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Christopher B Lellis




Location: Houston, Texas
Joined: 01 Dec 2012

Posts: 268

PostPosted: Sat 22 Dec, 2012 2:48 pm    Post subject: Stains on a blade from cutting vegetables         Reply with quote

After cleaning the blade with alcohol and wiping it down with CLP gun oil, if you shine a bright flashlight on it, you can see the stains, without the light they aren't very noticeable if at all.

Is there a better way to take this off? It's not a huge deal but if someone can tell me the method I would be grateful Big Grin

Also, does anyone know how to post photos from the Imac "photobooth" into these threads? If I could show you pictures maybe you could help me better. Razz
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Kevin Coleman M.




PostPosted: Sat 22 Dec, 2012 3:08 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

You know, I am not sure what happened to your blade, but it reminds me of a similar experience. I have a pattern welded knife that I'd used to cut a piece of meat, and found that the blade took a sort of case hardened look after that.
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Christopher B Lellis




Location: Houston, Texas
Joined: 01 Dec 2012

Posts: 268

PostPosted: Sat 22 Dec, 2012 3:12 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Kevin Coleman M. wrote:
You know, I am not sure what happened to your blade, but it reminds me of a similar experience. I have a pattern welded knife that I'd used to cut a piece of meat, and found that the blade took a sort of case hardened look after that.


I sliced through a couple dozen pumpkins and some type of squash, maybe the juices are acidic and acid stains steel?
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Scott Woodruff





Joined: 30 Nov 2005
Likes: 8 pages

Posts: 601

PostPosted: Sat 22 Dec, 2012 3:16 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

All of my knives made from W1 turn peacock blue and bronze (very much a casehardened look) almost immediately after cutting anything with moisture in it. A quick sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper takes care of it. What sort of finish do you have on the knife. If it is a really fine mirror finish you may have to either live with it or sand it off and re-polish.
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Christopher B Lellis




Location: Houston, Texas
Joined: 01 Dec 2012

Posts: 268

PostPosted: Sat 22 Dec, 2012 3:22 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Scott Woodruff wrote:
All of my knives made from W1 turn peacock blue and bronze (very much a casehardened look) almost immediately after cutting anything with moisture in it. A quick sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper takes care of it. What sort of finish do you have on the knife. If it is a really fine mirror finish you may have to either live with it or sand it off and re-polish.


It's not a knife it's a sword, an albion crecy.
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Mick Jarvis




Location: Australia
Joined: 18 Jul 2010

Posts: 76

PostPosted: Sat 22 Dec, 2012 3:24 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

its just the acids in the vegies or whatever you are cutting (acid in the blood of meat) staining the blade... or giving a small patina.

if you have a carbon steel knife you can use all sorts of things (vinegar, mustard, sauces, lemon juice, etc) to force this patina on the blade and it will help with it to not rust as quick...

no dramas to the knife at all, but if you don't like it you have to polish/sand it out
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Christopher B Lellis




Location: Houston, Texas
Joined: 01 Dec 2012

Posts: 268

PostPosted: Sat 22 Dec, 2012 3:27 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Mick Jarvis wrote:
its just the acids in the vegies or whatever you are cutting (acid in the blood of meat) staining the blade... or giving a small patina.

if you have a carbon steel knife you can use all sorts of things (vinegar, mustard, sauces, lemon juice, etc) to force this patina on the blade and it will help with it to not rust as quick...

no dramas to the knife at all, but if you don't like it you have to polish/sand it out


What grain sand paper should one use on an Albion sword? If you know.
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Kai Lawson




Location: Madison, WI
Joined: 26 Aug 2010
Likes: 7 pages

Posts: 482

PostPosted: Sat 22 Dec, 2012 3:29 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I had the same issue after cutting some squash and pumpkins; a qiuck pass with some scotchbrite and oil took care of it. It's not like a mirror, but the faint stains are gone and the metal still has a nice polish to it. Wiping with rubbing alcohol before the scotchbrite helped with the worst of it too
"And they crossed swords."
--William Goldman, alias S. Morgenstern
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Christopher B Lellis




Location: Houston, Texas
Joined: 01 Dec 2012

Posts: 268

PostPosted: Sat 22 Dec, 2012 3:33 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Kai Lawson wrote:
I had the same issue after cutting some squash and pumpkins; a qiuck pass with some scotchbrite and oil took care of it. It's not like a mirror, but the faint stains are gone and the metal still has a nice polish to it. Wiping with rubbing alcohol before the scotchbrite helped with the worst of it too


Scotchbrite? Is that that kitchen scrubbing stuff? Ill try that.
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Kevin Coleman M.




PostPosted: Sat 22 Dec, 2012 3:49 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Quote:
All of my knives made from W1 turn peacock blue and bronze (very much a casehardened look) almost immediately after cutting anything with moisture in it. A quick sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper takes care of it. What sort of finish do you have on the knife. If it is a really fine mirror finish you may have to either live with it or sand it off and re-polish.


Yeah, that pretty much describes it exactly. Thankfully, it's nothing that even approaches a mirror finish. I had been rather put out by the change, as I much preferred the the grays of the pattern weld.
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Scott Woodruff





Joined: 30 Nov 2005
Likes: 8 pages

Posts: 601

PostPosted: Sat 22 Dec, 2012 4:21 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Albion NG have a satin finish of somwhere between 600 and 800 grit, don't they? As long as you use an equal or finer grit than that used in the final polish it will be fine. I cut a lot, and am eternally re-sharpening and re-polishing.
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Carl W.




Location: usa
Joined: 07 Aug 2008

Posts: 158

PostPosted: Sat 22 Dec, 2012 4:37 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I think Albion uses / recommends a (very?) fine grey scotchbrite? Maybe #7448 but don't recall where I found the reference to cause me to buy some. Confirm via search here, or maybe on Albion web under maintenance?
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Scott Woodruff





Joined: 30 Nov 2005
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Posts: 601

PostPosted: Sat 22 Dec, 2012 4:57 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Link to Albion maintenance: http://www.albion-swords.com/swords/albion/sword-care.htm
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Mick Jarvis




Location: Australia
Joined: 18 Jul 2010

Posts: 76

PostPosted: Sat 22 Dec, 2012 9:13 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Christopher B Lellis wrote:
Mick Jarvis wrote:
its just the acids in the vegies or whatever you are cutting (acid in the blood of meat) staining the blade... or giving a small patina.

if you have a carbon steel knife you can use all sorts of things (vinegar, mustard, sauces, lemon juice, etc) to force this patina on the blade and it will help with it to not rust as quick...

no dramas to the knife at all, but if you don't like it you have to polish/sand it out


What grain sand paper should one use on an Albion sword? If you know.


no idea sorry mate, i have only forced this effect not removed it, and i have never touched an Albion so i aint even going there
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Matthew P. Adams




Location: Cape Cod, MA
Joined: 08 Dec 2008
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Posts: 456

PostPosted: Sun 23 Dec, 2012 8:57 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I've cleaned up my Albion Fiore a couple times, just follow the instructions on the Albion web site. Especially that bit about starting from the hilt and going in one smooth motion to the point. If you scrub back and fourth, then you change the look of the finish. I use a white scotch pad and it works fine. You'd never know I touched it.

They are close to the kitchen pads, and I would think using one of those would work, but they are talking about the kind you pick up in a hardware store.

Found a grit chart for you, the grey is 600-800 and the green is one step courser, at strait 600 grit. Hope this helps.

http://forums.hammerbowling.com/showthread.php?t=7242

"We do not rise to the level of our expectations. We fall to the level of our training" Archilochus, Greek Soldier, Poet, c. 650 BC
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Christopher B Lellis




Location: Houston, Texas
Joined: 01 Dec 2012

Posts: 268

PostPosted: Sun 23 Dec, 2012 10:13 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Matthew P. Adams wrote:
I've cleaned up my Albion Fiore a couple times, just follow the instructions on the Albion web site. Especially that bit about starting from the hilt and going in one smooth motion to the point. If you scrub back and fourth, then you change the look of the finish. I use a white scotch pad and it works fine. You'd never know I touched it.

They are close to the kitchen pads, and I would think using one of those would work, but they are talking about the kind you pick up in a hardware store.

Found a grit chart for you, the grey is 600-800 and the green is one step courser, at strait 600 grit. Hope this helps.

http://forums.hammerbowling.com/showthread.php?t=7242


Thanks.
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