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Jeff Schaber





Joined: 31 Mar 2007

Posts: 16

PostPosted: Fri 22 Feb, 2008 6:20 am    Post subject: How do you wrap a Hilt in leather?         Reply with quote

Anyone out there able to provide instructions or a link that will give me the basic instructions for wrapping a hilt in leather?

I'm actually making a few staves and want to wrap an area with leather but not sure how to start and tie it off so it doesn't come unraveled. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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R D Moore




Location: Portland Oregon
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PostPosted: Fri 22 Feb, 2008 6:46 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hello, Jeff

You may find this thread helpful: http://www.myArmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=3808 It provides quite a bit of detail , and pictures are included to clear up a lot of confusion. You can also use the "search" function. Just type in the phrase "rewrapping and hit" and pick the thread you want to read.

Good luck
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S. Christiansen




Location: South Jutland, Denmark
Joined: 25 Aug 2007

Posts: 79

PostPosted: Fri 22 Feb, 2008 7:24 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Or perhaps this article: http://www.myArmoury.com/feature_bench_ws_estoc.html.
Regards,

Sonni
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Jeff Schaber





Joined: 31 Mar 2007

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PostPosted: Fri 22 Feb, 2008 9:50 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

A lot of great information from these links but I don't understand is how the seam is finished? Is it sewn shut? Is the whole piece of leather glued to the wooden base or just the beginning and ends?
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Chad Arnow
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PostPosted: Fri 22 Feb, 2008 10:34 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Jeff Schaber wrote:
A lot of great information from these links but I don't understand is how the seam is finished? Is it sewn shut? Is the whole piece of leather glued to the wooden base or just the beginning and ends?


It depends. MRL, Del Tin, and A&A stitch theirs shut.

The Albion-style wrap talked about in those links just relies on glue. The leather is cut so that it overlaps itself. It's glued all over its back so it's glued to the wood core and to itself (where it overlaps).

Happy

ChadA

http://chadarnow.com/
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Chase S-R




Location: New Mexico
Joined: 31 Jan 2008

Posts: 166

PostPosted: Fri 22 Feb, 2008 10:55 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

You could lash it, I lashed my bow grip.


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lashing.jpg


Charles Stewart Rodriguez
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Jared Smith




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PostPosted: Fri 22 Feb, 2008 2:10 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Chad Arnow wrote:

The Albion-style wrap talked about in those links just relies on glue. The leather is cut so that it overlaps itself. It's glued all over its back so it's glued to the wood core and to itself (where it overlaps).


This is true. There is also a trick to it. You need to taper the thickness of the leather both at the first edge glued to the grip core (generally gets wrapped over with something like roughly half a wrap of overlap) and the exposed edge where the wrap ends. This prevents noticeable bulges where the wrap covers over itself and where the exposed paper thin edge of the end of the wrap is actually visible with just a hair line of glue being evident. A wide knife (skiving knife) is really helpful for that. You can use sandpaper to carefully taper the dry leather down to paper thin thickness over say 1" of the leather's width if you don't have the knife.

You may find a slightly non rectangular (tapering a little with the widest part put on first) strip of leather to be more forgiving if you hand wrap the water dampened, stretchy, glue-covered, messing thing without the perfection of a machinist. Then you need to compress it (string wrapped tightly around the outside and left with a suspended heavy weight pulling tension on it) and keep it tight for a couple of days while it dries.

Absence of evidence is not necessarily evidence of absence!
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Chad Arnow
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myArmoury Team

PostPosted: Fri 22 Feb, 2008 2:28 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Jared Smith wrote:
This is true. There is also a trick to it. You need to taper the thickness of the leather both at the first edge glued to the grip core (generally gets wrapped over with something like roughly half a wrap of overlap) and the exposed edge where the wrap ends. This prevents noticeable bulges where the wrap covers over itself and where the exposed paper thin edge of the end of the wrap is actually visible with just a hair line of glue being evident. A wide knife (skiving knife) is really helpful for that. You can use sandpaper to carefully taper the dry leather down to paper thin thickness over say 1" of the leather's width if you don't have the knife.



If you use chamois leather, you don't get bulges at the overlap. Happy But with other leathers, skiving is probably necessary.

Happy

ChadA

http://chadarnow.com/
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