[Don Halter]

I see a lot of threads mention persons wanting seax type blades. What historical based designs/materials do y'all like best? If you put together your "ultimate seax" what would it be?

[Timothy Gulics]

Eric McHugh's brescia seax is in tune with the type of seax's I'd like to own. I'm more partial to the decorative elements, though.. perhaps some braided leather grip, studs of some sort... hmm.

[Mark Moore]

As a small-time backyard bladesmith, I just completed a seax for my employer. The blade is about fourteen inches in length, with the typical straight edge and sharp, straight clip. I did a bit of filework on the spine, and hilted it with off-white Corion slabs, pinned to the full tang with two rivets that I made myself . The whole package came out looking great....especially the grip, which looks like ancient bone. The blade was made by stock-removal from an old Philipino bolo machete with an excellent temper. I beat the blade with the round end of a ball-pein hammer until it had dimples all throughout, with only the cutting edge being polished. I think that the simple, understated, pure utilitarian look is best for a seax. These knives were not purely weapons, nor were they just 'camp knives'....they were blades that the owners used to survive....by any means. No doubt some were ornamented, but for the most part, I feel that the seax was the equal to a Viking of what a good pocket knife is to a modern workman. Sweet and simple, good looking, yet rugged....and always hella SHARP. I say....keep it simple.....straight edge, sharp clip, basic grip, .....and a period-style suspension scabbard. If yer gonna tote one...do it right.

[Scott Byler]

I kind of like the form of seax as in the attached picture. Horn or antler for a handle, more or less a straight edge... I don't really have a favorite type overall, though... Probably because I find all the various types of seax interesting in some degree. (Good thing since I make one or 2 now and then for folks).

[Jamie Boley]

Most of the people that I talk with who order seaxes, want a straight cutting edge from one end to the other, and a straight clip. My preference for making them, for use and for aesthetics, is to have a slightly rounded clip and and the last little bit of the cutting edge curve upwards. It thickens the point just right and, to me, lets the blade flow more rather than have sharp angles.

I will only do wood, antler, or horn for the handle. Anything else just doesn't suit my preferences.

I'll do most longsaxes out of 5160. Shorter blades are usually 1095 or W1. L6 has made appearances in all ranges. O1 as well. Pattern welded blades seem to add just the right touch.

Jamie

[Don Halter]

I'm kinda partial to the broken back, slender bladed ones. I like just a slight upsweep to the blade near the tip for the same reasons Jamie stated. I like runes, and other inlay, but not fullers...maybe a very thin chiseled line.

[Aaron Justice]

My type of seax is more war based than utilitarian, though no doubt it would make an excellent machete or wood splitter if need be.

Here's a drawing of what I am having custom made.

[Don Halter]

Cool! I started on a langseax with an interrupted twist the other day. It *was* going to be a 26" blade with a long tapering point. I messed up the twists, went back and tried to correct the problem and completely messed it up! Now I will have a few small utilitarian seaxes with various twist/cheveron type patterns.