that is made to look and act like what an origin piece would behave, from the time of Capoferro's and Fabris's manuals, so early to mid 1600s, but not necessarily made of historically accurate materials. So, for those who may have gone down this same road before, what suggestions might you have for me? I've looked around online for templates and designs, and have found something that seems reasonable enough. I'm looking to make the equivalent of what a blunt training sword would be, compared to a sharpened steel sword, so I'm not really looking to make anything that is 100% historically accurate to match a kit that I'm putting together, just something that could hold up to training and free-play. I'm prepared to throw out my own research, should someone suggest anything that's better than I've been able to dig-up so far, so please, any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[Jon Wolfe]

Forgot to mention some of the materials I was considering: Duck Cloth, Burlap, Outdoor Canvas, and Felt.

[Steven H]

[Jon Wolfe]

Fulled Wool, eh? I've never heard of that, does it happen to go by any other names? I did get an amount of micro suede, I haven't touched it with scissors, needle or thread, yet. So, I could still return it if that may not be the right choice.

[Glennan Carnie]

Fulling is a process done to the wool after weaving, whereby the nap is raised and felted to increase the water-resistance of the wool.

A fulled wool tends to look felted and uniform:

Not fulled:



Fulled:



(Oh, and at $6 / yard I'd stay away from any naked flames as the wool is likely to have a high synthetic content! Not that that should be a problem when fencing)

[Steven H]

[Steven H]

[Jessica Finley]

Links to fabrics are always helpful. http://www.fabric.com/apparel-fashion-fabric-...abric.aspx

This is a wool blend (sometimes they carry 100%, just not right now) that is a very good weight for a cloak, and if you wash it in hot water and dry it on high in the drier before making your garment, you don't need to line or sew the edges. It fulls well enough with that simple process that it enables you to make period edge treatments.

For you, however, as a new sewer, this is a boon as all you must do is simply buy enough yardage (for a 16th c. cloak that's only 2 yards), fold it into quarter and cut your 1/4 circle on the proper sides. Cut a similar and small 1/4 circle on the point of the folds, slit down the center, and you have your cape. Add ties as a finish, if you actually wish to wear it.... maybe a collar if you want to go even further, and voila!

Simple simple simple. You can do this with little-to-no sewing, if you use the right fabric.

enjoy!
Jess

[Bill Grandy]

Now, I don't want to push you away from making something historically accurate (as I'm all about people going the accuracy route), but since you're just looking for something for free play, almost anything will work. The material needs to have a little bit of weight to it (so a single layer bed sheet might be too light, for example), but otherwise almost any large sheet of cloth will be just fine for rapier and cape techniques to work.

[Jon Wolfe]

Ok, so could I get an amount of wool or wool felt and just use that hot washing and drying process, and get good results? I live really close to Joann store, so acquiring the material is only a matter of a short car ride, so no having to pay and wait for shipping.

[Scott Hrouda]

[Zach Gordon]

Wouldn't some thick fleece work? The kind that kids make scarves and stuff out of. I saw someone do a demo of this at a renfair and that's what they used. It dries quick, doesn't fray at all, and is similarish to wool. It's also like $2-3 a yard or less
Z

[Sander Marechal]

[Jessica Finley]

[Christopher Treichel]

go to a thrift store... $5 wool blanket or if you get lucky brocade curtains or even luckyer you might find an opera cape in the ladies section.

[Christopher Treichel]

[Steven H]

[Christopher Treichel]

Cheaply felted? The only felted wool blankets I have ever seen have been from Kyrgistan and you could almost consider them carpets. Unless your referring to that polyester felt which doesn't count.

The average wool blanket you will find at thrift stores will either be old army blankets which are woven or say a sears blanket from the 50s which are also woven both should have a tag that will give you the fabric contents... If you find one that says Hudson Bay I would not cut it up. Both will be plenty strong. The exception to this will be the poly wool blankets from the 70's through present which are mostly polyester junk. If you have any doubt about the consistency of cloth... these days Jo-Ann Fabrics rarely sells 100% wool... Hancock still does but in both cases I would grab a few threads and go outside to test them with a lighter... if it melts, it has plastic in it and is no good.

[Bill Grandy]

I agree with Christopher. I used a piece of flannel that I found in some junk store for a couple of bucks for several years for fencing with cloak. Honestly, as long as the material isn't too ridiculously light or flimsy, almost any cloth will work just fine for the sake of fencing. Heck, you could get away with a beach towel, and I've seen those on sale for $1 before.

If you want a nice cloak to actually wear, well, that's a different story. It all depends on exactly what you want.

[Jon Wolfe]

Thank you all very much for your time, but I think I'm going to stick with my micro suede, for its fray resistance, but mainly because I've already bought it. If one day I do wish to make an historically accurate cape, I'll definitely remember the information you all have imparted to me. Again, thank you all very much.