| Author |
Message |
|
Nathan F
|
 Posted: Mon 08 Jun, 2009 11:38 am Post subject: where is the pollaxe? |
 |
|
hello all,
basically i have seen poll axes that are blunted and all properly wieghted etc for use in sparring reenacting and the like but does anyone know anywhere to find such a think. i want one and i want to train with it. i love all things axe related and i think there a much neglected weapon
please someone help me
thanks for any help,
nathan
for here starts war carrion birds sing, and grey wolves howl
|
|
  |
 |
Alex Spreier
|
| Posted: Mon 08 Jun, 2009 3:35 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Are you looking for a steel pollaxe trainer or just a pollaxe trainer in general?
For a "regular" (Non-steel) trainer, the first place to start would be with this thread: http://www.myArmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=16099
The trainer's that I use are the polehammer trainers from Purpleheart Armoury.
As far as a steel trainer goes, I know that Arms & Armour allows you to choose to have one of their pollaxes made with blunt edges.
Of course, use proper* control and safety equipment for training with pollaxes. Remember that they are percussion weapons - even when blunt or made of rubber, they pack a wallop!
*I recognize that "proper equipment" varies. Use common sense.
Hope this helps!
Compagno, Northwest Fencing Academy
http://bunkaijuju.blogspot.com/
|
|
|
|
|
David E. Farrell
Location: Evanston, IL Joined: 25 Jun 2007
Posts: 156
|
| Posted: Wed 10 Jun, 2009 9:07 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Alex Spreier wrote: | Are you looking for a steel pollaxe trainer or just a pollaxe trainer in general?
For a "regular" (Non-steel) trainer, the first place to start would be with this thread: http://www.myArmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=16099
The trainer's that I use are the polehammer trainers from Purpleheart Armoury.
As far as a steel trainer goes, I know that Arms & Armour allows you to choose to have one of their pollaxes made with blunt edges.
Of course, use proper* control and safety equipment for training with pollaxes. Remember that they are percussion weapons - even when blunt or made of rubber, they pack a wallop!
*I recognize that "proper equipment" varies. Use common sense.
|
Yep - the purpleheart pollaxes are nice - especially after you tape the rondels in place so they don't move around.
That said, I believe there is an SCA supplier who made more 'axe-like' heads that would be suitable. Mandrake Arms I believe. From what I recall though - they are not always available and they don't have much of a bec.
As for training with them, I'll paraphrase something that Christian Tobler said at WMAW '07: 'once you get something that is the right size, shape and weight of a pollaxe, it *is* a pollaxe, regardless of what it is made of'
AKA: 'Sparky' (so I don't need to explain later  )
For he today that sheds his blood with me shall be my brother
-- King Henry, Henry V, William Shakespeare
Before I came here I was confused about this subject. Having listened to your lecture I am still confused... but on a higher level.
-- Enrico Fermi
|
|
|
|
|
Alex Spreier
|
| Posted: Wed 10 Jun, 2009 9:43 am Post subject: |
|
|
| David E. Farrell wrote: | | That said, I believe there is an SCA supplier who made more 'axe-like' heads that would be suitable. Mandrake Arms I believe. From what I recall though - they are not always available and they don't have much of a bec. |
Oh yeah I forgot about these (oops!) . I have always found them at Windrose Armoury: http://www.windrosearmoury.com/zc/index.php?m...ucts_id=90
| David E. Farrell wrote: | | As for training with them, I'll paraphrase something that Christian Tobler said at WMAW '07: 'once you get something that is the right size, shape and weight of a pollaxe, it *is* a pollaxe, regardless of what it is made of' |
I like that! That's funny, I was in that class and I don't remember him saying that. Oh well, all I can add to that is a hearty "Amen!".
Compagno, Northwest Fencing Academy
http://bunkaijuju.blogspot.com/
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hendrik De Coster
|
| Posted: Fri 12 Jun, 2009 4:00 am Post subject: |
|
|
as for as i've heard kasto makes some nice ones
http://www.kasto.org/123-poleaxe.html
i've made one on my own a couple years ago but that one's far from authentic and only used to have safe fights
|
|
  |
|
David E. Farrell
Location: Evanston, IL Joined: 25 Jun 2007
Posts: 156
|
| Posted: Fri 12 Jun, 2009 7:31 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Alex Spreier wrote: |
I like that! That's funny, I was in that class and I don't remember him saying that. Oh well, all I can add to that is a hearty "Amen!". |
I may be remembering wrong - I think he said it at the beginning of class as he was discussing the nature of the weapon and basically that one really can't make a "safe" pollaxe trainer without it not being at all like a pollaxe.
AKA: 'Sparky' (so I don't need to explain later )
For he today that sheds his blood with me shall be my brother
-- King Henry, Henry V, William Shakespeare
Before I came here I was confused about this subject. Having listened to your lecture I am still confused... but on a higher level.
-- Enrico Fermi
|
|
|
|
|
Jean Thibodeau
|
| Posted: Fri 12 Jun, 2009 10:13 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| David E. Farrell wrote: | | Alex Spreier wrote: |
I like that! That's funny, I was in that class and I don't remember him saying that. Oh well, all I can add to that is a hearty "Amen!". |
I may be remembering wrong - I think he said it at the beginning of class as he was discussing the nature of the weapon and basically that one really can't make a "safe" pollaxe trainer without it not being at all like a pollaxe. |
Getting the balance right seems impossible to do: If the POB is right on one has to make everything extra light otherwise training poleaxes are as dangerous and indistinguishable from a real poleaxe in dangerosity ! ( might be made of soft rubber but heavy still hits as heavy, the only difference might be the hardness of the hitting surfaces and the lack of sharp edges ).
In other words to get the balance right and not have it dangerous the whole thing has to be made too light.
A wooden poleaxe waster of moderate weight will balance much closer to the middle of the haft than with a real poleaxe but is still dangerous, so one can only train with great control or with a lot of protection even if light taps are allowed.
You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
|
|
|
|
|
Alex Spreier
|
| Posted: Fri 12 Jun, 2009 10:58 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| David E. Farrell wrote: | | I may be remembering wrong - I think he said it at the beginning of class as he was discussing the nature of the weapon and basically that one really can't make a "safe" pollaxe trainer without it not being at all like a pollaxe. |
That sounds about right, I do remember Christian saying something like that. Yeah it's the question of "How do you armour-up for a weapon designed to defeat armour?"
Compagno, Northwest Fencing Academy
http://bunkaijuju.blogspot.com/
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hendrik De Coster
|
| Posted: Sat 13 Jun, 2009 1:29 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Alex Spreier wrote: | | David E. Farrell wrote: | | I may be remembering wrong - I think he said it at the beginning of class as he was discussing the nature of the weapon and basically that one really can't make a "safe" pollaxe trainer without it not being at all like a pollaxe. |
That sounds about right, I do remember Christian saying something like that. Yeah it's the question of "How do you armour-up for a weapon designed to defeat armour?" |
ah, i've fought with my pollaxe againts lots of armoured opponents, a 15th century full plate is enough protection for the blows and stabs, just make sure you control them
|
|
|
|
|
David E. Farrell
Location: Evanston, IL Joined: 25 Jun 2007
Posts: 156
|
| Posted: Sat 13 Jun, 2009 6:11 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Jean Thibodeau wrote: |
A wooden poleaxe waster of moderate weight will balance much closer to the middle of the haft than with a real poleaxe but is still dangerous, so one can only train with great control or with a lot of protection even if light taps are allowed. |
totally agreed.
It is telling to look at the SCA heavy combat rules for such weapons - they have fairly strict rules on how far something can be swung as well as how much 'give' it must have and the demonstrated control & targeting of the user. And even then, people wearing over-built helms and body armour (compared to most historical examples) still get injured.
So, like everything, control, and an understanding of what the weapon can do is the best safety net - though I would probably go a step further and not engage in full-on free play with one (even in armour - I'd rather be cautious than paralyzed).
AKA: 'Sparky' (so I don't need to explain later )
For he today that sheds his blood with me shall be my brother
-- King Henry, Henry V, William Shakespeare
Before I came here I was confused about this subject. Having listened to your lecture I am still confused... but on a higher level.
-- Enrico Fermi
|
|
|
|
|
Alex Spreier
|
| Posted: Sat 13 Jun, 2009 9:02 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Hendrik De Coster wrote: | | ah, i've fought with my pollaxe againts lots of armoured opponents, a 15th century full plate is enough protection for the blows and stabs, just make sure you control them |
I agree that control is an absolute. I wasn't speaking to free-play or how much of a wallop an axe gives, I was just musing on the fact that the pollaxe was designed to defeat armour - the spikes, the hammer or blade, the fluke, and the long haft - all of these make stopping a guy in armour that little bit easier. Just my 2 cents.
| David E. Farrell wrote: | | So, like everything, control, and an understanding of what the weapon can do is the best safety net - though I would probably go a step further and not engage in full-on free play with one (even in armour - I'd rather be cautious than paralyzed). |
Amen. *nods vigorously* 
Compagno, Northwest Fencing Academy
http://bunkaijuju.blogspot.com/
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
This is a standard topic