[Jared Smith]

I have not had a problem with overheating using the hair dryer. I just don't dwell with it directed at one spot. The flash point of alcohol is pretty low (varies with water percent, but is usually below 100 degrees F / 32 C range for pharmacy store grade alcohol mixes of 75% alcohol.) Sort of wave the blower back and forth over the scabbard and turn the back / front side around. After stitching, you should be able to get it dry enough for dye in around 10 to 15 minutes. If you are not comfortable and confident it is dry yet, let it continue to dry at room temperature over night. The leather will sort of take a set shape this way, and be less likely to slip and rotate around the core due to its slight rigidity. You can still re-wet and tool embossed areas.

I suspect the key to patterning may be to get a really cheap piece of feax leather that stretches about like the real thing (should stretch around 3% of length assumming you are going to wet the calf skin with alcohol.) Ideally you would only spend a couple of dollars for the patterning material piece. I have found that alcohol will remove rubber cement fairly well. My cores are all epoxy coated, so cleaning cement off is very easy. You could lightly glue the patterning piece to help position it just right. It would be well worth it if it made the expensive calf skin cover fit just right.

The burnishing trick is fairly old. The friend who showed me is in his mid 70's, and he was shown by his father (German descent.) Also, since you have the alcohol on hand, recognize if the dye is alcohol/ aniline based. You should be able to get most (admittedly not all) of it off of your hand with a heavily alcohol soaked rag.

The carnuba balm is put on very thick. I just goop it up as if applying sunscreen. A little dye will dissolve into the balm, but just wipe the excess off and it should still look like a nicely dyed leather piece. With this type of finish, you can re-apply balm years later, and it will buff up like new again.

Also, if your design has a triangular leather flap at the scabbard mouth, liberally apply balm to seal the rough inside of the flap. This is necessary to prevent rust of the sword guard where it may touch the leather. I store carbon steel punches inside of a tightly fitted leather pounch that was done this way, and do not have problems with rust if they are only left in for a month or two at a time.