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Sammy Jackson
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 Posted: Fri 09 May, 2008 1:14 pm Post subject: ............................................................ |
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Hey guys! all these recommendations are great. ive tried them all....even olive oil.....when in need right!
but the problem in having is my rust spots appear under the oil or wax. in exactly the same spots everytime? any ideas?
sammy the man
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Lawrence Parramore
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| Posted: Fri 09 May, 2008 1:26 pm Post subject: |
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Yes try 'de-watering oil' , this should remove the moisture, I am guessing you already removed the rust right?
Sure someone will tell you where to get it from, gun places would be easiest I think.
Catch
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P. Cha
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| Posted: Fri 09 May, 2008 3:17 pm Post subject: |
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WD-40 will displace water so is a good choice to use before waxing things...and very easy to find  .
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Rod Walker
Location: NSW, Australia. Joined: 05 Feb 2004
Posts: 230
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| Posted: Fri 09 May, 2008 5:13 pm Post subject: |
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A period recipe that works for leather and steel.
1 litre of Olive Oil, heat it up in a saucepan til it is hot enough to melt beeswax in. Then add approx. 350grams of beeswax, mix well, add roseoil or lavender if you want for smell.
Pour into a container and let set.
Apply to metal, leather with a cloth.
Works better then just about anything you will buy, smells nice and is a period recipe.
Cheers
Rod
Jouster
www.jousting.com.au
"Come! Let us lay a lance in rest,
And tilt at windmills under a wild sky!
For who would live so petty and unblessed
That dare not tilt at something, ere he die?"
--Errantry, John Galsworthy
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Ed Toton
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| Posted: Fri 09 May, 2008 5:29 pm Post subject: |
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| P. Cha wrote: | | WD-40 will displace water so is a good choice to use before waxing things...and very easy to find . |
I will second this. If it's rusting under the wax, then you're most likely sealing in some moisture. Displacing it with WD-40, and then wiping as much of it off as you can before coating it with the new wax/oil, will probably help.
-Ed T. Toton III
ed.toton.org | ModernChivalry.org
My armor photos on facebook
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Shayan G
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| Posted: Fri 09 May, 2008 6:44 pm Post subject: |
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Using a blowdrier after applying the WD40 will all but ensure the moisture's gone for good!
Good luck!
You have to be a man, first, before you can be a gentleman!
~the immortal John Wayne
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Jason Daub
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| Posted: Fri 09 May, 2008 9:12 pm Post subject: |
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I've been using the recipe that Rod mentioned for about two years now and have come across nothing better. It is superior to every modern product that I've tried and I can't think of one I haven't. I use it on my firearms as well and the only drawback that I've found is the looks you get in moose camp when your rifle and case smell like lavender.
'I saw young Harry, -with his bevor on,
His cuisses on his thighs, gallantly arm'd,-
Rise from the ground like feather'd Mercury,
And vaulted with such ease into his seat,
As if an angel dropp'd down from the clouds,
To turn and wind a fiery Pegasus,
And witch the world with noble horsemanship.'
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Adam S.
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| Posted: Fri 09 May, 2008 9:15 pm Post subject: |
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| Francisco Simões wrote: | Hello
For how long do you say that Renaissance wax would protect a wall hanging sword? And what would you recomend to take it off for making a new wax coat? (just plain scotchbright???)
Godspeed |
If it's a "wall Hanger" then it's most likely made of stainless steel. Since rust and discoloration are already fighting an uphill battle against your pretty, I think as long as no no one touches the blade you should be fine. All you really have to worry about is dust...
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Addison C. de Lisle
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| Posted: Fri 09 May, 2008 9:20 pm Post subject: |
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| Rod Walker wrote: | A period recipe that works for leather and steel.
1 litre of Olive Oil, heat it up in a saucepan til it is hot enough to melt beeswax in. Then add approx. 350grams of beeswax, mix well, add roseoil or lavender if you want for smell.
Pour into a container and let set.
Apply to metal, leather with a cloth.
Works better then just about anything you will buy, smells nice and is a period recipe. |
Does that leave the blade feeling waxy/oily afterwards? A slightly dumb question, but I just want to check
www.addisondelisle.com
Last edited by Addison C. de Lisle on Sat 10 May, 2008 11:51 am; edited 1 time in total
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Justin King
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Sat 10 May, 2008 7:09 am Post subject: |
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Where the sword is stored can make a difference too, try to avoid any nearby sources of moisture or cold. Keep them well away from bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms, etc. and even windows, drafty areas, and un-insulated spaces. Changes in temperature cause moisture to condense, especially on metallic objects, so keeping them at a near-constant temperature helps a great deal.
Sealing in moisture or other contaminants under a protective coating can be a problem too, as mentioned.
Another culprit is often other things the sword is exposed to- I have watched a tiny drop of soda splatter etch a dark spot onto even an oiled blade in only a few minutes. Friut or vegetable juices are often acidic and can do the same thing, there are a surprising number of things that can cause this kind of damage.
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Ed Toton
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Justin King
Industry Professional
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| Posted: Sat 10 May, 2008 12:23 pm Post subject: |
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I have purposely antiqued a blade by putting it in the bathroom when the shower is running. Even with a protectant on it this will cause corrosion in short order. Something as simple as cross-ventilation between a bathroom and the storage area or placing swords too close to a window can precipitate rust to a startling degree.
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Sean Smith
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| Posted: Sat 10 May, 2008 8:03 pm Post subject: |
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| Jean Thibodeau wrote: | | Sean Smith wrote: | | Turtle Wax works wonderfully, until you finally have to get it off. Then it is a royal pain. |
yes but why do you have to ever take it off ? If some rust spots do appear anyway the scotchbright pads will remove the turtle wax as well as the rust and a bit of metal and then just re-wax.
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All about the context. I am referring to using Turtle wax on my armour, in the SCA. The stuff frequently lives either on a field, or in my car. This stuff takes all kinds of beatings, which most collectors and less frequent re-enactors would die in horror from. Every so often, I need to take it off, re-finish the armour (mostly to remove duct tape marks, and the bit of surface rust) and then re-apply. I try and take off the old wax before-hand, as some of the methods I use don't really like that. And at the end, if I am applying a "fresh" coat over nothing, it comes out better.
I could completely understand only using it once for a piece which was not getting nearly as frequent use. Just trials of different interests.
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Jean Thibodeau
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| Posted: Sat 10 May, 2008 11:55 pm Post subject: |
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| Sean Smith wrote: | | Jean Thibodeau wrote: | | Sean Smith wrote: | | Turtle Wax works wonderfully, until you finally have to get it off. Then it is a royal pain. |
yes but why do you have to ever take it off ? If some rust spots do appear anyway the scotchbright pads will remove the turtle wax as well as the rust and a bit of metal and then just re-wax.
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All about the context. I am referring to using Turtle wax on my armour, in the SCA. The stuff frequently lives either on a field, or in my car. This stuff takes all kinds of beatings, which most collectors and less frequent re-enactors would die in horror from. Every so often, I need to take it off, re-finish the armour (mostly to remove duct tape marks, and the bit of surface rust) and then re-apply. I try and take off the old wax before-hand, as some of the methods I use don't really like that. And at the end, if I am applying a "fresh" coat over nothing, it comes out better.
I could completely understand only using it once for a piece which was not getting nearly as frequent use. Just trials of different interests. |
Yes, context.   I meant that with a little spot of rust one can do a little spot cleaning and rewax and it seems to look the same as I'm using the same abrasive pad I used over the whole finish before I first used the turtle wax and the results blend in without a transition line.
If removing all the wax over the entire armour piece(s) then an easy to use solvent would be less time wasting than having to scotchbright the entire thing every time.
Oh, completely cool with your comments as I assume you are with mine. Just replying for completeness and to clarify my thoughts as well as agree with your take on it. ( I use the Turtle wax mostly on armour for longterm storage with minimal maintenance and for a sword I'm taking out to do some test cutting with that might get exposed to bad weather or the " blood " of some overaggressive vegetables/fruits. 
You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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Richard M
Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico Joined: 08 Dec 2006
Posts: 23
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| Posted: Sun 11 May, 2008 7:03 am Post subject: Re: ........................................................ |
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| Sammy Jackson wrote: | Hey guys! all these recommendations are great. ive tried them all....even olive oil.....when in need right!
but the problem in having is my rust spots appear under the oil or wax. in exactly the same spots everytime? any ideas? |
I don't know the circumstances here but could it also be oil from someone's skin? Sometimes you think you have it wiped off but it has sunk into the metal some and will keep re-appearing as new rust. Any time I know (or suspect) someone has fingered one of my blades, or if I do accidentally, I clean them thoroughly with windex before re-oiling. I've had pretty good results that way.
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Jean Thibodeau
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| Posted: Sun 11 May, 2008 8:09 pm Post subject: Re: ........................................................ |
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| Richard M wrote: | | Sammy Jackson wrote: | Hey guys! all these recommendations are great. ive tried them all....even olive oil.....when in need right!
but the problem in having is my rust spots appear under the oil or wax. in exactly the same spots everytime? any ideas? |
I don't know the circumstances here but could it also be oil from someone's skin? Sometimes you think you have it wiped off but it has sunk into the metal some and will keep re-appearing as new rust. Any time I know (or suspect) someone has fingered one of my blades, or if I do accidentally, I clean them thoroughly with windex before re-oiling. I've had pretty good results that way. |
Do the rust spots appear where there is some contact other objects ? If it was a sword stored in a scabbard the blade or the hilt parts might be in contact with a corrosion promoting wood or leather.
Puzzling in any case ?
You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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Sean Smith
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| Posted: Sun 11 May, 2008 8:24 pm Post subject: |
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It also depends on the person. Some people I know can pick up a mild steel helm for 5 sec., put it down, and 10-15 min. later, there are 5 fingerprint-sized rust spots on the helm. Just some people are naturally more caustic than others, literally.
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Jean Thibodeau
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| Posted: Sun 11 May, 2008 9:00 pm Post subject: |
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| Sean Smith wrote: | | It also depends on the person. Some people I know can pick up a mild steel helm for 5 sec., put it down, and 10-15 min. later, there are 5 fingerprint-sized rust spots on the helm. Just some people are naturally more caustic than others, literally. |
Yes I have a friend who can melt the hardchrome ( or maybe nickel ) plating off the handle of his pistols. ( Not to mention what he does to bluing ).
I don't seem to have that problem but I still wipe my finger prints off my toys just in case.
So corrosive sweat seems to vary greatly from person to person.
You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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Lawrence Parramore
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| Posted: Sun 11 May, 2008 11:45 pm Post subject: |
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Following the above, it is well known in jewellery, some people can turn silver black in a very short period of time!
As Sean Smith wrote: Just some people are naturally more caustic than others, literally. Very true!
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P. Cha
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| Posted: Mon 12 May, 2008 8:53 am Post subject: |
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And even in the same person a change in diet can cause a change in how corrosive their sweat is. I had a friend who was a vegan who could wear silver for ages and not have it turn black. After a year in germany in a small village(yes he had to actually eat meat while he lived there), he could turn silver black pretty quickly. I think it was the drastic change in his salt content personally. He ate pretty healty before going over there, but once there he had to eat a lot of salted and cured meats. Then again, who know, maybe it is meat...or cheese.
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This is a standard topic