[Timothy Gulics]

It's probably time for me to answer my own question...

1. This is a difficult one, because there are so many great makers putting out great swords. I would want a sword that could bar-none take a lot of punishment, both by the elements and physically. Some have mentioned Criswell katanas... I think these are excellent choices and I would go with them if it were not for Clark's L6 Bainite beast. Upkeep on the L6 might be a bit more difficult, but I think its strength and quality workmanship would pay off in the end.

So, the L6 Bainite, or a Criswell. I would rather have a bastard sword, but I have yet to find one of such remarkable make (L6 bainite) or utility sturdiness (Criswell).

2. Probably the best sword in my collection is my Samson leafblade, so it would be hard not to go with that one. The leafblade might be a bit too fancy to be practical, so... probably my CF Redeemer or Albion Gaddhjalt (Mark I).

Of course I would also need a good knife... as some others have said, a by-knife, dagger, and a bowie would be ideal. Firearms would be ideal... a shotgun for close-up work, a pistol for what the shottie couldn't cover, and an assault rifle for distance targets.

[Steve Fabert]

[Timothy Gulics]

Yeah, I just gave the Gaddhjalt a few test swings... I keep forgetting how cool that little guy is.

One of the new Albion Crecys might be a good investment... same kind of basic, straightforward design and superior quality. Hmm. Or one of the Mark 1 Crecys? Perhaps I've found a worthy bastard sword after all.

[Patrick Kelly]

[Steve Fabert]

[J. Kevin Fox]

Arms & Armor Durer would be a good choice. I even tried mine out on horseback.

[Felix Wang]

Well, in a post-apocalyptic scenario versatile weapons would be a plus. If guns and ammunition are scarce, full plate is going to be even rarer. Any weapon optimized for armor-cracking might be lacking elsewhere. I would go with a sword like my MS 1502 Banneret - a short stiff bastard sword. It doesn't give up to much in length to other longswords, is light enough to really be used as a one-hander, will cut well, and is stiff enough for halfsword work if I did encounter full plate armor. It also doesn't weigh a lot - which is important if you are going to have this weapon with you all day, every day. As for polearms, maybe something a little lighter than a poleaxe, although that is a fine choice, I'd probably go with a bill.

[Joel Chesser]

i would want either an Albion crecy, or an albion Next gen Gaddhjalt.
I only own a Valiant armoury Agincourt, so i would take that and in both cases i would carrry my bowie knife. Either way i would make sure that i would be a force to be recconed with.

[Dan Tucker]

I think I'd go with a good, versatile cut-and-thrust sword; the albion viceroy would be nice. but I'd also like a good slashing blade like their vassal or grosse messer; a real solid cutter . something like a falchion would also be handy for brush-cutting and kindling-chopping and stuff like that. but I'm not sure how much vegetation would be around after an apocalypse. some kind of handy polearm like a poleaxe or bill would be great too and I'd keep my eye out for any kind of armor.
of course, I'd rather settle a conflict over a beer than at sword point

[Gary Venable]

Since the topic is for a sword I would have to say my 1562 The Lady Carmen Long Sword. My Baron would be tempting but, I could swing that Lady Carmen all day without fatigue. She is also fast and has a great reach.

[Elling Polden]

Ufortunately, I dont have much of a collection to pick from, but here is what I would LIKE to pack;
(this is asuming that I'm piecing together something I'm likely to walk around in, rather that my Main Battle Knig-Hit™ gear)

The outfit:
Coat of plates over Kevlar class II balistic vest
modern Knee and elbow pads
My BestArmour gauntlets

The Weapons
Albion Next Gen Templar, or similar type X sword
(Alternately, a basket hilt schivona)
Buckler!!
Medium/long dagger, in a scramax style scabard across the back.
My Samekniv (Big, simple broad bladed knife), for utility work. It cant be fast drawn without a scabard mod, though.

If I'm expecting touble, I might bring a poleax as well, or a small crossbow.


And, oh, ice hockey padding on one arm...

Postappocalyticaly yours
Elling

[Nathan Cole]

The sword I trust the most is my Cas/iberia arming sword though I have never seen the tang . I plan to get a real sword soon, a nice hand & 1/4 (Does anyone make 1&1/4 swords ) probably a Trim. Of course I would keep my enfield/bayonet combo until I ran out of ammo. The enfield bolt action rifle is accurate and rugged and hardly requires cleaning. I also have a long bow which would not be too hard to replace ammo for and a sling which only needs rocks.

A new question. How does one care for quality steel in a post-nuke situation? I have the feeling that grease from my unwashed hair would not be the best preserving solution Fish and game could provide fat /oil but it would require some rendering and is that good stuff to treat steel?

Nathan Cole

[Jay Barron]

Of the swords in my collection, I would take my Al Massey Scottish baskethilt. She's definitely a reliable beastie.

[William Goodwin]

A wickedly sharp Grosse Messer or a Schiavona. From my own collection, about the only one I'd trust (that's truly functional) would be my Paul Chen Mortuary along with a buckler.

[Douglas S]

Let's see, a sporterized .45 in the left and an early 19th-century sabre in the other?

[Joe Caswell]

First Choice: 7.62X39. A case of ammo could last a lifetime if used judiciously (though that might not be too long under the described circumstances.
My training is Epee, a very lethal 19th century duelling weapon. It's great limitation, of course, is a tendency to distribute mortal injuries without a lot of knockdown power, and that's something you definitely want when facing some Mad-Max style Neanderthal like in the movies. Also, I think it's too light to parry or counter-attack with opposition against the types of weapons you're likely to encounter (staffs, pipes or heavier swords).
Thus my choice would have to be an old U.S. "Patton" saber (or one of the early 20th century equivalents from Europe). These weapons feel most familiar to fencers, offer great hand protection (unlike most swords), are rugged ... military tested and approved for combat, and are usually just heavy enough to be used against heavier weapons, if used with a little intelligence. Truth is, there would be a lot of attrition all at once in this hypothetical world. The smart play would be to lay low, conserve your ammo and network with like-minded folks to band together against the zombies or gangs or whatever.

[J.G. Grubbs]

I would take both my Massey two-hand Viking and my OdinBlades Warder. Both are super tough and wicked cutters.

[Josh S.]

If it's limited to swords:

Albion's Regent, Peter Johnsson's Brescia Spadona, A&A's English Longsword or Angus Trim's AT1518 for basic, all-around purposes. A bastard sword would be my first choice as a primary weapon, as it could be used both with a shield for more protection(which would probably be better against lone opponents), or with both hands for faster attacks with better range and control(which would probably be better against multiple opponents). With a hand-and-a-half, you get more versatility with your weapon, so it's definitely my first choice.

As a close-range, secondary weapon, I would take Albion's Sovereign or Angus Trim's AT1557. For this, I'd want a fairly short one-handed sword that is also light enough to deliver repeated lightning-quick strikes. Against armored opponents, Peter Johnsson's Tritonia would be good, but it would suffer against lighter, faster targets. A&A's Katzbalger is another close call, but it's almost TOO short for general close-in use, plus it wouldn't handle all too well in thrusts.

If possible, I'd also take a large, powerful sword to deal with the particularly heavy targets; for this, I'd use Albion's Knecht, a Maciejowski chopper(haven't really been able to find any yet), or the two-handed flammard I'm trying to design right now(which, if I ever get enough money, I'll probably comission to Raven Armouries, Albion Armorers, or Arms & Armor). I'd honestly prefer the Renaissance two-hander design, considering it can be half-sworded; but at the same time, I can't deny the simple brutality of the two cutters mentioned.


Now, if we're NOT limited to JUST swords -but still limited to handled weapons- I'd love nothing more than some good, simple impact weapons. Lutel's 17004(flail), A&A's German flail and Iberian mace, a "holy water sprinkler"(which I haven't been able to find), Cold Steel's warhammer, Cold Steel's Vietnam hatchet, and this bearded axe by Gränsfors Bruks would be some of my first choices. Also among the first on my list would be throwing knives, and most important of all, a good, solid kukhri knife.


My OWN collection at this point is pretty meager, so I'd have to stick with either a Windlass Irish hand-and-a-half, a Windlass two-handed German flamberge, or a Cold Steel warhammer.

[Sean Flynt]

There's probably value in looking at which swords infantry chose after the ascendence of firearms-by, say, 1600. The "good, stiff tuck" of the English pikemen apparently was a short, stiff, tapering double-edged sword. The short, broad, thick-bladed, single-edged hanger with simple hilt (cross or plate and knucklebow) rose along with firearms. As late as 1750 the hanger was a staple of Anglo-European infantry kit. The similar falchion remained in use well into the 17th century. All were abandoned as general military issue by the time of the American Revolution, especially by American troops, who seem to have preferred belt axes and knives. By the time of the American Civil War, the sword was mostly just a badge of rank, but look at many of the down & dirty fighting knives favored by Confederate infantry-they're long, broad, single edged with simple hilt (cross and knucklbow). Some of them aren't too far removed from the 18th century infantry hanger. The lesson seems to be that when you're going to be wearing a sword all day every day in rough conditions that not only subject the weapon to great stress but also preclude regular maintenence, and when you may have to use it for tasks other than single combat (as a hunting sword, light axe, hammer, can opener, etc.), and when it's going to be your second line of defense anytime you can get your hands on a firearm, it might pay to have a lightweight, short, thick, single edged cutting blade with simple hilt of brass or some other non-ferrous material to prevent rust (or steel hilt japanned, browned or otherwise protected). So...I'd take a hanger/falchion/cutlass/dusagge of the 17th-18th century.

[R. Laine]

I don't have it yet, but my upcoming Al Massey falcata would definetely be my first choice. A thickish 19-inch long forward-curving blade with a strong tip for thrusting and a false edge... Easy to carry around, too, and would do well as a survival tool as well, I'd think. Can't wait to have it!

Other swords that I'd like to have with me in such a scenario (well, I'd like to have them anyway...) would be the Albion Tritonia or the upcoming Sovereign. Both leave the other hand free and feature a rather impressive-looking cutting blade.

Of course, I'd also want a shield of some kind to go with them.


Rabbe