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Johnson T.





Joined: 12 Aug 2012

Posts: 29

PostPosted: Tue 02 Oct, 2012 1:32 am    Post subject: How do I properly put handles on a kite?         Reply with quote

Hi guys.

I've got a kite shield which is 20" at the widest point by 45". I've done the typical arrangement seen on the Bayeux.



But see trouble is the bottom strap turns out to be exacty where the point of balance is and so when I hold the shield vertically, all the weight is on that strap and my arm.

The shield does not stay upright and straight, it falls to the side because of some distributing balance problem.

Please somebody help me figure out how to put the straps on so I don't drill holes into it which need to be filled.
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Philip Melhop




Location: Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
Joined: 24 May 2008

Posts: 126

PostPosted: Wed 03 Oct, 2012 1:52 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Can't see the picture, just the Angelfire logo.
Phil
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Johnson T.





Joined: 12 Aug 2012

Posts: 29

PostPosted: Wed 03 Oct, 2012 2:02 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

http://www.angelfire.com/wy/svenskildbiter/ar...armes.html

Philip, I have no clue why but the image was not there anymore. It was there when I made this thread but now it's the only image missing here.

The formation of straps is like this:

*-----------*
|
|
*-----------*.

Like thia but straight.
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Scott Woodruff





Joined: 30 Nov 2005
Likes: 8 pages

Posts: 601

PostPosted: Wed 03 Oct, 2012 3:13 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

There is probably nothing wrong with your shield. Almost all kite shields in the Bayeux tapestry and other period art are shown hanging at an angle. People will often make a good replica of a period artifact and find that the handling characteristics do not meet their expectations. Perhaps making a kite shield out of plywood of uniform thickness (if that is indeed the construction you used) throws off the mass distribution? Were kite shields of uniform thickness or did they taper in thickness toward the edges and bottom? I made a kite shield about 20"x48" and .25" thick of plywood with enarmes like those in your second pic and it handled very well. I simply tacked on the enarmes and subtly shifted them around till they felt right before riveting them in place. Are you familiar with using pivot points to understand mass distribution in swords? The same idea can be applied to shields. I have found that it is advantageous to have the pivot point at the top part of the enarme which your hand grasps to correspond to the pivot point at the bottom tip of the shield. This way one can easily move the top portion of the shield while leaving the lower point hovering over the knee of your forward leg.
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Philip Melhop




Location: Wokingham, Berkshire, UK
Joined: 24 May 2008

Posts: 126

PostPosted: Wed 03 Oct, 2012 5:50 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

When I was involve with re-enactment and similar activities I made and strapped a number of shields, round and flat topped kites, heaters, centre gripped rounds and enarmed rounds. To determine the best angle at which to fit the enarmes I would suspend the shield by its upper RH corner(as you wear it)and make a rough line from their to the lower point, this gives an approximate position along which to fit the enarme strapping. A little eperimentation is still needed to get it perfect, easch individual is different, so custom fitting is required. I always used crossed straps for the hand and a wide buckled strap for the forearm, sad to say I made the buckles and rivets for all this...must have had too much time on my hands Laughing Out Loud
I did experiment with the "square" enarmes shown on the early Norman shields, while quite adaptable and allowing a number of grips, I personally never quite got the hang of using them.

Phil
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