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Timothy Gulics
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 Posted: Sun 28 Mar, 2004 9:56 am Post subject: Cleaning Swords |
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Here's a question I've always wanted to ask...
What is best to CLEAN a sword? I know oils and waxes protect swords, but what about cleaning any past gook off of a sword and its fittings?
I've used polish to clean up a blade and some fittings, and that generally works well. I've noticed that the wax I use, Renaissance Wax, will sometimes also remove some leftover gook as I apply it and buff clean.
I'm curious because I have a Conan Atlantean from Albion that could use some touching up around the bronze fittings, and I don't want to damage the finish on the bronze. It's a lot of detail work, where that blade meets the langets. I've polished the blade with MetalGlo and gave her a follow up of Renaissance Wax (I've left the furniture alone for now). When the time is right I'll probably continue maintenance with 3-in-1 for the blade and a wax for the bronze.
Your input is appreciated  Of course my other alternative is to send her back to Albion for a touch-up, and I've inquired with them as to how much that would cost.
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Nathan Robinson
myArmoury Admin
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Timothy Gulics
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| Posted: Sun 28 Mar, 2004 10:06 am Post subject: |
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You know, I always forget that handy little knowledge compendium.
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Steve Maly
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| Posted: Sun 28 Mar, 2004 2:24 pm Post subject: |
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Nathan,
When just "changing the oil" rather than polishing, do you also use the Windex to take off the old oil? I've used mineral spirits for this in the past.
"When the only tool you own is a hammer, every problem begins to resemble a nail." ~A. Maslow
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Nathan Robinson
myArmoury Admin
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| Posted: Sun 28 Mar, 2004 2:29 pm Post subject: |
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| Steve Maly wrote: | | Nathan, When just "changing the oil" rather than polishing, do you also use the Windex to take off the old oil? I've used mineral spirits for this in the past. |
I don't. Honestly, I don't do a lot to my swords. I really don't even oil them. Personally, I think people are pretty picky about the way they care for their swords. I guess I understand, but I don't see it as that big of a deal. If it has oil on it already, I generally would think it doesn't need any more. But if you feel compelled to change it for some reason, then I'd just wipe off the old oil with a rag, put more on.. sounds about right to me.
.:. Visit my Collection Gallery :: View my Reading List :: View my Wish List :: See Pages I Like :: Find me on Facebook .:.
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Steve Fabert
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| Posted: Sun 28 Mar, 2004 3:11 pm Post subject: |
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| Nathan Robinson wrote: | | If it has oil on it already, I generally would think it doesn't need any more. But if you feel compelled to change it for some reason, then I'd just wipe off the old oil with a rag, put more on.. sounds about right to me. |
Use something that will penetrate (like WD40) to prevent rust, but otherwise stay away from oils that don't evaporate. The film they leave behind can be a major pain to remove, if it starts to accumulate in crevices around the hilt. Machine oil can turn into hard stuff like amber is it is allowed to congeal.
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Steve Maly
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| Posted: Sun 28 Mar, 2004 4:48 pm Post subject: |
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| Steve Fabert wrote: | | Use something that will penetrate (like WD40) to prevent rust, but otherwise stay away from oils that don't evaporate. The film they leave behind can be a major pain to remove, if it starts to accumulate in crevices around the hilt. Machine oil can turn into hard stuff like amber is it is allowed to congeal. |
That's interesting as I would think that after the WD40 evaporated, it would be as if there was nothing on the blade and it would be wide open to rust. If one uses light oils (like 3-in-1, or my personal favorite Breakfree CLP) then there shouldn't be any "goop"--at least there hasn't been on mine. If 3-in-1 does that, then I may want to stay away from it. Regardless of the product, I have to make sure I don't use too much and keep it away from the hilt. I have noticed that since I don't handle my swords as often, then the Renaissance Wax works better (it doesn't make the dust "stick" so much) and it dries to a hard, clear protective layer. On another thread, Jeffery Hull mentioned using boiled Lindseed oil and that it will dry to a light amber layer. Is that what you were referring to with your experience regarding the machine oil?
"When the only tool you own is a hammer, every problem begins to resemble a nail." ~A. Maslow
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Timothy Gulics
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| Posted: Sun 28 Mar, 2004 4:51 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, machine oil can get a little gooky. I've seen that first hand and it sucks, the yellowy gook left behind is a pain to dissolve. Is 3-in-1 better than machine oil in this regard? 3-in-1 seems like a light oil that would not congeal the same way.
As for cleaning, it seems Break Free CLP does a good job of removing stubborn gook. I just picked up a can and tried it... the results were satisfying. I haven't slaved over it, and I hear the best results are gotten if the BF can penetrate, but from my short go at it I could tell it was working. A more intense cleaning will have to come another time.
Either way, I have to agree with Nathan's comments on oiling. I think it is done too much and too often. I oil/wax once a few months, if that. I do very little handling.
Last edited by Timothy Gulics on Sun 28 Mar, 2004 5:35 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Nathan Robinson
myArmoury Admin
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| Posted: Sun 28 Mar, 2004 5:27 pm Post subject: |
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| Steve Fabert wrote: | | Use something that will penetrate (like WD40) to prevent rust, but otherwise stay away from oils that don't evaporate. The film they leave behind can be a major pain to remove, if it starts to accumulate in crevices around the hilt. Machine oil can turn into hard stuff like amber is it is allowed to congeal. |
As I mentioned, I don't oil my swords. I live in California, and I don't need to. However, there are many climates where people need to oil their swords and must use an oil that does not evaporate because they're looking for long-lasting protection. In these cases, a good gun oil or break-free is a very good choice and WD40 simply won't cut it.
.:. Visit my Collection Gallery :: View my Reading List :: View my Wish List :: See Pages I Like :: Find me on Facebook .:.
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Timothy Gulics
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| Posted: Sun 28 Mar, 2004 5:50 pm Post subject: |
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To get back on topic...
If anyone knows other methods of cleaning swords and/or removing hardened gook... please post them.
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Steve Maly
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| Posted: Sun 28 Mar, 2004 6:17 pm Post subject: |
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| Timothy Gulics wrote: | To get back on topic...
If anyone knows other methods of cleaning swords and/or removing hardened gook... please post them. |
You might try mineral spirits or naptha.
"When the only tool you own is a hammer, every problem begins to resemble a nail." ~A. Maslow
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Josh Aldous
Location: Wisconsin Joined: 25 Aug 2003
Posts: 44
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| Posted: Mon 29 Mar, 2004 7:54 am Post subject: |
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| Steve Maly wrote: | | Timothy Gulics wrote: | To get back on topic...
If anyone knows other methods of cleaning swords and/or removing hardened gook... please post them. |
You might try mineral spirits or naptha. |
Oh, napthalene -- a miracle substance! I use it on just about everything, because it can remove a lot of foreign matter (sticky or goopy), but I haven't know it to ever damage anything.
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Timothy Gulics
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| Posted: Mon 29 Mar, 2004 8:21 am Post subject: |
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Hmm. Naptha sounds like cool stuff, but I feel a bit uncertain about using it near the bronze on my Atlantean. It has that aged finish on it that Albion put it through, and I'd hate to strip that off.
The 'goop' in question appears to be hardened machine oil, as mentioned earlier. It is yellowy and stubborn. Thankfully there's only a little bit near where the langets end, hardly noticable. There's also some darker material inside the Atlantean engravings, but it is probably the same stuff. Altogether not very easily seen unless you look close (and of course my eyes are drawn to it). The Break Free has done a good job in slowly removing it, so I'll work at it again when I get a chance.
Thanks all!
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Gary Grzybek
Location: Stillwater N.J. Joined: 25 Aug 2003
Posts: 559
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| Posted: Mon 29 Mar, 2004 9:16 am Post subject: |
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| Steve Fabert wrote: | | Nathan Robinson wrote: | | If it has oil on it already, I generally would think it doesn't need any more. But if you feel compelled to change it for some reason, then I'd just wipe off the old oil with a rag, put more on.. sounds about right to me. |
Use something that will penetrate (like WD40) to prevent rust, but otherwise stay away from oils that don't evaporate. The film they leave behind can be a major pain to remove, if it starts to accumulate in crevices around the hilt. Machine oil can turn into hard stuff like amber is it is allowed to congeal. |
I use CLP Break Free because it's very light and never seems to build up. If you apply too much it will haze and run but that can easily be remedied by wiping with a clean cloth.
Gary Grzybek
ARMA Northern N.J.
www.armastudy.org
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