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Thomas Hoogendam




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PostPosted: Wed 06 Jul, 2005 6:41 am    Post subject: Oke, slight rust problem.         Reply with quote

I got my Albion NG Knight in yesterday, and today I cleaned some of the slight marks you get when a sword is in transit for 3 weeks. Some patination on the pommel and guard, but I left that, looks nice with the light-brown grip. Happy

However, there a few slight, hardly noticable marks on the blade. Took care of that, no problem. I don't mind scuffs and such on a blade.

But after a closer look, I noticed that between the very, very tiny space between the guard and the blade, are some dark brown/black-ish marks. I can't get there with Scotch-Brite, polishing agent and a cloth won't work too, can't reach it.

If it's not a hazard, I don't mind. But I should I be worried? Could that marks become a big enough problem that it can cause blade failure??
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Chad Arnow
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PostPosted: Wed 06 Jul, 2005 6:49 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I would think it would have to heavily rust, uncared for and exposed to more harsh elements, for an extended period (many years) before it would cause the blade to fail. In fact, some patination can actually be beneficial as it can prevent further oxidization.

Remember, historical swords of the Middle Ages weren't dismountable, so this is an issue they would have faced, too.

You may try guiding the scotchbrite (carefully, of course) with something thin like a paint scraper. Or you could put some metal polish on the end of a toothpick and try to get in there that way. Perhaps you could drip oil down there, though I'd run that by Albion before trying it.

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Thomas Hoogendam




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PostPosted: Wed 06 Jul, 2005 6:55 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Chad Arnow wrote:
I would think it would have to heavily rust, uncared for and exposed to more harsh elements, for an extended period (many years) before it would cause the blade to fail. In fact, some patination can actually be beneficial as it can prevent further oxidization.

Remember, historical swords of the Middle Ages weren't dismountable, so this is an issue they would have faced, too.

You may try guiding the scotchbrite (carefully, of course) with something thin like a paint scraper. Or you could put some metal polish on the end of a toothpick and try to get in there that way. Perhaps you could drip oil down there, though I'd run that by Albion before trying it.


The toothpick and polish sounds good, I'll give that a try. Thanks Chad.
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Chad Arnow
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PostPosted: Wed 06 Jul, 2005 7:46 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Another thought: could you squeeze the corner of a sheet of an appropriate-grit sandpaper down in there?
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Thomas Hoogendam




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PostPosted: Wed 06 Jul, 2005 8:37 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Chad Arnow wrote:
Another thought: could you squeeze the corner of a sheet of an appropriate-grit sandpaper down in there?


What would be an appropriate grit sandpaper??
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Chad Arnow
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PostPosted: Wed 06 Jul, 2005 8:40 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Thomas Hoogendam wrote:
What would be an appropriate grit sandpaper??


The appropriate grit would be whatever is closest to Albion's standard finish, so it doesn't mar the finish. I'd check with them. Maybe 600 or 800? That's a guess, though.

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Patrick Kelly




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PostPosted: Wed 06 Jul, 2005 9:02 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I wouldn't worry about it. It shouldn't hurt anything down there and really wouldn't be worth the trouble.
"In valor there is hope.".................. Tacitus
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Gordon Clark




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PostPosted: Wed 06 Jul, 2005 9:03 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Chad Arnow wrote:
Thomas Hoogendam wrote:
What would be an appropriate grit sandpaper??


The appropriate grit would be whatever is closest to Albion's standard finish, so it doesn't mar the finish. I'd check with them. Maybe 600 or 800? That's a guess, though.


Can you fit something like a tounge depressor or small piece of stiff cardboard in the gap? If so, you could soak it in WD-40 or oil first and then remove as much of the gunk as possible and at least get it coated with oil. You could use an emery board to remove it as well, but the finish will suffer...
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Thomas Hoogendam




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PostPosted: Wed 06 Jul, 2005 9:42 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I talked to Mike, he suggested some 600-grit paper or the scotch-brite, and something to squeeze it in. Although, like Patrick, he also said it shouldn't do any harm.

I don't really mind a spot or mark on a blade, as long as it isn't harmfull. I was afraid that if it would become a weak point in time, the blade could snape and hurt either me or someone else. If I get the change, I'll work on it tomorrow, and get try get some nice pictures too.
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Jean Thibodeau




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PostPosted: Wed 06 Jul, 2005 10:46 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

After you have cleaned up the spot just use some renaissance wax or even car wax and use a tooth pic to get the wax in deep into the space between the blade and the guard, wipe of the excess: Should keep things nice and rust free.

The renaissance wax is better because it's made to protect without risk of damaging any kind of artwork and give a durable and hard coating that will stay on even if looks as if nothing is there. The regular car wax costs less and might be almost as good for a sword but you wouldn't use it on an old painting. A lot of research went in to the renaissance wax formula to make it safe to use on precious objects with no risk of changing color or any other bad effects, the car wax may vary greatly in protection qualities, durability, and possible harm it might cause to something other than a sword.

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