| Author |
Message |
Craig Peters
|
 Posted: Mon 06 Aug, 2007 9:18 am Post subject: Rust?! |
 |
|
|
Just the other day I used 1500 grit sandpaper to remove the rust from my three Albion swords which had begun to accumulate rust. After having sanded them down, (using water with the sandpaper, but I did frequently wipe the blades clean), I gave them a healthy application of gun oil. However, looking at my swords today, just over a week after I sanded and oiled them, they look as bad or worse than they did before I removed the rust. Any idea why this might be? I live in a semi-arid climate, so humidity is not a significant factor.
|
|
  |
 |
Robin Smith
|
| Posted: Mon 06 Aug, 2007 9:42 am Post subject: |
|
|
Not sure what would be causing it, but try removing the rust with a dry rub down with steel wool, followed by some metal polish, and seal it by wiping with a silicon gun/reel cloth. Thats what I did when I noticed a rusty palm print on the pommel of one of my swords...
A furore Normannorum libera nos, Domine
|
|
 |
|
Etienne Hamel
Location: Granby (QC) canada Joined: 09 Sep 2006
Posts: 443
|
| Posted: Mon 06 Aug, 2007 9:49 am Post subject: |
|
|
|
I did the same thing on one of my sword and it did not do that and i live in a humid place...what could it be...
|
|
|
|
|
Hugo Voisine
|
| Posted: Mon 06 Aug, 2007 9:56 am Post subject: |
|
|
Hi Craig,
I suggest that you use car wax next time. I've been using Turtle Wax for a while now and it does a good job at preventing rust.
« Que dites-vous ?... C'est inutile ?... Je le sais !
Mais on ne se bat pas dans l'espoir du succès !
Oh ! non, c'est bien plus beau lorsque c'est inutile ! »
|
|
|
|
|
James Arlen Gillaspie
Industry Professional
Location: upstate NY Joined: 10 Nov 2005
Posts: 587
|
| Posted: Mon 06 Aug, 2007 12:17 pm Post subject: |
|
|
'Fluid Film', available at John Deere dealers, is the best rust preventer I know of, and I have tried MANY things. It's what I use on my swords and armour, and it can get pretty humid around Albany NY in the summer. I still use 'Simoniz' on the stuff collectors send me to work on, though, since they have that preference.
jamesarlen.com
|
|
 |
|
|
Joe Fults
|
| Posted: Mon 06 Aug, 2007 12:37 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Hugo Voisine wrote: | Hi Craig,
I suggest that you use car wax next time. I've been using Turtle Wax for a while now and it does a good job at preventing rust. |
I have had good luck with turtle wax as well.
Alternately, just ignore it. The surface rust will typically stabilize and stop at some point. If you consider it to all be character, a bit of rust here and there is not so bad.
"The goal shouldn’t be to avoid being evil; it should be to actively do good." - Danah Boyd
|
|
|
|
|
|
Angus Trim
|
| Posted: Mon 06 Aug, 2007 3:52 pm Post subject: Re: Rust?! |
|
|
| Craig Peters wrote: | | Just the other day I used 1500 grit sandpaper to remove the rust from my three Albion swords which had begun to accumulate rust. After having sanded them down, (using water with the sandpaper, but I did frequently wipe the blades clean), I gave them a healthy application of gun oil. However, looking at my swords today, just over a week after I sanded and oiled them, they look as bad or worse than they did before I removed the rust. Any idea why this might be? I live in a semi-arid climate, so humidity is not a significant factor. |
Hi Craig
I'd say you didn't get all the corrosion off to start with. Sometimes, surface oxidation can develop, where some of it actually gets under the surface. Right at the surface if you will, but when taken off with light sandpaper or the like, sometimes there's still corrosion, just not where it can be seen.
It doesn't have to be deep to cause a problem, less than .0005 inch.
In a case like that, it can come roaring back, even with oil on top.......
If you want to get rid of it, I'd do it with something heavier than 1500 grit sandpaper. Then, instead of gun oil, I'd use the equivalent of 40 weight oil on it for a week or two. Heavy coat, store where it won't matter if a bit of oil drips.
Alternatively, you could do like Joe Fults suggests, let it rust......Its not like its going to rust thru in our lifetimes......
swords are fun
|
|
|
|
|
Jared Smith
|
| Posted: Mon 06 Aug, 2007 4:15 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I sometimes use the grey ScotchBrite with gun bore cleaner. This is a pretty thorough cleaning if you have removed all visibile rust and are still treating it with bore solvent. Keep in mind, the solvent is intended to work on high pressure barrels that may absorb gun powder as deeply as 0.030" into the metal. In such a case, you would normally use it several days in a row on the barrel. Then follow up with a coat of oil when you are sure it is cleaned. Anyway, I have not had the problem of the rust comming "roaring back" in short periods.
I do live in a humid SouthEast U.S. climate where condensation is dripping off the household windows in the early morning hours..
Absence of evidence is not necessarily evidence of absence!
|
|
|
|
|
Bryce Felperin
Location: San Jose, CA Joined: 16 Feb 2006
Posts: 552
|
| Posted: Mon 06 Aug, 2007 4:29 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I use 3M sanding pads or a rust eraser followed by a good polish with a good metal paste polish. Then I coat liberally with Renaissance Wax. I've been doing it for awhile now and have had little or no problems. I find that what the sanding pads and rust eraser miss, the polish tends to catch. It also makes it look nicer after the sanding.
Our Renaissance Faire guild does demos and lets patrons hold some weapons a lot, so cleaning and waxing after every faire becomes second nature to me after awhile. In the end, it's just like cleaning your guns after firing them. ;-)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
This is a standard topic