Paul Chen SH2250 Bastard Sword
Has anyone bought or handled one of these swords? If so, is it really as light as the ads say it is (2 lbs 9 oz)? I really like its lines and the patinated finish, and I'm thinking about ordering one, but I can't believe the weight can be right, given its size (50") and the fact that it isn't a custom weapon.
I owned one for a short time but was one short in a sale so it went with the others. There were about 8 of them I saw and they all seemed very well weighted in one hand or two to me. I like them. I got the viking and knightly one but have not gotten the hand and a half again yet. I stopped selling a while back and just have not gotten around to getting one. I never did major sparring with it but for practice drills it worked fine.

RPM
http://www.casiberia.com/product_details.asp?id=SH2250

This one, yes?

I've handled one and I didn't care for it. It isn't heavy, but the mass distribution causes all the weight to be in the blade, and it is very sluggish. I'm actually a little surprised, as Hanwei normally makes swords that feel much better than this (or else they do the exact opposite and make the balance point too close to the hand). It just feels bad when you pick it up, and I imagine that it will sell poorly because of this.
That's the one. Thanks for the heads up-much better than finding out the hard way :cool:
I just received one of the antiqued versions of this sword. I can second Bill's impressions. The point of balance is between 7.75 and 8 inches on the 38.75 inch blade. This sword would definitely benefit form 1-2 more ounces in the pommel.
8 inches-ouch. Thanks for the info, everyone! :)
I was thinking of another one It seems (that will teach me to double check the number codes). I stopped selling CAS before that one came out (not because I did not like them but I just did not have the time to). I like the look of some of the new sharps.

This is hte one I like. http://www.casiberia.com/product_details.asp?id=SH2106 perhaps an alternative?

RPM
...........
So Mike , can you tell me ( or anyone in this topic ) if the sword can be used in cutting test ? . Like cardboards tubes or plastic bottles .-- because I was thinking in buy one of these swords , specially the antiqued version .

And someone can tell me something for the two handed sword of Cold Steel? ?? like how works in cutting test?? , is it the tang strong? ...

Well that's all , I hope you can tell me ..
Re: ...........
Julian Arellano wrote:
So Mike , can you tell me ( or anyone in this topic ) if the sword can be used in cutting test ? . Like cardboards tubes or plastic bottles .-- because I was thinking in buy one of these swords , specially the antiqued version .

And someone can tell me something for the two handed sword of Cold Steel? ?? like how works in cutting test?? , is it the tang strong? ...

Well that's all , I hope you can tell me ..

Julian,

This sword comes sharp. It is a bit shy of "paper cutting sharp" but just about right for a sword of this size. I would describe it as handling a bit sluggishly, but with all its blade presence it cuts pretty well. I tested it on plastic soda bottles and Swordfodder Master Targets. I thought it might be a challenge to get the blade up to speed for cutting. But so far that hasn't been a problem. I am happy with the way it cuts. So much so, that I've started taking measurements to determine what pommel size and shape will be required to bring the point of balance back to 5 or 6 inches where I want it. Given that this sword sells for about $155 on the internet, I think it's worth trying to improve as a DIY project.

In the subject of the Cold Steel sword, are you asking about their Great Sword or the Hand-and-a-Half? If the later, I have one of those as well. And I can't recommend it at all. The pommel is threaded and screwed onto a welded piece of quarter inch all-thread rod. Mine broke immediately.

The blade is very sharp and hard, with a good degree of temper so I decided to try and "improve" it. I disassembled the sword, milled the shoulder for the guard an inch forward, recontoured the tang to fit the wood core grip, milled down the rear portion of the tang, threaded it to fit the pommel and reassembled.

Then the first time I cut with it, the tang snapped during a bottle cut (on video) and left me holding the sword in one hand, the pommel in the other, and a big stupid look of disappointment on my face. I am still angly that the Cold Steel folks would take such a well made blade and assemble with such a terrible hilt design. When I get over it, I will probably remill the rear of the tang again and make a single hand sword of it. It appears that it will probably stand up to single hand use.
..........
Thanks Mike , I decide buy the bastard sword .just for some lights cuts and the price it's OK . .... and for the second question .. It's the Great sword one who looks like a Landsknecht sword ..with lungs ... but thanks for your two cents about the Hand-and-a-Half sword believe it help me a lot .
So If you know some info about the Great sword of Cold Steel ..tell me ,, Thanks for your reply!!! .
Sorry Julian. I don't have any experience with the great sword from Cold Steel.

But as for the Paul Chen Bastard sword, I think you will find that it's a durable sword. I put it through my standard and fairly brutal "tire pell test" which involves landing in excess of 100 hard strikes against tire pell surfaces at all possible angles of attack. This sword showed quite a bit of vibration when landing blows far away from the forward node of vibration (center of percussion). But the hilt components and blade have showed no signs of loosening or weakening. I have been pleased with the durability of this sword under the limited amount of hard use I've put it to.
I have a sh2250 and the balance point was definitively too far from the quillon. We had to change the pommel and handle to have its balance point reduced at 4 inches from the quillon.
The pommel is really too light because it is a crapy hollowed made one :P
But after the modifications I an saw that it is a great sword. The blade is of high quality steel. I tested it during many and many fighting demos and during renactment fighting.
I had forgotten about ?all? of the Paul Chen/Hanwei medieval European swords having hollow pommels. Thank you for pointing that out. This elevates the building of a new pommel on my priority list.
Mike,

most of the paul chen swords do not have hollow pommels. The W. Marshall and the hand and a half do not, the practicle one either. I have not examined the other new ones though. It is disappointing that they did that with this one as well. The lowlander is like that as well...... I complained and they said they would look into changing it in later ones..... not the change I was talking about. That is annoying. I found a really cool iron door nob and redid the lowlander with it. Works great. It took a bit of drilling and grinding but made it a much better a sword. I wish they would stop making hollow pommels it is a terribly dumb design.

RPM
When I hilted my Del Tin blade, I used a Hanwei Hand and a Half pommel. It was indeed solid and if I remember right it weighed someting like 13 ounces all by itself. It turned out to be the perfect choice, balance-wise. Maybe something like that would be a good swap-?
It also might be cool to make a mold and cast it in bronze-that way you could fit it to the tang more easily. Weight would be close enough between the two materials for balance purposes, I'm guessing
Thanks for all the input. I am taking it all under consideration.

As I have access to a machine shop and raw matrials, I'm thinking of lathe-turning a mild steel disc pommel similar to the pommel on the Arms&Armor Henry V sword. I plan on shortening the grip by about 1/2-inch to get enough tang to peen.

I'm considering machining a recess in the center of each side of the new pommel to press-fit and glue a coin of some kind, after fire antiquing the pommel to match the guard. I've taken the weight and measurements. I need a pommel that's exactly 4 ounces heavier than the one that's there now.

Any suggestions on an appropriate "something" to fit to each side of the pommel would be appreciated. Alternately, I may machine something like a cross into the flat sides of the pommel if I change my mind on the recesses.

In any event, suggestions are certainly welcome.

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