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P. Cha
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 Posted: Tue 13 Jan, 2009 6:50 pm Post subject: Hanwei Tinkerline Bastard Sword |
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Hanwei Tinker line Bastard Sword
The Stats
Overall Length: 42.5 Inches
Blade Length: 33 inches
Weight: 2 lb 14 ounces
PoB: 4 inches
CoP: 22 inches
The Pictures
The scabbard
Well the leather is a decent quality on the scabbard. The metal parts are plain but done well enough. The sword fits in very nicely...however I am unsure that the core is. It is kinda light to be wood so it maybe fiberglass like the longsword...but I can't tell because...the throat is very annoying and has the metal enclose the blade and it makes that annoying "shreek" sound you hear in the movies when you draw your blade.
The Blade
Okay now the important part of the sword. The blade is heat treated VERY well. I'm quite pleased with this aspect of the blade. However, the blade has quite an obvious secondary bevel. It's VERY agressive and while this allows one to shave paper with, it makes for a HORRIBLE cutting edge. Other then this rather blip, it does have a good blade geometry for it's type. The finish on the blade is a VERY course "satin" finish. Not sure I can call this satin without the quotes.
Fit and Finish
Okay so the blade obvious has a very crude finish to it...but the pommel and cross does not. They are cast and polished perfectly...TOO perfectly. They kinda shine as if made from nickle or stainless steel. However, they are made very well and everything fits very nice. This is the best fit I have seen in a sub 300 sword yet. The leather on the handle is like the scabbard and once again of decent quality. The grip on this sword is also on the small side so those with big hands may have issues with the grip. I however love it and it fits my hands very well.
Handling
I personally love how this sword handles one handed. It moves almost like an XVIII arming sword. It is very quick and agile with good point control. It doesn't quite dance like my Albion Crecy does...but it REALLY wants to. Two handed however...it's all suddenly feels too light. Too insubstantial. I can do the lightning fast changes with it, but it feels like the sword is getting tossed around and there is nothing behind it.
Historical Accuracy
Okay so it's threaded...thats a penalty. Secondary bevel...can't over look that. And that pommel just doesn't looks quite right.... Otherwise this is a historically plausible XVIIIa.
Value for the Money
Well at around 300 dollars, I'm fairly happy with this sword. Overall it's a small project sword. Redo the blade's edge and finish, hot blue the cross and pommel. Maybe reshape the pommel and cross. Redo the grips. I can't say you should get this sword instead of saving up for a better sword because this sword just isn't that good. After all another 150 gets you an Atrim. However this is one of the best sub 300 western sword yet...i.e. yes this is very good value for the money.
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JE Sarge
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Wed 14 Jan, 2009 12:32 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for posting. I've been wondering about these. 
All in all, it does seems like a fairly good deal for a WMA student wanting a practical cutter; yet can have the exact same sword as a blunt. I do like the blade form/flared shoulders on the longsword a little more for personal reasons. It also seems like these would make a decent platform for some customization work.
I'd definately do something immediately about the metal locket however to prevent damage to the edge - even if you are planning on a redo down the road. You might want to file/sand/Dremel out the area making contact with the blade.
The temptation is too great for me. I think I might just have to order one.
J.E. Sarge
Crusader Monk Sword Scabbards and Customizations
www.crusadermonk.com
"But lack of documentation, especially for such early times, is not to be considered as evidence of non-existance." - Ewart Oakeshott
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P. Cha
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| Posted: Wed 14 Jan, 2009 9:44 pm Post subject: |
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I just re-did the edge and I'm much happier about it now. And the blade looks better to boot. Even at 120 grit, it's a huge difference.
That is at 220 grit and you can see the blade finish is a lot better and no more secondary bevel  . I'll have to try cutting with it tommarow.
As for the scabbard...yeah I need to figure something out...I REALLY don't like the throat of the sccabard at all.
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Christopher H
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| Posted: Thu 15 Jan, 2009 3:08 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the review! I'm looking forward to hear about how it cuts.
Just a question, though, how did you touch up the edge?
Thanks!
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P. Cha
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| Posted: Thu 15 Jan, 2009 4:30 pm Post subject: |
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Well I used a flatbar and sand paper. 120 first, then 220. Basically you round off the secondary bevel to get the apple seed with it. The easiest way for me was to use the flat bar perpendicular to the blade with the angle at what the main body of the blade is. Then as you draw down, match the angle to the secondary bevel. Getting the edge doesn't take that long...but redoing the finish takes a bit longer. You can get the edge done in about 1-2 hours if you know what your doing and your looking at 2-3 hours for the finish. Course powertools can make this go faster but I like the control you have doing it this way.
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P. Cha
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| Posted: Thu 15 Jan, 2009 5:54 pm Post subject: |
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Well I just did some cutting with the new edge. It's better but still needs some fine tuning. That bevel is just too aggressive, and since I match the angle of my appleseed to it, it's still off. Kinda bugging the bejeezers outa me. I would have much preferred the dull edge that was on the longsword vs this uber sharp edge that is just no good at all. At least a dull edge is easy to fix...this edge is turning out to be a major issue to fix.
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M. Eversberg II
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| Posted: Thu 15 Jan, 2009 6:35 pm Post subject: |
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Is this the same kind of edge on the longsword?
M.
This space for rent or lease.
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Christopher H
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| Posted: Thu 15 Jan, 2009 11:07 pm Post subject: |
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| P. Cha wrote: | | Well I used a flatbar and sand paper. 120 first, then 220. Basically you round off the secondary bevel to get the apple seed with it. The easiest way for me was to use the flat bar perpendicular to the blade with the angle at what the main body of the blade is. Then as you draw down, match the angle to the secondary bevel. Getting the edge doesn't take that long...but redoing the finish takes a bit longer. You can get the edge done in about 1-2 hours if you know what your doing and your looking at 2-3 hours for the finish. Course powertools can make this go faster but I like the control you have doing it this way. |
Thanks a lot!
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P. Cha
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| Posted: Fri 16 Jan, 2009 11:37 pm Post subject: |
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| M. Eversberg II wrote: | Is this the same kind of edge on the longsword?
M. |
From what Mike Harris reported about his tinker longsword, I believe them to have very different edges. He reported his as being dull...while this one is uber sharp. He just need to touch his up...mine needs a rework of the geometry something fierce. So I think they listened to the complaints abou their dull edge from the long sword...but unfortunately messed things up in the process :P .
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Michael Pearce
Industry Professional
Location: Seattle, Wa. Joined: 21 Feb 2004
Posts: 365
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| Posted: Mon 26 Jan, 2009 8:34 am Post subject: |
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Yeah, edges are turning out to be a bit of a problem. An 'appleseed edge' was originally on the menu for these swords but doing this on a production basis where hundreds of swords are produced in a 'run' turned out to be a bit of a nightmare. I've brought the problems with the edge to CAS/H's attention and they are working on a fix. My recommendation to fix the edge is a 'medium' grade Diamond-hone (tm) this works very well and quite quickly to modify the edge geometry and does less harm to the blade's finish.
Also- the cores of all the scabbards in this line are fiberglass- wood turned out to be just too much of a problem for production. I'll mention the scabbard throat to CAS/H as well- this doesn't look like a big problem to fix.
Michael 'Tinker' Pearce
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Then one night, as my car was going backwards through a cornfield at 90mph, I had an epiphany...
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M. Eversberg II
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| Posted: Mon 26 Jan, 2009 7:33 pm Post subject: |
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Mike, let us know when the edges have been resolved. I've been considering a longsword for a while, but don't want a bad edge on it.
M.
This space for rent or lease.
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Michael Pearce
Industry Professional
Location: Seattle, Wa. Joined: 21 Feb 2004
Posts: 365
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| Posted: Mon 26 Jan, 2009 9:51 pm Post subject: |
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| M. Eversberg II wrote: | Mike, let us know when the edges have been resolved. I've been considering a longsword for a while, but don't want a bad edge on it.
M. |
I emailed Barry and he says they are working on improving the edges- we'll just have to wait and see what sort of fix they come up with. So far CAS/Hanwei has shown an impressive commitment to quality on this line; I don't doubt the edge 'problem' will get worked out.
Michael 'Tinker' Pearce
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Then one night, as my car was going backwards through a cornfield at 90mph, I had an epiphany...
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M. Eversberg II
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| Posted: Tue 27 Jan, 2009 12:16 am Post subject: |
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Good to hear. What kind of edge *should* it have? Hexogonal? I'm a bit out of touch with type XVIIIb.
M.
This space for rent or lease.
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Mike Harris
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| Posted: Tue 27 Jan, 2009 7:35 am Post subject: |
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| P. Cha wrote: | | M. Eversberg II wrote: | Is this the same kind of edge on the longsword?
M. |
From what Mike Harris reported about his tinker longsword, I believe them to have very different edges. He reported his as being dull...while this one is uber sharp. He just need to touch his up...mine needs a rework of the geometry something fierce. So I think they listened to the complaints abou their dull edge from the long sword...but unfortunately messed things up in the process :P . |
Naah. My edge on the longsword was just like this one, except not nearly as sharp. It took a lot of filing to round it over and get a sharp edge on it. But it sharpened up nicely, and it holds an edge very well.
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Michael Pearce
Industry Professional
Location: Seattle, Wa. Joined: 21 Feb 2004
Posts: 365
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| Posted: Tue 27 Jan, 2009 8:20 am Post subject: |
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| M. Eversberg II wrote: | Good to hear. What kind of edge *should* it have? Hexogonal? I'm a bit out of touch with type XVIIIb.
M. |
On a $300 sword? I'd settle for 'sharp!'  XVIIIa's had just about any sort of functional edge you can imagine, from appleseed to beveled to 'zero-grind' or Cannel-ground.' I believe- but am not positive- that Cannel Ground and 'appleseed' predominated.
Before starting this project I would have been happy with a $300- $350 production sword that would only take a couple of hours of work to make it a halfway decent sword, but these swords have my name on them so to speak. A couple of notes; I haven't seen one of these swords yet that I couldn't cut tatami mats or two-liter bottles with- but I have sharpened the ones that I am keeping and it really does improve the way that they cut.
Michael 'Tinker' Pearce
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Then one night, as my car was going backwards through a cornfield at 90mph, I had an epiphany...
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M. Eversberg II
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| Posted: Tue 27 Jan, 2009 8:25 am Post subject: |
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Just meant in general, really 
Well, if you're backing them, they're good enough for me. That widening of the shoulders really sets it off.
M.
This space for rent or lease.
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Mike Harris
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| Posted: Tue 27 Jan, 2009 10:15 am Post subject: |
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Just to be clear, I am happy with the blade on my longsword. When I buy a sword at this price point and get a blade of outstanding heat treat and really good steel, with good harmonics, fitted to a nice hilt with well-designed pieces... I'm thrilled. I would have been thrilled if it had no edge on it.
To my mind, edges are a "consumable attribute" on a sword. For the record... I even rework the edges on all my ATrim swords, and touch up the edges on all the Albion and A&A swords I get. It's just something you should expect to do occasionally if you use your swords and demand performance from them.
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P. Cha
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| Posted: Sat 07 Feb, 2009 10:39 pm Post subject: |
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Okay so I fixed the scabbard issue by using a belt sander and griding down to the wood core. Yes it is actually wood and not fiberglass. It's not a very good wood core mind you, but wood.
And what the blade looks like now. I had a small chip on the tip from it getting dropped by a new person doing some cutting when he hit the stand. The sword was fine from the stand but the edges chipped from landing on rocks...edge on. So I tried to re-do the edge by hand...but the chip was big enough where this just wasn't gonna happed anytime reasonable so I reground it using a slack belt sander. Then I liked how the edge came out of just the tip, so I redid the entire edge using the slack belt sander. It took me about 15 minutes to get a proper appleseed edge. Course you have those horizantal grind marks from it. You can still see them in the picture a bit...but I really liked how the edge came out using this method. And the finish on the blade is a 300 grit finish. The whole process was about an hour and a half of work. So if I ever have to do this again, that's what I'm doing .
And see less then 2 hours and I'm now VERY happy with this sword . Well sorta...since the first edge touch up was by hand which took much longer. But in the future, I think I'll just do it this way hehe.
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Michael Pearce
Industry Professional
Location: Seattle, Wa. Joined: 21 Feb 2004
Posts: 365
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| Posted: Sun 08 Feb, 2009 8:55 am Post subject: |
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I talked to hanwei this last week, and they believe that they have a fix for the edge so this should hopefully not be a problem in the future. They are also planning on opening up the throat in a fashion similar to what you have done.
Michael 'Tinker' Pearce
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Then one night, as my car was going backwards through a cornfield at 90mph, I had an epiphany...
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M. Eversberg II
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| Posted: Sun 08 Feb, 2009 12:01 pm Post subject: |
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That's the sign of a good company for sure.
M.
This space for rent or lease.
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