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Franga Dragos




Location: Bucharest, Romania
Joined: 07 Aug 2006

Posts: 17

PostPosted: Tue 25 Sep, 2007 8:59 pm    Post subject: New "blade" ?! how to         Reply with quote

Hi, I am new to the "bladesmithing industry" and I already have a problem : how to make this "blade" strait again whithout ruin all the work i have invested in this project, initially I was hoping to make a strait blade whith symmetrical sharped edges bun close to the end I have changed the direction of the project into a seax.
What method would be the safest ?



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Qapla' !
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Nick Winley




Location: Sydney, Australia
Joined: 13 Aug 2006
Reading list: 12 books

Posts: 44

PostPosted: Tue 25 Sep, 2007 10:32 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Hello Franga,

I had a very similar problem a little while ago - See this thread: http://www.myArmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?p...ht=#112441

There are a couple of helpful suggestions there.

As you can see I eventually left it as it was.

Nick.

"The Riddle of Steel. Yes! You know what it is, don't you boy."
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Gary A. Chelette




Location: Houston, Texas
Joined: 29 May 2007
Reading list: 2 books

Posts: 337

PostPosted: Wed 26 Sep, 2007 6:40 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I'd clean it up and leave it the way it is. It'll make a nice Seax with the curve compliments of Odin. (That's my story and you can use it. Wink )
Are you scared, Connor?
No, Cousin Dugal. I'm not!
Don't talk nonsense, man. I peed my kilt the first time I went into battle.
Oh, aye. Angus pees his kilt all the time!
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Arne Focke
Industry Professional



Location: near Munich, Germany
Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Reading list: 34 books

Posts: 204

PostPosted: Wed 26 Sep, 2007 7:07 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I hope you did not already start to sharpen it?

If not:
Heat up the whole blade to the "working temperature" of its steel. Place the back of the blade on the surface of your anvil, which is hopefully straight. Wink Now you can straighten the blade with soft blows to its future edge. If your edge is already very thin you might consider using the broad side of your hammer. This way you blows will hit on a bigger impact surface, hopefully leaving only small marks on the edge. Watch for the angle of your blows when working with the broad side of your hammer, if it does not come down stright it will leave nasty marks.

Hope this helpful to you, since i do not know how clear my English is today (been working since 3 o'clock in the morning WTF?! )

Greetings from Kiel (Germany)

Arne

So schön und inhaltsreich der Beruf eines Archäologen ist, so hart ist auch seine Arbeit, die keinen Achtstundentag kennt! (Wolfgang Kimmig in: Die Heuneburg an der oberen Donau, Stuttgart 1983)
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Dustin R. Reagan





Joined: 09 May 2006

Posts: 264

PostPosted: Wed 26 Sep, 2007 10:46 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I have read suggestions that, instead of using your usual smithing hammer, use a brass, copper, or lead "dead-blow" hammer to strike the edge. This will minimize the damage/deformation to the thinner edge of the blade. I've also read of people using wooden mallets, or even two-by-fours or baseball bats for this!
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Nick Winley




Location: Sydney, Australia
Joined: 13 Aug 2006
Reading list: 12 books

Posts: 44

PostPosted: Wed 26 Sep, 2007 2:30 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Oh and I forgot to say:

Very nice work by the way.

Cheers,

Nick.

"The Riddle of Steel. Yes! You know what it is, don't you boy."
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Arne Focke
Industry Professional



Location: near Munich, Germany
Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Reading list: 34 books

Posts: 204

PostPosted: Wed 26 Sep, 2007 5:02 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Dustin R. Reagan wrote:
I have read suggestions that, instead of using your usual smithing hammer, use a brass, copper, or lead "dead-blow" hammer to strike the edge. This will minimize the damage/deformation to the thinner edge of the blade. I've also read of people using wooden mallets, or even two-by-fours or baseball bats for this!


Using a softer Hammer, like wood, is indeed a good idea.

So schön und inhaltsreich der Beruf eines Archäologen ist, so hart ist auch seine Arbeit, die keinen Achtstundentag kennt! (Wolfgang Kimmig in: Die Heuneburg an der oberen Donau, Stuttgart 1983)
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Franga Dragos




Location: Bucharest, Romania
Joined: 07 Aug 2006

Posts: 17

PostPosted: Wed 26 Sep, 2007 9:18 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

I thank you all for your sugestions, this afternoon i will try to finish the job, hope it will be successful if not at least Odin will be happy with the result !
I will be posting pictures a soon as possible.

Qapla' !
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John Cooksey




Location: NW Ark
Joined: 15 Nov 2003

Posts: 291

PostPosted: Wed 26 Sep, 2007 10:36 pm    Post subject:         Reply with quote

Well, that looks familiar. :-)
Had an early piece turn out almost exactly like that.
Solution-----it became a ring pommel sax (lots of meat on the tang of that particular specimen)
Think the other gents might be on to the solution---"soft", broad-faced hammer to straighten.

I didn't surrender, but they took my horse and made him surrender.
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Franga Dragos




Location: Bucharest, Romania
Joined: 07 Aug 2006

Posts: 17

PostPosted: Sun 30 Sep, 2007 11:05 am    Post subject:         Reply with quote

And here is the result ..... Using only my hammer and anvil, minimal damage to the cutting edge, but nothing i can't repair, your advices were very useful, thank you.
Hope to post some pictures whith the finished seax in a couple of weeks, lack of tools and time to spare will delay my work....



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