[Felix R.]

Hi all,
I have a nice Albion Reeve and a campaign scabbard with basic belt.
This is obviously not the kind of scabbard suspension appropriate fir this kind of sword.
That is why I would need some help of modifiying the whole thing, first I thought just to put on a new belt and suspemsion but I am not sure that this would be much use granted the effort and if the thin leather on the campaign scabbard would give enough hold to proper suspension.

The wood core is nicely fitted to the sword, there is nearly no rattling with the sword fully inserted, on the other side the scabbard is not lined, so the sword just drops ut when not held up, is there any option to improve this, without opening the halves of the core again?

Second, I thought it would be good to give the scabbard a new leather covering, I read that 1.5mm veg tan leather would be good. Now, I don´t have experience with cutting the leather on the back and actually sewing it. I know here is alot knowledgable people around, who can perhaps help me in how to get started. I also read the latest topic on the Crecy scabbard with great joy. So at the moment, before starting on a wood core by my own for one of the other swords, it would be enough to first try getting the leather cover on an existing wood core right.

Perhas you can also point me to some good reference for the suspension of the Reeve scabbard. I saw alot different types of complex suspension, so I am a little overwhelmed.

Oh my, so many questions, I hope someone chimes in.

[Peter Johnsson]

One suggestion for a quick fix for any looseness of the fit of the scabbard to the blade: You can glue a thin piece of leather at the mouth of the scabbard. This will help pinch the blade the last bit when it is inserted.

[Brian K.]

Another thing you do can do is get some wool and cut two thin strips approximately 1" long and approximately 1/8" wide and insert them into the two sides at the mouth of the scabbard where it creates a natural pinch point. This will create a frictional point on the blade the last 1" it slides in and out. It is easily applied without glue and can easily be removed if it need be. If this doesn't create enough friction, make a couple wider strips. You can gage how wide they need to be by looking at the blade drawn out of the scabbard approximately 1/4" to 1/2" and determine how much space between the edge of the blade and the pinch of the wood core exist and use that space as your measuring point for your wool strips. I use a wool blanket I purchased from a Army Navy surplus store.

[Felix R.]

Hmm, both sounds good.

What kind of glue was it I can use. When I don´t glue those straps inside, wouldn´t they work their way deeper into the scabbard?
Have to review the latewst topics on this.

[Brian K.]

[Chad Arnow]

[Felix R.]

Hi Chad, that made me think too, but there must have been a way to at least give more friction for the sword, both methods as recommended by Peter and Brian sound very useful. Especially with the fullered Reeve I can perhaps add something in the fullered area.

I have looked for leather now, some use calf skin, is there any experience with goat leather, as it is more readily available in thicknesses of about 1.5mm.