Author |
Message |
Gabriele Becattini
|
Posted: Wed 27 Jan, 2016 12:47 pm Post subject: removing a spear head |
|
|
i need to replace the haft on my spear but the head is secured with glue (don't know for sure which kind because the spear has not been hafted by me, but for sure some sort of modern strong glue)
do you think that it is possible'?
i don't care about the current haft, so even if should it be damaged in the process, it is equally fine for me
hope that you have some hints for me
thanks
|
|
|
|
Sean Flynt
|
|
|
|
Gabriele Becattini
|
Posted: Wed 27 Jan, 2016 1:12 pm Post subject: |
|
|
yes, it was also my original plan Sean,
but my doubt is: how much i have to heat it?
if i anneal the metal too much there is the risk to have a darker spot that i cannot polish out?
|
|
|
|
Matthew Amt
|
Posted: Wed 27 Jan, 2016 1:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I had to do something similar recently. I started by sawing off the old wood about an inch below the socket, then drilling with my "saw bit" and basically roughly gouging and routing out as much as possible. The glue still held! Then I did some chiseling, and more drilling. I probably tried hammering a screw driver in to get between the wood and the metal, don't really remember, but I was not being gentle! Eventually the last of the wood gave up and came out.
I thought of burning it out, but it would have made a LOT of smoke and smell, at the very least! If you do discolor the metal, it's not too hard to repolish it, probably. Maybe. Hopefully.
Matthew
|
|
|
|
Sean Flynt
|
|
|
|
Gabriele Becattini
|
Posted: Wed 27 Jan, 2016 1:41 pm Post subject: |
|
|
thanks Matthew, i'll try to be gentle at first, but if the wood refuse to collaborate, i'll try one of the rougher methods
i have a very nice sperhead that need a slender haft and a nice bronze butt spike, you now for what!
i have to find also a way to reduce the socket diameter because now it is fit for an haft of about 2,8 cm and i wish to bring it to 2,2 cm
|
|
|
|
Leo Todeschini
Industry Professional
|
|
|
|
Matthew Amt
|
Posted: Wed 27 Jan, 2016 6:09 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Gabriele Becattini wrote: | thanks Matthew, i'll try to be gentle at first, but if the wood refuse to collaborate, i'll try one of the rougher methods
i have a very nice sperhead that need a slender haft and a nice bronze butt spike, you now for what!
i have to find also a way to reduce the socket diameter because now it is fit for an haft of about 2,8 cm and i wish to bring it to 2,2 cm |
Sometimes I just cut a little off the end of the socket to get a smaller diameter. I've tried hammering it down a couple times, without much luck. Bad technique and no patience, probably!
Matthew
|
|
|
|
Tyler Jordan
|
Posted: Wed 27 Jan, 2016 6:14 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Leo Todeschini wrote: | Probably epoxy and the bond will break down at around 130 centigrade, so well below a temperature at which you will change the temper.
Tod |
This.
If you can, cut the shaft with enough left over to hang onto, stick it in the oven at 130/275f or so and let the heat work in. If you're lucky it will pop right out. Don't tell the wife what you just did in the oven.
|
|
|
|
Gabriele Becattini
|
Posted: Thu 28 Jan, 2016 12:46 pm Post subject: |
|
|
i'll try the heat treatment, to the socket
thank you to everybody for the useful hints!
hope do not have a bi colour spear at the end!
|
|
|
|
Jean Thibodeau
|
Posted: Thu 28 Jan, 2016 6:33 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Gabriele Becattini wrote: | i'll try the heat treatment, to the socket
thank you to everybody for the useful hints!
hope do not have a bi colour spear at the end! |
A propane torch works really well if the adhesive is epoxy, I've done it a few time myself.
One thing to be careful of is that the epoxy seems to create a bit of gas pressure when it melts and the spear head can sort of shoot out the shaft and surprise you. Now this shouldn't be very dangerous unless you have the spear head pointed at your face as it might jump out about a foot or two ?
One steel spear butt I was removing did pop off this way and surprised me and it's good to be aware that gas or steam from humidity in the shaft could build up some pressure inside the socket.
I would be wary of using the oven because the smell of burned epoxy might make everything you cook in the stove taste weird or even be borderline toxic.
As to discolouration the metal might become slightly yellowish golden tinged but this can be easily polished off with a fine sanding sponge: I wouldn't worry too much about it and it shouldn't affect the heat treat unless you heat blued it.
Overheating is not that easy with a propane torch but I wouldn't use an acetylene torch which is hot enough to do welding or brazing.
Slowly pass the propane torch flame over the surface of the socket and try to heat it all slowly and evenly and as soon as the epoxy loses it's hold it will either pop off or you will be able to pull it off while wearing an oven mitt or a welding glove.
You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
|
|
|
|
Sancar O.
|
Posted: Fri 29 Jan, 2016 1:02 am Post subject: |
|
|
I've never tried it myself but a bladesmith friend of mine once told me, instead of using a torch or flame to heat a blade to loosen epoxy, you can pour boiling water on it. This way, you can avoid any fire-related accidents and injuries and possible damage to the blade.
|
|
|
|
|