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Looking for best version of Scottish Lowlander Sword.
Hi,

I was interested in picking up a Scottish 'Lowlander' sword. I apologise if this is Paul Chen's name for the sword and this is simply a type of 2 handed Claymore.

In any case, I wrote to Albion, and I hope that Albion choses to replicate this sword, just as it has the Dane and the German 2 handers.... They have a chieftan, but this seems to be a 1.5 hand sword ;)

The only version of this sword I have seen available is the CAS Iberia version. I would imagine for $220 shipped, the CAS Iberia version is not that good.

Besides going custom (and begging Albion to do a reproduction) are their any other versions of this sword?

Also, what is the largest version of the Claymore available?

Thanks,

Chris
Here it is at Reliks

http://www.reliks.com/merchant.ihtml?pid=2514

Here it is for $207:

http://www.buffalogapoutfitters.com/StoreFron...=240330123

They are on EBAY for less.

Seems like a great looking, nicely proprtioned 2 handed sword, but I was hoping for a higher quality version.

By the way, do you prefer polished or antiqued version for swords that have that choice?

P.S. I have searched the forum threads and see there is a lot of activity on this sword. The size and style are nice, the price is not bad, but it is essentially just not high quality enough... I really wish Albion would make a version of the sword. the length, look, proportions are all very nice...
I think you may find something here ;o)

http://www.claymore-armoury.co.uk/scottish_swords.html

I have handled this stuff, It's very nice :D

best

M
Matt Lewis wrote:
I think you may find something here ;o)

http://www.claymore-armoury.co.uk/scottish_swords.html

I have handled this stuff, It's very nice :D

best

M


I have one of his 58" Lowlanders, and I can confirm they are indeed very nicely made. I almost wish I had gone the extra mile (or so) and got the 75", though :)

Cheers
Stu


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Excellent!

Thank-you so much... I will search the site and grab the 75" version... much appreciated!

Chris

Wow, I had no idea the Dollar was that low against the Pound... 995 GBP = 1947 USD. I remember when it was closer to 1.5 conversion...

Hey, at least it is a real sword and not like the CAS version... $1947 + Visa would charge a fee for conversion also I imagine... + shipping/insurance... would/will be an expensive aquisition....

He makes a beautiful German Landsneckt sword also for 1750 GBP, which would be $3424.00
My only only gripe ,is that last time I heard he won't serve them up sharp !!! was a bit of a turn off for me at that price.

And yes the dollar is weak against the pound at the moment ,but to be honest those sorts of prices wold be a struggle for most people in the UK, everything is so insanely overpriced here. It's generally cheaper for me to get swords from america(including shipping) than to buy them here.


best of luck mate.
Not sharp?

Ummmmm.... that would be a deal breaker. $2,000 for a dull sword and no hollow grind or similar? That is most defintely a deal breaker at any price! If that is the case then forget that. This may have to be a custom deal then. I don't even know what kind of grind he uses... He mentions something on the website about his 'special' shoulder grind.

I don't know anything about his work, but my guess is that the total cost would also have to have VISA surcharges for conversion, also would there be import duty?, then you have shipping/insurance (prob $200.00). My guess is the total cost could run closer to $2700-2800 with all costs considered? At that point, my guess is that A&A or Ollin, or another sword maker might be able to do something similar for less money, or possible a more detailed version of that sword for the same or less money. Is there anything special about his version of thae lowlander Claymore vs what A&A custom could do?

Did you see his 1750 GBP German two hander? t looks like a beauty as well...

I saw a picture of "The Roc" holding a claymore in his testimonials section :)
A hollow grind would be quite incorrect for this type of sword if you want it to be historical. They typically had hexagonal or lenticular-sectioned blades.
I'm just guessing but his special "shoulder grind" could refer to an un-beveled ricasso or possibly to the area where the blade narrows to form the tang, either of these areas are sometimes referred to as the shoulder., in the latter case it may be in reference to a radius on the inside corner rather than a square notch, which can create a point of acutely focused stress.
By way of opinion the Claymore Armoury swords look very good in terms of craftsmanship but in comparison to pictures of surviving originals they are too perfectly made to suit my taste, the originals are often fairly crude in appearance, although very intimidating. This is not a distinction I make with every type of sword but in this case the difference stands out to my eye, it's all a matter of perspective I suppose.
Chris Artman wrote:
Not sharp?

Ummmmm.... that would be a deal breaker. $2,000 for a dull sword and no hollow grind or similar? That is most defintely a deal breaker at any price! If that is the case then forget that. This may have to be a custom deal then. I don't even know what kind of grind he uses... He mentions something on the website about his 'special' shoulder grind.

I don't know anything about his work, but my guess is that the total cost would also have to have VISA surcharges for conversion, also would there be import duty?, then you have shipping/insurance (prob $200.00). My guess is the total cost could run closer to $2700-2800 with all costs considered? At that point, my guess is that A&A or Ollin, or another sword maker might be able to do something similar for less money, or possible a more detailed version of that sword for the same or less money. Is there anything special about his version of thae lowlander Claymore vs what A&A custom could do?

Did you see his 1750 GBP German two hander? t looks like a beauty as well...

I saw a picture of "The Roc" holding a claymore in his testimonials section :)



Yeah, I guess being not sharp is something that either bothers you or doesn't, depending on what you want to do with it. They aren't like training blunts, mind - the edges aren't/don't look chunky or anything. Will try to take a closeup photo of the blade later on - the edge is pretty fine. Personally, I'm not interested in cutting (especially not with 58" - 65" swords like the ones I have purchased from him), but they wouldn't be suitable for cutting unless you wanted to sharpen them yourself. Re the cross section, it is lenticular - a hollow-grind would not be accurate for this kind of sword. I'm not sure about the shoulder grind thing - I saw that mentioned in reference to his wolfen sword on the website, but I haven't seen mention of it previously.

Cheers
Stu
For me, I would want it perfectly sharpened. I defintely like the largest size... I'll have enough one-handed and one-and-a-half-handed swords, so this may as well be 6' 3". If I am correct and the price after importation/conversion/shipping is around $2800.00, I'll have to think long and hard about having this done locally.

"No. 4, 1570AD 75" x 53" BLADE QUILLON BAR & SIDE RING." Hehehe! 75" nice! Just need 1-2 big pieces like this.

On another note, I'm anxious to see the difference between Albion's Dane and the custom Dane from A&A. I have a feeling Albion's version is going to end up less expensive and be every bit as good if not better (in terms of detail) than A&A's custom Dane. Word has it the Dane is getting revised from Albion and will be longer than shown on their site. (Given that the Dane is about $1100.00, it is already a lot less expensive then the custom Dane from A&A, but we have yet to see what Albion's production Dane looks like, etc...)
Chris Artman wrote:
For me, I would want it perfectly sharpened. I defintely like the largest size... I'll have enough one-handed and one-and-a-half-handed swords, so this may as well be 6' 3". If I am correct and the price after importation/conversion/shipping is around $2800.00, I'll have to think long and hard about having this done locally.



Pics attached give an idea of the blade (is actually the blade on my 1495-pattern Claymore which was a bit closer to hand - but is very similar to the blade on my lowlander - though I *think* the 75" version has a narrower blade + no ricasso). On the pic of the side-profile, the middle of the picture is probably an accurate representation, the ends are suffering from wobble + no flash. I read that he won't do fully sharp, but it may be that he will go closer than mine - I never asked him to, so it may be worth you emailing him to see how close he will go to what you want.

Stu


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I finally talked to Thomas this morning (he is 8 hours ahead of me). We talked for about 30 minutes... I told him I was interested in the 75" Lowlander and the one of the German 2 -handers... He says that he is not allowed to sharpen them and DHL won't allow them sharpened either... I think if the country of origin is ok with it, he should sharpen them... He seems all concerned about someone getting hurt... I think if you are paying $2,000.00+ you should be able to get a sharpened sword... He doesn't seem flexible about this. Certainly, I could send it to Ollin for some sharpening I'm sure. To be honest, that sword seems like his specialty. I think it would be hard for Ollin or another maker to make a 75" Lowlander with the same quality... I could be wrong about that though. It is such a big blade though... I also really like his German two handers, they are very nice looking... about $3500.00 too... The furniture looks very impressive... However, there are only two pictures on his website, so he is going to send me a catalog.... I really like that horned (gentle flame) blade and his detailed work on the furniture... I'm looking forward to getting a package of photos/brochure next week or so...
Britain has had a lot of legal discussion surrounding bladed weapons in recent months. That is probably why he won't sharpen the swords, mate.

It's not that expensive to get a sword professionally sharpened. Have a look around, there'll be somebody close enough to make it viable.

A sharpened 75" sword is a serious risk to have lying around though. What are you going to do with it? Forestry?
I suppose that at the very least, I'd like to know the sword is useful just in case the extremely unlikely event it would ever be needed. Further, I think it looks better and more realistic when the sword is ground with intent... When you are spending $2,000.00+ I think you should be able to get all the detail possible. In any case, I look forward to getting his catalog... He makes the best German Zweihander Landshneckt swords I have seen... It looks like they cost around 1750 pounds (about $3500.00 with the dumb weak dollar). I haven't seen anyone produce a zweihander more detailed than Thomas Y...

As far as the blade on the 75 inch version vs the blade on the William Wallace Sword (the second largest lowlander), I'll have to ask him about it... Maybe the William Wallace is nicer in some regards... I think the size of the 75 inch version is fun to look at for sure...
Chris Artman wrote:
I suppose that at the very least, I'd like to know the sword is useful just in case the extremely unlikely event it would ever be needed. Further, I think it looks better and more realistic when the sword is ground with intent... When you are spending $2,000.00+ I think you should be able to get all the detail possible. In any case, I look forward to getting his catalog... He makes the best German Zweihander Landshneckt swords I have seen... It looks like they cost around 1750 pounds (about $3500.00 with the dumb weak dollar). I haven't seen anyone produce a zweihander more detailed than Thomas Y...

As far as the blade on the 75 inch version vs the blade on the William Wallace Sword (the second largest lowlander), I'll have to ask him about it... Maybe the William Wallace is nicer in some regards... I think the size of the 75 inch version is fun to look at for sure...


I also have the Wallace (was the first Yeudall sword I acquired, in fact). The blade is fairly accurate to the original in Stirling museum, and is therefore less complex than the 75" (such as having no fuller). The hilt is fantastic and is what really drew me to buy it.


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The real thing (reverse side of hilt) .

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It's too bad they put those chunky metal ferrules on the Wallace sword and the Lowlander sword.
They look natural to me... not to different from that museum piece hanging in the picture he posted ???
Chad Arnow wrote:
It's too bad they put those chunky metal ferrules on the Wallace sword and the Lowlander sword.


Actually, on the lowlander variants the terminals are pretty much dead accurate to the originals (have pictures of the original swords and compared). On the Wallace, the overall dimensions/proportions of the hilt are very accurate (but without the distortions due to wear and tear), but the terminals are - as you point out - significantly larger and more angular. Artistic license, I guess (same as the style of leather work differs from the real thing). I also suspect there is a bit of manufacturing variation, because I have a picture of another Yeudall Wallace where the terminals seem a little less pronounced.

I truth, the original Wallace sword is actually not at all easy on the eyes, and I think a minor bit of artistic tweaking actually makes for a way better looking sword (all down to personal tastes, of course). Perhaps Albion will save the day and make one with smaller terminals... ;)
Chris Artman wrote:
They look natural to me... not to different from that museum piece hanging in the picture he posted ???


The ferrules are the metal bands at either end of the grip. The original Wallace sword doesn't have them. So why does the repro? See below:

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Stu C wrote:

Actually, on the lowlander variants the terminals are pretty much dead accurate to the originals (have pictures of the original swords and compared). On the Wallace, the overall dimensions/proportions of the hilt are very accurate (but without the distortions due to wear and tear), but the terminals are - as you point out - significantly larger and more angular. Artistic license, I guess (same as the style of leather work differs from the real thing). I also suspect there is a bit of manufacturing variation, because I have a picture of another Yeudall Wallace where the terminals seem a little less pronounced.


I think we're confusing terminology. Terminals are the ends of the quillons in my book. Ferrules are metal bands at either end of the grip.
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