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Brent Thacker
Location: Dayton, Ohio Joined: 13 Jun 2008
Posts: 11
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 Posted: Fri 13 Jun, 2008 9:20 pm Post subject: |
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No, i do trust people here. if i didn't i wouldn't have been reading review for the past few weeks which are very interesting:)
I'm just really wondering what would be the most intersting to have. sorry if i sound distrusting. I'm just so torn since i see all these interesting pieces....
are there opinions on this one as well?
http://www.reliks.com/merchant.ihtml?pid=2112
Only in death does duty end.
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Joshua C.
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| Posted: Fri 13 Jun, 2008 9:22 pm Post subject: |
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| Brent Thacker wrote: | | Also, where could I get a decent cutlass for my fiance's costume? She's a pirate wench. lol. But i'd like to surprise her with a decent sword to go along with her outfit. |
http://www.sword-buyers-guide.com/pirate-cutlass.html
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Joshua C.
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| Posted: Fri 13 Jun, 2008 10:26 pm Post subject: |
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| Brent Thacker wrote: | | Also, where could I get a decent cutlass for my fiance's costume? She's a pirate wench. lol. But i'd like to surprise her with a decent sword to go along with her outfit. |
A whole bunch of swords here
http://www.realmcollections.com/c365/pirate-swords.html
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Brent Thacker
Location: Dayton, Ohio Joined: 13 Jun 2008
Posts: 11
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| Posted: Fri 13 Jun, 2008 11:18 pm Post subject: |
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http://www.myArmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=7863
ooo, what about this one for my outfit? I'm sorry for drawing this out. I'm just overwhelmed at the moment with all of these weapons.
Only in death does duty end.
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Torsten F.H. Wilke
Location: Irvine Spectrum, CA Joined: 01 Jul 2006
Posts: 250
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| Posted: Fri 13 Jun, 2008 11:44 pm Post subject: |
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Brent, that link is showing a thread titled "Shield Typology". I'm guessing that's not what you were wanting to refer to...
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William Goodwin
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| Posted: Sat 14 Jun, 2008 3:27 am Post subject: |
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For the kit your wanting...I agree with others about a single hander.
I must says this though....I've had nothing but good luck with the Windlass pieces I own. My last
was the 15th c. longsword and after a bit of sharpening on my part...it cuts just fine. And the flex is near
spot on. Windlass gets such a bad wrap alot of times, but they've come a long way from where
they use to be.
Ultimately the choice is yours of course...just take some time and research as much as possible...always helps in the end.
Roanoke Sword Guilde
roanokeswordguilde@live.com
"I was born for this" - Joan of Arc
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Bren O
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| Posted: Sat 14 Jun, 2008 5:58 am Post subject: |
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I have the Albrecht, and only have good things to say about it. It's certainly durable. I know others who can't recommend the Albrecht strongly enough.
I have also heard fantastic reviews on the Windlass type XIV, though I don't have it. Though I find it a very attractive little sword.
Not too keen on the DSA. Purely due to the thick edge. Do NOT underestimate how difficult it would be for you to put a GOOD edge on them. And if you don't need an edge you can consider the Hanwei Practical Hand and Half, which can be purchased for around $100 US, lucky sods.
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Brent Thacker
Location: Dayton, Ohio Joined: 13 Jun 2008
Posts: 11
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Chad Arnow
myArmoury Team
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| Posted: Sat 14 Jun, 2008 7:06 am Post subject: |
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| Brent Thacker wrote: | http://www.museumreplicas.com/museumreplicas/detail.aspx?ID=677
that's what I meant to post, sorry. |
Since you're not going for a totally historical look for your outfit/kit, you can buy what you like.  The Archer's Falchion looks to be a good buy. With a single-edged in that shorter length, I wouldn't think you'd have to worry about it being overly flexible.
The Valiant Armoury (http://www.valiant-armoury.com/) Practical swords designed by Gus Trim look to be a good value and just above your price range at about $300. The Signature line designed by Christian Fletcher and Gus should be even better, though they are historically inspired rather than striving to be historically accurate.
If you're willing to wait a while and save up, you can move up to something like a Del Tin or Albion Squireline in the $400-$500 range.
For an arming sword, the "Type IV" Gary posted (which should have been named the Type XIV) is one of the better Windlass efforts I've seen. The longsword with the complex hilt (15th century longsword) is a nice piece, though the blade may be a little too flexible.
Honestly, in this price range, there are going to be tradeoffs: compromises in design/execution that come with the price range. Windlass tends to be a little better in the looks department and handling department as well as in weight, but can suffer from overly flexible blades and occasional problems with hilt durability (though that's improved a lot). Swords like Darksword may be tougher but suffer in looks (in my opinion) and have an edge that is much thicker than Windlass's, making sharpening potentially harder and creating a less than ideal blade cross-section for cutting. Imperial Weapons' Generation 2 swords (http://imperialweapons.com/) are sharpened and known for toughness, but are still overweight and often have guards that are chunky and assemblies that are unattractive and ahistorical. Their new Hank Reinhardt series offers vast improvements in many areas and may prove to be one of the best values in this price range, combining toughness with decent looks and pretty impressive historical detail for the price range.
ChadA
http://chadarnow.com/
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Joe Fults
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| Posted: Sat 14 Jun, 2008 7:48 am Post subject: |
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| Joshua C. wrote: | | Joe Fults wrote: | | Joshua C. wrote: | | What are tougher brands? I thought they would be the toughest, because they are made to be tougher than historical swords. |
Really? Tougher than historical swords? So they are are made to be tougher for a target market of overweight modern civilians (me) who might cut some foam, or some plastic, or maybe some wood, than the historical sword was when the target audience was composed of professionals (or at least semi-professionals) who were going to use the tool to kill each other? Really?  |
Swords were mainly designed to cut human bodies. There were plenty of broken swords on the battle field. Darkswords are made for steel on steel contact. |
Saying there were plenty of broken swords on battlefields means what? How many swords got used on this battlefield? How is broken defined in this instance? How many broke? How many Darkswords were in the battlefield sample? How did they fare by comparison?
Plenty?
If you really like DSA please share some more of the reasons why. What have you handled from them? What have you liked and disliked? What have you handled from other vendors? What were the comparative trade offs between the swords you have handled?
"The goal shouldn’t be to avoid being evil; it should be to actively do good." - Danah Boyd
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Joe Fults
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| Posted: Sat 14 Jun, 2008 7:52 pm Post subject: |
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To me it means very little to make a sword that is tough and more durable if that is the only criterion being considered. Anybody can over engineer a tool and then call it tough. There are three sword makers at the local faire that make very tough swords. I bought a sword from one of them about 7 years ago. At the time I thought it was very cool that I could use it to jack up my car. Later I realized that crowbar and spud bar makers have known how to make tough and durable steel tools for a very long time, and that is what I had so proudly purchased when I bought my very tough sword.
Call me crazy but I want more than tough in a sword!
"The goal shouldn’t be to avoid being evil; it should be to actively do good." - Danah Boyd
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Gary A. Chelette
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| Posted: Mon 16 Jun, 2008 7:54 am Post subject: |
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| Brent Thacker wrote: |
Also, where could I get a decent cutlass for my fiance's costume? She's a pirate wench. lol. But i'd like to surprise her with a decent sword to go along with her outfit. |
I have one of these and it's a nice piece. Very pretty also. Evey time one of my SCA friends pick this one up, they want to go outside and hit something with it. It just feels like that in your hand.http://www.kultofathena.com/product~item~5003...utlass.htm
Nice price too.
Are you scared, Connor?
No, Cousin Dugal. I'm not!
Don't talk nonsense, man. I peed my kilt the first time I went into battle.
Oh, aye. Angus pees his kilt all the time!
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Li Jin
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| Posted: Mon 16 Jun, 2008 9:41 pm Post subject: HI |
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Good evening Mr.Thacker. I guess I can give you some advice, I been through a very difficult process of choosing
a sword. Really it all depend on which one you really and what you want it to be, if you don't want it sharp, choose from
Windlass or Dark sword. You might have heard what the windlass swords are too flexible, but it wasn't true at all. I bought
three swords from windlass couple months ago and they are all pretty stiff and reasonable flexibility. Windlass are pretty
bad back then perhaps, but they changes. If you want a good price and sharp sword, you should buy the Hanwei hand and
a half from www.kultofathena.com because they have really good service and good price. There are so many different
swords manufactures that you can choose from, and it really takes time to choose the one you like and it might not be good as you think. Hope these words helps.
Jin
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P. Cha
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| Posted: Tue 17 Jun, 2008 1:19 am Post subject: |
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Why a hand and a half for an archer outfit?!?
In anycase, any of the swords you mentioned and has been mentioned will suit the need of a sword for a costume piece very well. So it all depends on what you like the looks of best for that.
For hand and a half cut and thrust in the 225 dollar range, I think personally like the gen 2 lucerne best in feel. Yes it is a lot more stabby oriented then cutting, but it does feel very good in the hands one or two handed. Of course you really MUST do something about the god aweful handle to make it into a good costume piece....
If your want a cut and thrust longsword, basically DSA gothic is the only one form their line up that will work from that company. The norman is neither a cut and thrust or a longsword.
The hanwei does feel very nice. I just have issues with that hollow pommel...and the pommel to me is too big for my taste. But that is my taste and has nothing to do with your choice  . Since hanwei is in the process of changing all the pommel (or maybe they did for the new run) I would wait if this sword is what you really like. Also my main issue with hanwei is that their customer service is pretty bad. I have seen a fair share of PPK and PPK elites break in dojo cutting and basically it is a HUGE pain to get them to honor their warranty. Because according to their customer service department, using a katana designed for dojo cutting and using it in a dojo for cutting is what costitues abuse. I REALLY hope they fix that soon because I REALLY want their tinker designed bastard sword when it comes out. Then again, you can just get it cheaper from say AoV or KoA AND get great service to boot...woot.
Windlass...umm the one you picked out while a pretty good windless sword seems HORRIBLY out of touch with your costume. But hey if you like the looks, all the power to ya. Anyways it's a good sword...but not really a cut and thrust sword (well it's suppose to be I think...it just isn't).
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Bryce Felperin
Location: San Jose, CA Joined: 16 Feb 2006
Posts: 552
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| Posted: Tue 17 Jun, 2008 10:37 am Post subject: |
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For my two cents...
Get the best quality sword for the money you can afford. If you get a simple wall hanger/belt hanger that is not good quality then you'll just end up throwing/giving/selling it away later anyway.
For me I started out with a $300 sword from Hanwei and progressed up through $1000 swords eventually. Once you handle a good sword there is no going back to cheaper ones. ;-)
So don't compromise, get something good with the best budget you can work with. In a year or two you'll thank yourself and not be thinking that you wasted a couple hundred on a cheap sword you don't want to have anymore.
Bryce
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Steven Janus
Location: Florida, USA Joined: 12 Mar 2008
Posts: 187
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| Posted: Thu 19 Jun, 2008 3:15 pm Post subject: |
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Some food for thought. I own two Dark swords. I own the 1340 which I had highly customized and a newer 1332 which is also highly customized. Both of them were done by Brian over at DBK Custom Swords. The older 12 century two hander 1340 was a good blade but I wouldn't buy it again. It is simply too heavy and the edge was far too thick to make for a good cutting sword. I tried and failed misserably sharpenning it...
On the other hand, my 1332 gothic sword which is part of Eyal's new production run can cut. I had Brian of DBK sharpen it proffessionally. Now there is still an obvious secondary bevel mind you but it DOES and I repeat DOES cut water bottles and it even handels pretty well. It is a 48 inch long sword with a 2 inch wide base and weighs about 3 lbs 9 ounces. I weighed it on my electronic bathroom scale and that is what it said. So the 1332 is a GOOD sword. It is not 100% historical. It is a mix of XV styles. Closest is an XVIA with a fish tail pommel from an XVIII. Once sharpenned it does make for a modest cutting sword for the money and a great thruster. The stock edge is now 1 mm btw so is far easier to deal with to get a good edge. Keep in mind, I'm new to cutting so I can't give a 100% accurate opinion but I did manage to kill three watter bottles in one session my first time out. I also destroyed a vegtable oil plastic bottle. So it CAN handel light targets. IF anyone wants to see what the blade looks like, here you go.
http://www.dbkcustomswords.com/images/DSA/DSAGothSJB1024.jpg
I do not have a picture of it unsheathed up. This is actually a picture Brian took of it himself. Since then some of the dye has come out of the grip. I got it a bit wet unfortunatley. I think he may have over done the dye a bit too. Every time I picked it up my hands turned green! Other than that, his work is excellent!
Newbie Sword collector
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Joe Fults
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| Posted: Thu 19 Jun, 2008 4:20 pm Post subject: |
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Steve, a very nice post.
"The goal shouldn’t be to avoid being evil; it should be to actively do good." - Danah Boyd
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This is a standard topic