[Mark Gattis]

Howdy folks, I have been lurking around here for a short time and have really enjoyed learning what I can about historical European weapons from all of you.

I do have a question. I recently got a MRL “Sword of Patay”. MRL had this model in there closeout section for under a hundred dollars so I picked one up. I’ve wanted to find an affordable sword to handle in the backyard, and I wanted one that looked “Medieval”. So the Patay was a great buy for me.

Now I have only owned one sword before the Patay, and I am not experienced with arms at all. So while I expect my MRL sword is more of a “wall hanger” than a true weapon, I am curious to learn just how good or bad the Patay is as swords go.

I don’t study with any group or know anything about fencing. I have bashed around a few cardboard boxes and the random rose bush with my MRL sword, using very poor technique I’m sure. From the reviews I’ve read from on this site I suspect that the blade of the Patay is softer than needed to produce the proper cut or thrusting results that a true sword (type 18) would.

Am I correct?

Thanks

Mark Gattis

[Chad Arnow]

Mark,
Welcome to the forums and welcome to the sword-collecting world! The Sword of Patay is an attractive one, and it's based (loosely) on a historical sword, rather than being a generic example like some of MRL's recent offerings. In fact, the sword that inspired it is example XVIII.4 in Sean's great Type XVIII spotlight:

http://www.myArmoury.com/view.html?features/pic_spotxviii14.jpg

I've owned a few MRL's, including a more recent model, the Towton. MRL swords produced today are typically decent bangs for the buck, though they, quite understandably, don't always compare well to more expensive swords. My main complaint with them is that they seem to have gone overboard with the "blades need to be flexible" thing. Not every sword type needs to as flexible as a thin-cross-sectioned cutting blade. Their blades on cut and thrust swords tend to be a little thin and can be slightly whippy. For a Type XVIII, the Patay should have some stiffness, to aid in thrusting.

MRL swords are generally attractive these days. Some folks may not like the brass fittings, but the original sword's hilt is of gilt bronze, so it's as close as MRL is going to get. I don't mind brass. If you paid $100 or less, I'm sure you got your money's worth and more. My Towton was less than $200 and I felt it was worth at least a $100 more. The Patay was likely a good start to an expensive hobby.

For reference purposes, here's a pic of the Patay from http://www.silvermane.com:

[Patrick Kelly]

Welcome to myArmoury Mark.

I'll echo Chads statements. The blade's tend to be too flexible on most of the latest MRL swords I've seen. That is to say the designs that should have some stiffness for the thrust. This is fine in the early designs that are cutting dedicated. What I have found is that most MRL swords are now worth their full retail price, so if you purchased this sword for under $100.00 you definitely made a good purchase.

[Jean Thibodeau]

Mark;

Welcome to the site.

As to hardness of the steel I can tell you that I am trying to sharpen a MRL Anelace dagger by hand and a file will barely bite into the steel, I'm using a diamond hone to do the job a few minutes or hours every few days when the mood strikes: It's taking a long time.

Difficult to tell, but hardness must be at least 50 R.C. but I suspect closer to 58 R.C. based on how sharpening some folding knives that I know to be 60 R.C.

But soft steel 40 R.C. would be easy to cut with a file.

On the other hand once I " FINALLY " get it sharp it should stay that way and the labour involved will not have been a waste of time.

As I asked on a topic of my own: I don't know if this is typical hardness for recent production MRL ( Windlass ) swords.
My Medieval Chopper is much softer steel.

[Sean Flynt]

Ditto, and, for what it's worth, I would have snatched up one of those if I collected replicas of that era. In fact, that one, the Towton and the Arbedo sorely tempted me to expand my focus.

By the way, brass antiques very well and you'd have little problem turning your basement-bargain into a really beautiful faux-antique. See this article for ideas:

http://www.myArmoury.com/feature_antique.html

[Jean Thibodeau]

Sean;

Look up my Anelace topic if you haven't already read it yet as I have antiqued the blade real nice.

You have to try my lemon juice and textured paper method of antiquing to see if you like it.

12 hours is enough to deeply etch the blade and can give you a faux damascus look or more random pattern ( You have to experiment with different paper textures or embossed patterns.

Sorry, about the topic change.

The MRL although not the top makers seem to be improving their line and the way they are put together.

They are decent entry level stuff and can be very interesting for antiquing project as one hesitates to do too much to an Albion pr A & A and if one makes a terrible mistake at least it wasn't an expensive one.

The MRL are also good to add variety to ones collection without having to spend $1000 on every piece.

[Mark Gattis]

Thanks for the feedback. I'm new to collecting swords and have a lot to learn. This forum looks like a good place to start.

MCG