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Karl Knisley




PostPosted: Tue 14 Jun, 2005 4:58 pm    Post subject: Peened pommel         Reply with quote

Hello.How do I go about removeing a penned pommel without damageing the pommel?I ran a search, but didnt come up with anything.Maybe I`am useing the wrong key words.Thanks
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Jean Thibodeau




Location: Montreal,Quebec,Canada
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PostPosted: Tue 14 Jun, 2005 5:45 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I think the word is spelled peened or the action to peen: Might help with the search.

Penned is writing with a pen.

You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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Peter Johnsson
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PostPosted: Wed 15 Jun, 2005 1:58 am    Post subject: Re: penned pommel         Reply with quote

Karl Knisley wrote:
Hello.How do I go about removeing a penned pommel without damageing the pommel?I ran a search, but didnt come up with anything.Maybe I`am useing the wrong key words.Thanks


Typically youŽll have to file away the rivet at the end of the tang. In the process you will usually mar the pommel with file marks. That is not critical as you can restore it with emery paper afterwards.
The adding of a rivet block to take the peen helps in the remounting of a peened pommel as youŽll only have to file away a part of the rivet block to work away the rivet head.

When you remount the pommel youŽll have to either forge the tang shank longer to take a new rivet, or youŽll have to shorten the grip by a few milimeters so that enough of the tang protrudes for riveting. This means youŽll have to reestablish the fit between the pommel and the tang.

How much work this takes depends on how the sword was made and fittet to begin with. If it is a sword with a round rod extension welded to the tang where the pommel sits, you will not have to do any reworking at all, just shorten the grip. On the other hand, such a construction demands an absolute tight riveting if the hilt is not to come loose, as it is only by the fore of the rivet that the hilt holds together.

Hope this helps.

Best
Peter
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Karl Knisley




PostPosted: Thu 16 Jun, 2005 3:11 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Thanks,Peter.I`ll give it a try.
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Karl Knisley




PostPosted: Mon 20 Jun, 2005 11:46 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

hello.Would tacking the tang to the pommel,with a MIG welder, then grinding the tack smooth, hurt the swords tempering?
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Aaron Schnatterly




Location: New Glarus, WI
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PostPosted: Mon 20 Jun, 2005 12:51 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Karl, are you talking about the grip-side, or the rivet-block side?

Short answer, probably not - not a ton of heat generated, and it won't travel that far down the blade. If it concerns you, you could wrap a wet rag around the tang which would act as a heat sink, which would stop the conduction of heat.

My concern, though, is to insure that everything is definitely secure if this piece is to be used in any way after the project. A bitty tack weld on the rivet block, then ground down, really would concern me as to the safety of the piece.

-Aaron Schnatterly
_______________

Fortior Qui Se Vincit
(He is stronger who conquers himself.)
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Karl Knisley




PostPosted: Mon 20 Jun, 2005 2:38 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hello.It`s on the back end of the pommel.The pommel, is like a, Del Tin.The pommel slips over the tang ,and then ,you flatten the end of the tang, onto the pommel.I was thinking a weld, instead of a spur,would be stronger.Any other sugestions would be appeiciated,Sence I do intend to be cutting with it.Thanks
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Jean Thibodeau




Location: Montreal,Quebec,Canada
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PostPosted: Mon 20 Jun, 2005 5:32 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Peening: How to do it right ???

I don't think that one takes a massive hammer and gives ONE big whack to produce the peen.

With maybe 1/8" or less of tang protruding beyond the pommel I would take a modereate weight hammer and would hit the end of the tang on the flat and slowly mushroom the end of the tang.

Once secure, I might hit the rim of the tang at an angle going around the tang until I created a domed and facetted head that I might leave as is or file and sand down to a smooth dome or down flush to the surface of the pommel, depending on what I would want it to look like. Might in that case not over do it as this filing down might remove the metal that is keeping the pommel in place.

Now, this is my suggestion / question about how to do this: We need input by people who actually KNOW if this is the right way to do this. ( Or at least one of the right ways, if other methods are also effective. )

You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
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