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Jessica Finley
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Location: Topeka, Kansas
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PostPosted: Fri 28 Dec, 2012 4:34 pm    Post subject: Fühlen Designs: 16th Century Leine and Ionar         Reply with quote

Hello all -

It's rare that I get to have the joy of making garments entirely by hand, but this opportunity came up and I jumped at it.

The customer wanted a 16th century Irishman's Leine and Ionar. I have made quite a few of these over the years, and he decided that he was going to leave the details to me, beyond generally saying "Red Ionar" and "Green embroidery on the Leine". Otherwise, I had complete creative freedom with this outfit.

They are both cut as though the fabric was from a 23" loom, and were assembled using a combination of back stitches, running stitches, french seams, flat-felled seams, and seams that were tacked open, depending on the seam itself.

The Ionar is of a deep red wool twill, which I felted, and is lined in a green linen. The embroidery and construction seams are of cotton thread, as silk was prohibitively expensive for the amount of embroidery (the embroidery used up 500+ meters of thread). For the flowers in the front, I also used a metallic thread, forgoing the cost of true silver embroidery thread. The Leine is of a saffron-colored linen and is similarly constructed and embroidered with cotton thread.

This project is truly my favorite work to date, both in having creative freedom, and in working out some patterning issues that have plagued me regarding Leine construction for years.

Hope you enjoy it.
Jess



 Attachment: 144.89 KB
FrontSM.jpg
Front view of the completed outfit. NOTE: My male dress dummy is slightly larger than the customer, so it should fit him much better.

Selohaar Fechtschule, Free Scholar
http://www.selohaar.org/fechtschule

Fühlen Designs, Owner/Designer/Seamstress
http://fuhlendesigns.com
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Jessica Finley
Industry Professional



Location: Topeka, Kansas
Joined: 29 Dec 2003

Posts: 110

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PostPosted: Fri 28 Dec, 2012 4:35 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

A view of the sleeve and back.


 Attachment: 224.62 KB
LSideSM.jpg


 Attachment: 242.12 KB
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Selohaar Fechtschule, Free Scholar
http://www.selohaar.org/fechtschule

Fühlen Designs, Owner/Designer/Seamstress
http://fuhlendesigns.com
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Jessica Finley
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Location: Topeka, Kansas
Joined: 29 Dec 2003

Posts: 110

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PostPosted: Fri 28 Dec, 2012 4:36 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

A detail of the sleeves next to each other.


 Attachment: 218.82 KB
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Selohaar Fechtschule, Free Scholar
http://www.selohaar.org/fechtschule

Fühlen Designs, Owner/Designer/Seamstress
http://fuhlendesigns.com
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Jessica Finley
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Location: Topeka, Kansas
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Posts: 110

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PostPosted: Fri 28 Dec, 2012 4:37 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

A button and embroidery detail shot.


 Attachment: 101.16 KB
ButtonSM.jpg


Selohaar Fechtschule, Free Scholar
http://www.selohaar.org/fechtschule

Fühlen Designs, Owner/Designer/Seamstress
http://fuhlendesigns.com
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Mike O'Hara




Location: New Zealand
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PostPosted: Sat 29 Dec, 2012 12:47 am    Post subject: Leine and Ionar         Reply with quote

Hi Jess

A stunning piece of work, you should be very proud indeed of what you have achieved. The fit over the leine looks like all of the pictures/diagrams I have seen and the embroidery is first class.

The galloglass ( I shan't spell it properly) is the persona I am re-creating and I am having someone local make the ionar out of a tabby wool I tracked down. Yay for Lord of the Rings and the Hobbit in NZ , suddenly we do have access to some of the right materials.

I'd be very interested if a brat was ever on your radar to make for someone

Please keep up the excellent work

mike

MIke O'Hara
Location: Plimmerton, New Zealand
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Stephen Curtin




PostPosted: Sat 29 Dec, 2012 1:11 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Outstanding work Jessica, thanks for sharing with us.
Éirinn go Brách
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Scott Cross




Location: Wisconsin, USA
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PostPosted: Sun 30 Dec, 2012 5:27 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Holy Cow Jess! This is just over the top! This is one High Status Kerne with work like that on his Eonar!

Scott Cross
aka Fintan O'Breanan
Bog Kerne

Scott Cross
aka Finn O'Breanan
"...The O'Brennans, a sept of thieves without any right or title, ... were a perpetual disturbance to the peace of the county," English officials arguing in 1644 against the official return of the Brennan lands.
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Nathan Robinson
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PostPosted: Sun 30 Dec, 2012 11:18 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

This is fantastic! You don't see nearly enough products or interest for this type of thing. Very, very nicely done.
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Travis Canaday




Location: Overland Park, Kansas
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PostPosted: Sun 30 Dec, 2012 1:48 pm    Post subject: Jess kicks ass!         Reply with quote

Great work Jess. Absolutely beautiful. Letting the artist/crafts-person have more creative control will almost always end with a better product.

Happy new year and much love to you and your family. I miss you guys!

t.

Travis
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Jessica Finley
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Location: Topeka, Kansas
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PostPosted: Sun 30 Dec, 2012 2:03 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hello guys -

Stephen, the Brat is frequently triangular or perhaps semi-circular in nature. There isn't much to "make" unless I was to take up weaving on a larger scale than I currently can! Consider finding yourself a "Flokati Rug" if you can. It seems that the "Shaggy mantle' of the 16th century Irish was woven in a nearly identical manner. Of course, you could always go with a more plain woolen cloth. It's a matter of fashion! Happy

Scott, not having access to any originals that have embroidery (if, indeed, any still exist) and without any paintings that depict the versions of the Ionar that were embroidered with a floral pattern, I simply chose embroidery techniques that were used in English 16th century floral decoration for clothing. While it is possible that the Irish were up to something else entirely, I have never been able to find documentation that this is so. We're told that they "assembled" their Leines with red or green silk thread, which could point to certain shirt-making techniques that would be MUCH fancier than I used on this Leine... but it is very unclear if that's what is happening. Happy So, while I agree that not every Kern would have embroidery (many stick to the silk fringe), it is a plausible attempt. Big Grin

Nathan, thanks! I agree, there simply isn't enough interest in this time/place. I love making these things.

Travis - Thanks! I miss you too!

Jess



 Attachment: 26.57 KB
206566_399547746790375_1362756889_n.jpg
Floral example on the rear left.

Selohaar Fechtschule, Free Scholar
http://www.selohaar.org/fechtschule

Fühlen Designs, Owner/Designer/Seamstress
http://fuhlendesigns.com
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