[Josh Fint]

Hello all, I'm new to this, I finally landed on a sword shape that really attracted me, the guys at the booth called it a cut-and-thrust rapier, or sidesword. I'm looking for a relatively inexpensive version of this sword for live steel usage. I really don't want anything fancy, just a functional, dull, strong, battle pageant sword. I have people lined up to teach me to use it correctly and work on choreographed battle routines for Renaissance and pirate faires.

I have seen the CAS Hanwei practical sidesword and it really caught my eye because of the introductory price range, but reading the review on this site has me a little turned off towards it, plastic hilt and all that.

Can anyone point out a sword that fits the bill? I'm hoping to spend less than $300. I don't mind used swords either if anyone has one they were thinking of parting with.

Thanks in advance
-Josh

[Josh Fint]

No suggestions?

[Sean Flynt]

You might find something here:

http://www.kultofathena.com/swords-renaissance.htm

There are several weapons under $300 that would fall under the very general category of "cut and thrust".

Given the expected usage and budget, you might be happy with Alchem's "Aguirre" hilt with a broad "Safeflex" blade.

Hilt:
http://www.alcheminc.com/aguirre.html

Safeflex blade:

http://www.alcheminc.com/safeflexrapiers.jpg

That setup would be just $140 and probably look o.k. from the audience's perspective:

[Mark Millman]

Dear Mr. Fint,

As Mr. Flynt has suggested, Alchem Armory is a good choice for inexpensive, durable weapons. I'd recommend, however, the flat-tang blade over the Safeflex. I think it handles much more like a real sword, as I find the Safeflex too light--it's made of crimped sheet metal and makes for a particularly tip-light weapon. The Aguirre, Espada Ropera, Reitschwert, and Swept hilts are all good styles for cut-and-thrust rapiers; the Reitschwert is closest to the Hanwei Sidesword's hilt construction. None is more than $219 (for any of the Swept hilt styles with flat-tang blade and heavier pommel for an extra $4); the other styles are under $200, even if you choose all the extra-cost options. You can see the choices from Alchem's Hilts and Long Blades page:

http://www.alcheminc.com/longhilts.html

and you can see the flat-tang blade compared to the Safeflex blade on the Long Blades page:

http://www.alcheminc.com/longblades.html

Del Tin makes a number of models that you may like, but current U.S. prices are between half again and twice your maximum cost. If you can find one second-hand you may possibly be able to get it for under $300. You can see Del Tin's models here:

http://www.deltin.net/

As for the Hanwei Practical Sidesword, note that in this price range, a plastic grip core is probably more durable than a wooden one. Either way, it's covered with leather, so the material won't be obvious. The pommel screws off, which makes it easy to change the grip core and grip cover if you wish. What I find more distressing is the blade shape, which, while a good compromise for safety in free fencing, is unlike almost all historical weapon styles.

Windlass Steelcrafts makes a number of potentially suitable swords available through its Museum Replicas division. Be aware, however, that some may be adaptable for use (for example, I'd strongly recommend filing the edges of any Windlass sword to a millimeter in thickness and rounding them for use in fencing) while others probably won't be, and it will be difficult to tell which is which without relying on people's personal experiences. Museum Replicas' Web site is:

http://www.museumreplicas.com/

You may also be able to find appropriate styles of Windlass swords on the secondary market, as the company doesn't keep all of its models in production all the time.

I hope that this proves helpful.

Best,

Mark Millman

[Josh Fint]

Thanks for the input guys, there are some sources there that I hadn't yet found on the web, and that's what I was hoping for!

[Dan P]

You might also look at Darkwood Armory (www.darkwoodarmory.com), they have a wide variety of hilts and blades and make solid stuff.
I have the sharp version of the Hanwei Sidesword, and have cut lightweight targets without any kind of structural problem. Of course its a great deal clunkier than my Darkwood Armory sword... but thats to be expected in a production piece.

[Josh Fint]

I saw darkwood, I like some of there stuff, I also saw Arms and Armor, and they have some stuff, if I decide to save a little while longer I will be looking at these places I think.

[Josh Fint]

Hey guys has anyone had any experience with this windlass blade?
http://www.kultofathena.com/product~item~5008...+Sword.htm

it says battle ready and unsharpened, but it looks like the ip would need to be rounded of for live steel. what are your guy's opinions about that kind of action plan?


-Josh

[Nathan Robinson]

Josh -

Please note that t he term "battle ready" really doesn't mean anything. People use those terms to mean so many things that it ends up being a nebulous term that has been diluted to the point of really not meaning anything. Blunts, sharps, wallhangers, and high-end swords alike have all been called "battle ready": the meaning isn't meaningful anymore.


It's probably better to describe your needs and desires for a sword, as you have done in your first post, and then have suggestions given to you that meet those needs.

Let's face it, none of us are going to use swords in modern times for battle. There are those who are using them for cutting practice, re-enactment, living history, collecting, sparring, theatrical fighting, etc, etc, etc. Each of these activities will have a different group of products appropriate for it. Some items may overlap the different groups, but the lists will be different.

[Josh Fint]

So i conversed vi email with Jim from Alchem today, look slike wonderful choices for what I am looking for in a sword, pratical and usable. The only downside i that I am looking for Renn and pirate faire usage, so a sheath would be nice, is there place that sell those for rapiers? I wouldn't fit anyway would it? would it really be that hard to make something functional? I'm decent with leather.

i know it seems like I'm going a mile a minute, but thats just the way that I gather information. yu guys are being terribly patiet and helpful.

-Josh