[Chad Arnow]

I'm thinking of re-wrapping the grip on one of my daggers. What kind of cord is appropriate for an underwrap? How about for risers?

Also, what kind of glue should I use for the cord and leather cover?

Thanks!

[Pamela Muir]

[Greyson Brown]

I don't know if I can really answer those questions, as I am still asking them myself. I know that Albion uses hide glue, and I would think that would be the most appropriate. I now use the same thing, but have also used regular old wood glue (which I would think should be pretty similar to a hoof glue, but I don't know). Hide glue has the advantage of being runnier. As a result, it will flow around the risers, etc easily, and is less likely to result in bulges or other oddities.

For the cord, Albion states that they use a cotton cord. I think most of the crochet thread is cotton. Mostly, I focus on finding cord that is made from some kind of natural fiber, I have used cotton, hemp, and some stuff that was apparently made from cherry trees. Having tried several methods, I find that I like using a smaller cord and wrapping it several times to form the risers (as I did on my dagger) rather than using a larger size cord (which is what I did with the rest of the grips in that thread).

It might be a heresy, but I use synthetic cord for the exterior wrap. For one, I found the size I wanted (I think it is 4mm) in synthetic, but I have also found that it has less tendency to leave little bits of itself glued to the outside of the grip. It is also a bit stronger for its size (I think), and that lets me wrap it really tight.

Leather is the trickiest part for me. Chamois actually works quite well, and it compresses enough that your seam can almost disappear without too much effort, but I don't think it is quite the right stuff for historical accuracy. I want some 1 oz calf skin, but that costs six or seven dollars a square foot . As an alternative, I have used 1 oz pigskin. It works, but I find that the texture obscures some detail, and it can be kind of stiff. I'm not sure what the best way to soften it up would be. It also requires that you skive it a bit if you want to hide the seam.

Hope that helps a little bit.

-Grey

[Richard Fay]

[Richard Fay]

Hello again!

I thought I would show an example of a sword grip wrapped with pigskin leather over macrame cord with suede thong risers. This can show you what results can be achieved using these materials. Below is a photo of the grip on my MRL Schwert. The grip was too chunky for my hands, and the weird leather-wire-leather-wire-leather banding that MRL had as a grip wrap was too uncomfortable, so I took the original grip wrap off and shaved the grip core down to a better size and shape. I then tried a plain leather grip wrap, but that was too smooth. I next tried leather-over-cord, but that was still a bit too slick. The addition of the risers made for a more positive grip. The suede thonging I used for the risers may have been a bit too thick; if I was to redo it once more, I would use thinner leather thongs. However, they do work as risers. The risers may be a bit too close to the cross, but I like to hold it in a hammer-style grip with my hand against the cross, so it works for me. MRL grips tend to be slightly long, so the risers may actually be in the right spot in relation to the cross.

Anyway, here's the photo (I hope it looks okay; I have bad lighting indoors and a camera that doesn't like low light conditions):

[Steven H]

I'm interested in the answer to Chad's question too, and have two related questions of my own:

How do you start and end the cord wrap so that it stays in place and tight?
Do you glue down the cord? Or just glue the leather to the cord?

Thanks.

[Pamela Muir]

[Richard Fay]

[Tim Harris]

I've been using bargain shop jute cord over PVA glue. A bit thicker than the other suggestions here, but fine for the swords swords I've been doing, and not totally unlike hemp. The downside is it tends to shed fibres, which can end up on the outer wrap if I'm not careful.

I use contact adhesive over the cord to hold the leather wrap, which works well if everything is kept clean. I'm not too fussy about the leather, but favour pigskin lining.

[Bruno Giordan]

[Peter Johnsson]

For cord you can use several types, depending on what result you want.
A cotton cord /macramé cord) works fine. It is pretty strong and even in texture.
Sometimes it might be too even but sometimes this is just the effect one might want.
I also use hemp cord sometimes. The kind I use is available in common stationary shops. It is not so even and varies in both diameter and texture. Sometimes this is just perfect, especially if you do not want an evenly textured over wrap..

You can use either one as either over or under wrap, depending on what final effect you seek.

Leather should be thin. About 1 mm is good. Best effect will be by using vegetable tanned calf or goat skin (Goat skin is *perfect* and very hard wearing). It is expensive and sometimes hard to get.
Avoid chrome tanned leather at all cost. Rather use textile instead if you cannot get vegetable tanned leather or choose a wire wrap or some other method.
I have found that hide glue works perfectly with the cord and the leather.

The leather should be well dampened (thoroughly soaked and then patted with a towel untill damp but not dripping wet). I always do a first coloring before wrapping while the leather is damp from the soaking.

Before you apply the leather, you need to wrap the grip core.
Start at the thinnest end (the pommel side) and work your way towards the other end. You need to make sure the cird is evenly applied. You need not use incredible force, but a good tight wrap is a good foundation.

You can secure the ends of the cord by binding it down with simple lop knots (don´t know the name in english) or simply use crazy glue.
Teh risers are also made fo the same cord. Pretty straight forward thing to do if you secure it down with crazy glue. If you want to avoid crazy glue, use instead hide glue and a bit more patience.
When the wrapping is complete apply a coating of hide glue and let it soak in through the cord and let the semi finished grip sit over night.

On originals I have seen risers made from either cord or leather thongs.

Before wetting the leather, cut it to shape (allowing for some overlap) and skive the edges to assure a nice tight "seam". the better you manage the skiving the better end result you will get.

If you have a water bath heater for the hide glue (the tradiional method) you need to make sure the glue is not steaming hot when you apply it on the leather: the leather might shrink prematurely if you are not careful.
Some types of hide glue is sold in a bottle as a liquid. This kind obviously does not need a water bath....

When the leather finally sits where you want it (this kan become a bit messy), start binding it down with cord.

Depending on what cord you use for under and over wrap and what thickness of leathe you use you will get different results.

Let the bound grip sit at least 24 hours before you remove the over wrapping.


(Not all grips had cord underneath the leather: you can apply the leather directly on top of the wooden core if you want. You can still add any risers you would like)

Good luck!
And please show us your result

[Steve Grisetti]

[Al Muckart]

[Al Muckart]

[Richard Fay]

[Allen W]

This is great information guys!Thank you. Personally I have a project in the future involving a smooth leather wrap on a renaissance style sword with no underbinding. I'm concerned that the overwrap (securing the leather while it dries) might leave an imprinted texture in the leather. How would this be prevented?