Posted: Sat 19 Jan, 2008 1:39 pm Post subject: cross guards and pommels
I would like to discuss on something for my new project because i will begin it soon...
first thing on spike hilt i would like to know if it takes a little of carving to fit the blade more securely of if just take a hole to the size of the tang?
second question if i don't want to peen the tang how deep should i dig in the pommel if i want to "screw" it on the tang?
if you want details of what kind of pommel/crossguard it is like the templar from Albion and as for crossguard it is a spike hilt like i wrote onthe second line of this question.
Posted: Sat 19 Jan, 2008 11:54 pm Post subject: Re: cross guards and pommels
Etienne Hamel wrote:
I would like to discuss on something for my new project because i will begin it soon...
first thing on spike hilt i would like to know if it takes a little of carving to fit the blade more securely of if just take a hole to the size of the tang?
second question if i don't want to peen the tang how deep should i dig in the pommel if i want to "screw" it on the tang?
if you want details of what kind of pommel/crossguard it is like the templar from Albion and as for crossguard it is a spike hilt like i wrote on the second line of this question.
thanks for the help i will really appreciate it.
One problem with screwing on the tang if the screw treads are directly in the pommel hole is to have the pommel end up properly oriented on the handle relative to guard and blade if it's a disk pommel. ( A spherical pommel is not an issue ).
A rectangular hole in the pommel and a separate bolt to secure the assembly would be better I think ?
A cold peening combined with epoxy might be a simpler alternative ?
Just suggestions as I haven't ever done this myself so I hope some sword makers can give you more precise and reliable advice.
Oh, and just a square hole for the tang might work but might leave a visible gap behind the blade shoulders and the face of the guard facing the shoulder: This looks bad to me at least even if it doesn't affect the strength if the assembly.
Even if very well fitted one may see a gap or light between the guard and blade unless there is a groove cut in for the full width of the blade shoulders.
If you only have access to a drill press and not a milling machine a series of shallow holes could be drilled next to each halfway through the thickness of the guard for the wider part and completely through the guard at the width of the tang.
The hard part may be to clean this up with hand files. ( I'm mostly imagining how I would do this myself with limited equipment ). Oh, a dremel might work and I think there are fixtures made for the dremel to hold the tool and use it as a milling machine ?
( NOTE: Get back to me in a P.M. before I do your drawing if this changes what I will draw ).You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
Shahril Dzulkifli
Location: Malaysia Joined: 13 Dec 2007 Likes: 1 page
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