[Matt Shields]

I am wondering if modern Almond Oil is suitable for sword care, as it was historically.

[Jean Thibodeau]

I am curious about this also and I hope somebody out there notices your post. (Your post looked lonely out there with no replies so far.)

I have " Sweet Almond Oil" in my medicine cabinet that is recommended as an Emollient for chapped skin so I know were to find it. (Assuming that this is the same as what you are talking about.)

How about other natural oils like olive oil? Do natural oils have advantages over the modern alternatives?

One advantage would be with knives that would be in contact with food if the oil chosen is not toxic. (Who wants to eat gun oil! (Although this is not an issue with swords.)

Anyway welcome to this forum I am also new to it .

[Jeremy V. Krause]

I used to use olive oil and maintained an A&A Irish sword with this for four years. Olive oil is an accepted period way to maintain the steel. Recently I have switched to 3in1 I do a wipedown and reoil about once every two weeks and any time my skin touches the steel of course. The reason I switched is because though the olive oil works well in protecting your sword it seems to discolor the steel WHEN IT IS ON. Now, when you wipe it off the steel is normal but when it's applied and hung on the wall it's just not as shiny and clean looking as it is with the 3in1 or flitz metal polish. I'm thinking about trying Breakfree which many people swear by. But olive oil is cool if you want to be authentic.

[Jeffrey Hull]

I like to use boiled linseed oil for these reasons:

It has never let me down. It dries to a thin tough sheen, with only the slightest hint of amber colouring (big deal), and moreover, I am sure that it has prevented rust both in general and on those few occasions when I should have been more careful in storing steel items.

It is a period material. It has been used as the base of paints for fine arts for centuries, and is derived from flax, a fiber that was known amongst BC Celts and others for linen textiles.

It can be thinned with another period material -- turpentine. Note: here it should be stated that as each of these substances are flammable, one should take care to apply them and store them tightly away from fire and with proper air-circulation when using. The drying of the applied oil takes at least eight hours, though you may do well to let it sit for as long as three days. It is worth the wait, I think.

Good luck,

JH

[Arik Estus]

Almost all of the organic oils can become rancid over time. But any of them should work.
I have been useing pure walnut oil on a blade to see if it works. So far so good.
For hunting knives, and such, the Ol Timers say use animal grease on them. Of course that
will become rancid as well even quicker. But, if you were useing your blade all the time and it was being wiped down after each use it most likely wouldnt matter. It maybe fortunate we dont need them each day

[Timothy Gulics]

I've always wondered about this, but have steered away because of stories of discoloration and the oil becoming rancid. Right now I either use 3-in-1 or Renaissance Wax. I'm thinking of trying Break Free, as I have heard good things about it and Albion recommends it.

[Alexi Goranov]