Info Favorites Register Log in
myArmoury.com Discussion Forums

Forum index Memberlist Usergroups Spotlight Topics Search
Forum Index > Makers and Manufacturers Talk > A type G hilt Viking 'short sword' Reply to topic
This is a standard topic Go to page 1, 2  Next 
Author Message
Scott Roush
Industry Professional



Location: Washburn, WI
Joined: 27 Jan 2011

Posts: 452

Feedback score: None
PostPosted: Tue 07 Aug, 2012 7:17 pm    Post subject: A type G hilt Viking 'short sword'         Reply with quote

This non-commissioned blade is a result of spending a day at a Northern Minnesota historical rendezvous where I hung out at Ben Rial's medieval camp and handled an awesome long sword he recently completed. A lovely, lively blade!!! And I also hung out with some folks that have finally started a Viking re-enactment group which is very exciting for me. So.. I came home and forged this blade today. The short blade was inspired by a great thread that somebody started here at myArmoury regarding the existence of Viking short swords and the hilt was inspired by a museum specimen posted in a different thread by Peter Johnsson. It was a Type G with 60 cm blade.

So.. here is mine... forged from low MN 1075 at 25" blade length. The hilt components are shipwreck wrought iron. I plan to to do very little grinding on these and will leave a forged and etched finish. I may yet change their relative size however. And I'm still trying to decide how I will treat the grip.

I would love to hear any feedback on how this looks so far as it is my first Viking blade and will be my first attempt at a wide fuller.




http://www.bigrockforge.com
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
David Clark





Joined: 10 Feb 2009

Posts: 129

Feedback score: None
PostPosted: Wed 08 Aug, 2012 6:46 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I think it looks very nice already, and I cannot wait to see the finished piece.
I am not too familiar with that style hilt, however. About what time is it set? I certainly seems to be a later style (just going on what I know), say 900-1000ad?
View user's profile Send private message
Scott Roush
Industry Professional



Location: Washburn, WI
Joined: 27 Jan 2011

Posts: 452

Feedback score: None
PostPosted: Wed 08 Aug, 2012 8:15 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Thank you David. Peter indicates 'late 8th to 9th century'. A very rare hilt style apparently. But I thought it fit my style very well.

More pictures later.. but I've ground the guard and pommel piece a bit thinner and will forge more curl bringing the spirals tighter to the blade.

http://www.bigrockforge.com
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Scott Roush
Industry Professional



Location: Washburn, WI
Joined: 27 Jan 2011

Posts: 452

Feedback score: None
PostPosted: Wed 08 Aug, 2012 9:43 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

So while the blade is soaking in the kiln preparing for the quench.. I'm thinking of the grip. Can anybody share opinions on this? I'm trying to decide between a simple wood grip versus a leather/cord wrap.. or .. like some of my other swords a rawhide wrap with risers. And maybe some antler or metal spacers.
http://www.bigrockforge.com
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Scott Roush
Industry Professional



Location: Washburn, WI
Joined: 27 Jan 2011

Posts: 452

Feedback score: None
PostPosted: Wed 08 Aug, 2012 5:39 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Here is the blade getting the fullers ground in...


http://www.bigrockforge.com
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Jean Thibodeau




PostPosted: Wed 08 Aug, 2012 6:20 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Starting to look good with the fuller. Big Grin Cool
You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
View user's profile Send private message
Benjamin Rial




Location: Northern Minnesota
Joined: 28 Jan 2011
Likes: 10 pages

Posts: 144

Feedback score: None
PostPosted: Wed 08 Aug, 2012 10:37 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hey lookin good there Scott! It was great to see you again and hope you can make it to fall camp in Oct.
What about leather/cord wrap with antler spacer? Or if you want some gorgeous black walnut let me know, I'll send you some.

"The only thing new in this world is the history we don't know."-Pres. Harry S. Truman

www.forgedintime.com

Vel Arte, Vel Marte
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Tyler Keich




Location: San Diego, CA
Joined: 16 Sep 2010

Posts: 32

Feedback score: None
PostPosted: Wed 08 Aug, 2012 11:10 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

This looks fantastic!
My two cents would be for an antler grip. I think that would look beautiful with this unique gem.
View user's profile Send private message
Eric W. Norenberg





Joined: 18 Jul 2008

Posts: 265

Feedback score: None
PostPosted: Thu 09 Aug, 2012 1:19 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

How about bone for the grip? Maybe with a bronze or iron ring in the center? Probably not historically correct (more a migration period form I think) but it would look great with the wrought iron fittings and the blade, assuming the blade's finish is similar to your other swords. Bone and bronze age so well with use and a bit of grunge...
View user's profile Send private message
Scott Roush
Industry Professional



Location: Washburn, WI
Joined: 27 Jan 2011

Posts: 452

Feedback score: None
PostPosted: Thu 09 Aug, 2012 4:40 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Thanks a lot for the comments and grip ideas. My intuition tells me simple wood... but bone is compelling as well. But I will wait until I've decided on finish as I'm not completely sure I will antique the blade. I get a little bored with that sometimes! I'm leaning towards a hand rubbed coarse grit finish .. I like the idea of it looking draw-filed or stone ground.
http://www.bigrockforge.com
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Paul Hansen




Location: The Netherlands
Joined: 17 Mar 2005
Likes: 5 pages

Posts: 683

Feedback score: None
PostPosted: Thu 09 Aug, 2012 3:37 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

That looks very promising!

I would also vote for a bone grip. With some nice subtle carving, perhaps? Wink
View user's profile Send private message
Scott Roush
Industry Professional



Location: Washburn, WI
Joined: 27 Jan 2011

Posts: 452

Feedback score: None
PostPosted: Thu 09 Aug, 2012 7:01 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

You guys want bone!? You got it. A 15,000 yr old bison bone. I was going to grip a Celtic blade with it but somebody made a snide remark about the Flintstones and I got all self conscious. But this time I will cut off the end. It will polish up much like fossilized walrus ivory. Just need to decide on whether or not to use some spacers.



Anyway... the heat treat went okay.. but I got more warp than usual due to heat stratification in a new top loading kiln I'm experimenting with. But it is a thin blade so I got it mostly worked out. I might need one more tempering cycle.

I'm also fighting the fullers. Quite a bit of messing around running between the flat platen and my wheel. But I'm learning a lot....






http://www.bigrockforge.com
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Scott Roush
Industry Professional



Location: Washburn, WI
Joined: 27 Jan 2011

Posts: 452

Feedback score: None
PostPosted: Fri 10 Aug, 2012 5:25 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Some more progress. The bone is cut down and the first spacer is about ready. Not sure if I will keep it shiny or patinate. I will have a similar spacer in front of the bone... but trying to decide if I will keep the same 'dimed' pattern or do some small runes.

Also... still working on the blade finish.. and still contemplating on how I will treat: coarse grit satin or antiqued.

And.. I will probably have to grind away the rest of my touchmark since it's already have gone. I hate that. Now I will have to etch it.


http://www.bigrockforge.com
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Jeremy A. Hart




Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Joined: 08 Aug 2012

Posts: 14

Feedback score: None
PostPosted: Fri 10 Aug, 2012 5:40 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

For what my humble opinion is worth, I would give the spacers (they're copper, right?) a nice even patina, as the bone is already darker naturally, and will tone up even more with just air exposure, so bright copper might look off.

Personally, the idea of a few small runes on the guard spacer might be a nice touch. I could see a Northman smith etching his name there, or a warrior marking it as his. I'd keep it as short as feasible though, that small a piece could easily look crowded with too much on it. Though, if it were done right, a full set circling it might work too... Hard to say, but I think it would add a bit to the piece to have them there.

Great look to the guard and handle overall. Compliments the bone, and looks like the blade of a warrior out on the vik rather than a jarl or king sitting idle in his hall.

‎"Eyes that fire and sword have seen / And horror in the walls of stone / Look at last on meadows green / And trees and hills they have long known."
View user's profile Send private message
Petr Florianek
Industry Professional




Joined: 01 Oct 2008

Posts: 136

Feedback score: None
PostPosted: Fri 10 Aug, 2012 10:23 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hey Scott! looks nice
you can still make your touchmark stamped on the guard
runes are nice idea
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Scott Roush
Industry Professional



Location: Washburn, WI
Joined: 27 Jan 2011

Posts: 452

Feedback score: None
PostPosted: Sat 11 Aug, 2012 5:13 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Thanks Petr...

Any votes on keeping the bone grip parallel sided as in the pic or tapering towards the pommel? I kinda like the 'blocky' look.. but wonder if it would flow more with a tapered shape. There is enough meat on the sides of the bison to do this...

http://www.bigrockforge.com
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
J.D. Crawford




Location: Toronto
Joined: 25 Dec 2006

Spotlight topics: 1
Posts: 1,582

Feedback score: 100%
(3 total ▮ 100% positive)
PostPosted: Sat 11 Aug, 2012 1:01 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Thats a pretty impressive first Viking! Will there be a block between the upper guard and peen like some original type Gs?

I vote for patina on the spacer; the shiny copper clashes with the old bone. As far as the grip goes, I don't like the current parallel look, but a uniform taper works best with hammer grip, and I think this baby is only going to work with handshake grip. You don't want your fingers sliding in this position. You might consider a wasted grip, i.e., narrow at centre but flaring about both ends, keeping it fairly flat in crossection to work with handshake grip. i think this will grip well and look good.
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Scott Roush
Industry Professional



Location: Washburn, WI
Joined: 27 Jan 2011

Posts: 452

Feedback score: None
PostPosted: Sat 11 Aug, 2012 6:02 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Thanks for the comments JD. Yeah.. I haven't shown the side profile of that grip material but it is indeed pretty shallow and flat. I will do some sketches of the wasted shape and see how it looks. Until I get the spacer behind the guard done I'm not yet quite sure how it will all look. I might even waste it and do a basic carving around the center.

Do you have any links to other Type G pictures? I only have the one I mentioned previously and it is very simple.. it only had the guard and the pommel. But I was planning a pyramidal peening block....

Hopefully some more progress tomorrow... Today I really got distracted building my electric heat treat sword kiln.

http://www.bigrockforge.com
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Jean Thibodeau




PostPosted: Sat 11 Aug, 2012 11:49 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I think I prefer leaving the bone parallel as it is to keep most of the original surface of the bone and parallel seems better to my eye with the rest of the hilt furniture: A tapering grip sort of unbalances the symmetry of the very similar in size and shape guard and pommel. Tapering would be better only if the pommel was of a very different shape than the guard: I like the " H " shape of the entire handle.

Patina on the copper.

If antiqued I would do it mildly and give it the look of a well used blade that may have had some light surface rust over decades of use but always polished back to a satiny medium coarse finish before the rust could do any deep damage: There would be traces of the pitting or where rust has been removed

You can easily give up your freedom. You have to fight hard to get it back!
View user's profile Send private message
Scott Roush
Industry Professional



Location: Washburn, WI
Joined: 27 Jan 2011

Posts: 452

Feedback score: None
PostPosted: Sun 12 Aug, 2012 5:15 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Jean... That is exactly what I was thinking last night in regards to the blade finish. I have just the method to do as you suggest..

And thanks for the input on the bone shape... I was thinkering with some sketches.... and still come back to the over-all blocky look. It reminds of a sword hilt done by Jim Hrisoulas I saw some time ago. Blocky but elegant somehow.

http://www.bigrockforge.com
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website


Display posts from previous:   
Forum Index > Makers and Manufacturers Talk > A type G hilt Viking 'short sword'
Page 1 of 2 Reply to topic
Go to page 1, 2  Next All times are GMT - 8 Hours

View previous topic :: View next topic
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum






All contents © Copyright 2003-2018 myArmoury.com — All rights reserved
Discussion forums powered by phpBB © The phpBB Group
Switch to the Basic Low-bandwidth Version of the forum