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Etienne Hamel




Location: Acton Vale (QC) canada
Joined: 09 Sep 2006

Posts: 427

PostPosted: Sun 21 May, 2017 8:44 am    Post subject: seax project question         Reply with quote

Hello, been a while since i last been in this forum. been on some projects for a while now (mostly customising my own sword and stuff) and i had an idea to use the remains of my old DSA squire blade (i bought it when i was 18 years old so it's almost 9 years). i used the tip on a gunstock warclub project and was thinking of using the rest as a long seax but i'm not sure about it since i have to remove the fuller first so it will make the blade at about 3-4mm thick throughout... the steel if i remember correctly is 1060 of about 52 rockwell in hardness. been carefull while working it to not ruin the temper lol.

so yeah the remains of the blade are about 24 inches of blade and the rest is the tang but i plan to take a bit of the tang and reshape the shoulders accordingly and planned to to a sandwiched handle and mask the seam with pyro carving..

will probably take a while to remove the fuller on both sides since all i have for now are files... might take a look at some sanding wheels for the angle grinder, might be better than doing it with files but i know i'll have to be more careful as to not ruin the temper...

so yeah for a steel and hardness like that would 3.5-4mm would be stiff enough for a long seax for cutting targets with it?

thanks Happy
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Etienne Hamel




Location: Acton Vale (QC) canada
Joined: 09 Sep 2006

Posts: 427

PostPosted: Sun 21 May, 2017 9:46 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

that's what i'd be starting from


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Mikko Kuusirati




Location: Finland
Joined: 16 Nov 2004
Reading list: 13 books

Posts: 945

PostPosted: Sun 21 May, 2017 11:05 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

That's only about half as thick as most seaxes. It might be better - and quite a bit easier - to just grind it a new spatulate tip and turn it into a short sword, instead.
The subtle tongue, the sophist guile, they fail when the broadswords sing;
Rush in and die, dogs -- I was a man before I was a king.
-- R. E. Howard, The Road of Kings
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Etienne Hamel




Location: Acton Vale (QC) canada
Joined: 09 Sep 2006

Posts: 427

PostPosted: Sun 21 May, 2017 12:31 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

like using a half round file and redo the fuller, add distal taper (these old blade didn't have any so it's mostly a 1/4'' thick crowbar blade... i imagine by reshaping the tip and widening the fuller it could give something but i'd still need to cut a bit at the shoulders because there are no transition and i badly cut it in the past thinking i could lenghten the tang a bit... that and the tang isn't straight... it'd truly be shorter to just grind down the center to remove the fuller and make a single or two blades out of it really...

i wasn'T sure if that thickness would have been enough for a long one or if i should make two short ones out of it....

in any case it seems that both ideas (the seax and making a short ) would involve a lot more work that it looks lol but it's either that or i throw it in the trash bin ^^'

i do see your point though Happy thanks for your answer. also i asked the same question to mark green and he said that some of his had a spine of about 4mm thick maybe 3 at the break and that it could be done, i'll have to ask more people about this to make sure so keep the pointers coming! Big Grin
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