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Crispin Yingst

Joined: 14 Oct 2006

Posts: 6

PostPosted: Sun 12 Nov, 2006 5:12 pm    Post subject: Fechtbuch on clubs?!         Reply with quote

Well I thought I'd write my own. I've read some German longsword fechtbuchs and thought it was time that the granddaddy of weapons got a manual. I haven't really practiced a martial art formally, so if any of these techniques are fatally bad, please don't hesitate to point it out. As you can see, a lot of this is based on the German longsword, and I've even infringed on the terms of swordplay by using them with sticks, but longsword is just amazing :) Maybe later I'll add some plates, but drawing people is tough. I'm not done yet, so but any suggestions from actual fencers would be good. Thanks.

Fighting with the Cudgel.

A. The weapon itself should be cut from any hard, heavy wood. Ironwood (hornbeam) is prefered, as it is heavier and tougher than even oak. The section cut from a sapling should be two to three feet in length and one-and-a-quarter to two inches wide. To keep a longer club light enough to be manuvered, it would naturally be of a lesser diameter. And the reverse applies to make sure that a shorter club will have enough mass to be effective. The wood should be left to dry for at least one month. After that, carve down the ends of the cudgel so they won't be dented as easily. Keep the bark on. The cudgel is now complete.

B. The weapon will taper from one end to the other, as is the nature of trees. This is a striking weapon, so one must hold the thinner end, and that way, the club will have enough force. For improved balance, generally hold the club several inches from the bottom, in a "hammer" grip. This will also allow a second thrusting surface when at close range. Also at closer grappling range, the wise cudgel-wielder will shift their grip more toward the middle for quicker blows.

C. Master Strikes

I. Zornhau-
Diagonal cut from your upper right to lower left (if ye are right handed). If the opponent uses this against you, one way to defend yourself would be to aim another zornhau at their head or torso. By doing this, you will naturally block their attack. When attacking, it is best to use a passing step.
II. Lowenhau- (Lion strike?)
Another way to defend against a zornhau to you would be as follows: jump back and to the left, dodging the attack. Now you are open the attack their arm (the one holding the club). Do the dodge and attack in one motion, so that the opponent would not have time to bring their weapon back.
III. Schietelhau-
If they try to strike at your legs, step back and avoid the attack. You can now strike the opponent on the head or outreached arm with your cudgel, even though they can't reach you.
IV. Reverse Zwerchau-
Block a zornhau by holding the club up, almost horizontally. Make sure the tip of the club is pointing to the left. After the opponent's cudgel makes contact, draw your club along theirs, striking their weapon arm.
V. Schielhau-
Do a schielhau. This is tough to explain in words, so refer the article on myArmoury's Call to Arms: The German Longsword. It has a great description and pictures of the strike.
VI. Krumphau-
As the opponent thrusts at you, or reaches their weapon out, step to the side and simply swing the club in a windshield-wiperesque fashion.

Coming soon: section D. Guards, E. Footwork, F. Use when the opponent has a weapon other than a club, G. Use of the cudgel with a shield.
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