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Radovan Geist




Location: Slovakia
Joined: 19 Aug 2010
Likes: 5 pages

Posts: 358

PostPosted: Wed 16 Dec, 2015 3:03 am    Post subject: DIY: swept-hilt rapier         Reply with quote

Iīd like to share with you another project, which I have started some months back: A swept-hilt rapier of an earlier (around 1600) form. Itīs inspired by a Spanish rapier dated to 1600 - I canīt find the photo in my computer right now, but it has to be somewhere, as I have it printed in my workshop:) So Iīll post it, when Iīd find it.
Iīm using Hanwei practical blade, as I intend to use it in free sparring. Also, Iīm planning a matching dagger.

First Iīve started to work on a hilt - guards and quillons. Theyīre made from a soft steel, 4 mm thick - thatīs picture 1.

Basic form was shaped with an angle-grinder. Picture 2 shows something which would be later one of the forward loops / rings.

The hilt will be decorated by hearts, cut through the material. Pictures 3 and 4 show the process - first drilling, then finishing by needle-files.



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Radovan Geist




Location: Slovakia
Joined: 19 Aug 2010
Likes: 5 pages

Posts: 358

PostPosted: Wed 16 Dec, 2015 3:08 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

And last two pictures, for now: other parts of the hilt roughly finished (picture 1), and the whole assembly bent to shape, ready for final adjusting, cutting, and welding (picture 2).


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Stephen Wheatley




Location: DORSET ENGLAND
Joined: 15 Nov 2008

Posts: 90

PostPosted: Thu 17 Dec, 2015 11:38 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

That'll look great Radovan, can't wait to see the progress!
Stephen Wheatley
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Radovan Geist




Location: Slovakia
Joined: 19 Aug 2010
Likes: 5 pages

Posts: 358

PostPosted: Thu 17 Dec, 2015 1:14 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Thanks Stephen:)
I will post some progress pictures hopefully after this weekend, in the meanwhile I had found my original inspiration. The piece was auctioned on Hermann Historica some time ago as a "Spanish musketeer sword" from around 1600. The original has a hollow, perforated pommel, which I would not try to replicate. I will use a full pommel; itīs also needed to counterbalance a relatively heavy Hanwei blade.



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Radovan Geist




Location: Slovakia
Joined: 19 Aug 2010
Likes: 5 pages

Posts: 358

PostPosted: Mon 21 Dec, 2015 5:14 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hereīs an update: the hilt parts have been welded together and cleaned. Also, a simple pommel has been turned on a lathe from a piece of soft steel.

In the meanwhile, I have decided to a heat blackening. All parts were heated (not having a forge, I was using our garden fire-place) to dark red and then soaked into oil. I had to repeat the process couple of times, but the result is acceptable.

The picture shows finished parts. On the left you can see twister wire, made from blackened and simple wire, which will be used on a handle.



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Stephen Wheatley




Location: DORSET ENGLAND
Joined: 15 Nov 2008

Posts: 90

PostPosted: Mon 21 Dec, 2015 6:16 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

The blued steel looks superb! I always reckon that the trickiest bit is tying the turk's head knots on the grip. Can just about do them now following the tutorials on this site! Keep posting the photos.
Stephen Wheatley
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Alex Indman




Location: NYC
Joined: 13 Sep 2012

Posts: 85

PostPosted: Mon 21 Dec, 2015 10:02 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Radovan,

Looks really impressive, I am not up to taking upon projects of such complexity yet...

How fine did you finish the steel parts before blackening them?
I am planning a simpler project (kind of a XVIc falchion) with blued mild steel furniture and wondering if it makes sense to go beyond say 220 grit. Blueing/blackening may hide finer finish anyway. And I don't really want to achieve a "black mirror" look, more like a "nice working finish" that could be expected of a period sword.

Thanks.
Alex.
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Radovan Geist




Location: Slovakia
Joined: 19 Aug 2010
Likes: 5 pages

Posts: 358

PostPosted: Mon 21 Dec, 2015 11:17 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hi Alex,
thank you. It still has many flaws, but the most important thing is to keep on trying:) For finish, I did not go beyond 180 grit. First of all, I was trying to remove scratches from grinding, I did not care much about a very fine finish. But then, Iīm intending to use this rapier for free sparring, so it will take some damage soon, anyway. My advice would be to try blackening pieces of steel with different rate of finish, and then decide.

Stephen, I will not be able to tie turkīs head knots with this wire, itīs too thick. I will have to get hold on something finer and then try. For now, I will use all-steel ferrule. Letīs see how itīd work.
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